She's 41 yr. old - safe at speed?

[Keoke]

There is no real point in diving into turns or really pushing these antiques. Reality is your Camry probably can out handle your Healey in most situations.

There are a bunch of Healeys still out on the racetrack. Their drivers may disagree with you. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif

Naw Greg, them fellas be dare /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/devilgrin.gif--------------Keoke- /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif

 

[Keoke]

Yeah Tinster, but chu got one of them funny cars might even be haunted, need to take it and have it blessed, or just give it a long rest.-----Keoke- /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif

 

[Randy Harris]

There are many people who drive cars much older than 41 years, and often at much higher speeds than the manufacturers ever imagined. Just go to any VSCC or similar meeting in the UK to see what I mean.
It all depends on how well the vehicle is inspected and maintained, and how well it's been treated throughout its life. A POS rustbucket that's been restored may well not have the chassis integrity it once had, nor might a sad neglected car. On the other hand, I don't see why you can't drive a well-cared-for example at least as quickly as when it was new.

Of course this is very true, there are many cars driven regularly that are far older than our Healeys. But I would pose the same question to their owners as I do to my fellow Healey Forum members.

Perhaps it's nothing more than healthy middle-aged paranoia, but I have to believe that these old cars aren't as safe as they were decades ago simply because of the metalurgy and methods used in their construction. I mean, I don't think for a minute that Donald Healey or Sir William (I also have a 40 yr old E-type) ever envisioned us tooling around in these cars at 80 mph some 40-50 years after their manufacture. Because of this I'm always on guard when I'm driving my cars and pay particular attention to maintenance checks as mentioned in an earlier post here. But I'll still drive'm fast because that's what I enjoy doing and that's what they seem to like too :>) However, I'll not stress the suspension or frames by taking the cars to their handling limits.
Randy

 

[Deleted member 3577]

Check the stop & turn stuff (suspension & brakes)

You can pull over and fix anything else.

Find out what breaks on your car's suspension...Then replace those items.
(Uprights,Stub axles ,A Arms,Pivot bolts....Whatever...Every type of car has its weak link)

I use aircraft grade "AN" bolts with castellated nuts & cotter pins for most suspension attachment points.
(40 years ago, metallurgy was not what it is today)

Upgrade your brakes with some new pad material.
(Yes...Modern technology will improve the performance of your old cars brakes remarkably)

Get some nice tires like Toyo Proxy RA-1's
If your tires are more than 5 years old....You're kidding yourself.
Throw em away....Even if they have full tread.

Then torque your lugs and put her to the floor.

I usually take it out to a nice parking lot and slide it around some after suspension work /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/driving.gif /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/jester.gif

 

[Johnny]

/bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/driving.gif Yeah Randy I think everyone has had the same feeling just after restoring their cars. It'll pass with time. Keep your eyes, ears and nose open and just enjoy it.

 

[bighly]

Two weeks ago I put my car up on a lift and did a very careful inspection and found a weak spot in the frame rear outrigger. Curiously it was only the one spot but it was close enough to the rear spring mount to put me into action. I immedieatly cut the area out, replaced the inner frame supports and butt welded a new cap on the area. I do this inspection at least once a year keeping a note of any thing that seems fatigued. In previous years I replaced both front shock tower caps, front rail caps and one A arm rear support. This is on a car that had been previously restored. I suppose eventually the Jule and Kilmartin frames will look more and more inviting for restorations where the car will actually be driven. By the way I put 2500 miles on it in the past few weeks getting to and from rendezvous.

 

[glemon]

What's that noise made some real good points, the defensive driving stuff applies to all vehicles and drivers of course, although we are vertainly more expsed in our Healeys than most vehicles.

Manybad things could happen but certainly loosing a wheel or control of the car is the worst. Most of us have done a little to a lot of work on brakes, they are regular maintenance items.

If you are really worried about it you could get hubs and front stub axles magnafluxed or otherwise inspected by a qualified machinist or engineer--they have been known tobreak and metal can fatigue and crack over time.

As stated make sure your suspension is all bolted down tight with quality hardware.

The one thing I am surprised I have not seen mentioned is the tire blowout, if a tubed tire as most wire wheels are, goes it usually loses air quite fast, and I have had this happen to me a couple of times on the highway. And a flat front will pull on your steering quite a bit.

Inspect the tires regularly and make sure the wire wheels are in good shape, in my case the problem was loose spokes (they chafe you know).

 

[bob hughes]

I am afraid I give the old girl a bit of stick now and again, and I drive the car fast as well ! Mostly in a straight line, but I am aware of the age so do not subject the parts to tight turns etc. I was in very high double figures when a chunk of an exhaust valve vaporised, I am now within days of starting her up again following major restoration of the head and surrounding bits in the engine bay. I doubt that I will be holding back, but I will be taking things carefully untill confidence is re-installed.
One thing that I do find is that I keep well back from other cars at high speeds due to the efficiency of the older brakes and my reaction times.

Bob

 

[healeynut]

Randy -

In general a well maintained BJ8 should be quite safe.

I'd say the BN1 I have is definitely more finicky, esp. the rear hubs which two have failed on me in the last five years. Luckily I have caught the failure before losing all four bolts. I'm in the process of designing/machining a new improved rear hub for BN1s... when that's on it'll be much safer for driving like a madman.

Personally I think the biggest danger in the healey is a rear ender a'la '58 LeMans.

With the complete rollback of safety standards in the US in the 1980s, bumper heights on SUVs keep soaring to new heights - maybe looks cool to the owner but pretty much guarantees decapitation and death if they ever hit anyone not in an SUV. I would not want that responsibility on my shoulders that's why I would insist on having a cage on the front of my SUV if I bought one... out of courtesy to the guy I'm about to kill in front of me.

So, the trick here is to not look in front of you, but to always look behind you. Always pull over when people tailgate. Always look to the rear and make sure someone is not bearing down on you. Pull over or change lanes if this happens... or speed up.

I really don't like driving either healey on the Freeway in California, and thankfully my dad lives in Napa Valley so when I do drive my BN1 it's usually in windy country roads @ 45 mph which is the old lady's sweet spot.

Of course here in Hong Kong it is only windy mountain roads and seaside runs, nothing much over 40 mph, so really a delight to drive the BJ8 here. I don't feel much danger here (knock on BJ8 knurled bookmatched walnut dashboard!).

Cheers!

 

[AH100M]

I'd be interested in your redesigned BN1 rear hub. I had one fail on me - luckily I was going very slowly when the wheel fell off!

Would you consider having maybe a limited run of the hubs made for sale?

 

[Dave Russell]

If you are not a fanatic about originality, converting to the slightly later rear axle assembly is a simple way to end weak hub, axle, & gear problems.

Even late BN1's had the improved axle assembly. The five stud axle assemblies are very strong & trouble free. It is a fairly common conversion, & a large improvement in strength, reliability, & possibly safety.
D

 

[kcbugeye1275]

I just found your post on the recent post box and it is into the 4th page, but what I'm seeing everyone say is that if you have one of these cars, you have to care, mantain and when you get behind the wheel, take it for a drive. This means listening for that odd noise, and finding aand resolving each issue as it presents itself. In our modern cars, we just get in them and end up whereever we happen to be going, it is a completely different experience. Believe me, in a bugeye, defensive driving is the only way to go, but it really is fun to have an old car that has been cared for and mantained that you can drive and enjoy at all speeds.

 

[Cutlass]

There can be little debate about the safety of these wonderful automobiles. Even assuming mechanical perfection, they simply are not as safe as a modern vehicle in a collision. Given that, we cannot drive them in every way the same way we drive cars with collapsable steering columns, crumple zones, air bags, etc. We need the extra measure of defensive driving necessary to avoid completely those who are not careful. And make no mistake, they are out there right now, and will be there every time we drive.

 

[healeynut]

If you are not a fanatic about originality, converting to the slightly later rear axle assembly is a simple way to end weak hub, axle, & gear problems.

Even late BN1's had the improved axle assembly. The five stud axle assemblies are very strong & trouble free. It is a fairly common conversion, & a large improvement in strength, reliability, & possibly safety.
D

Dave -

Downside of the later axle is it weighs quite a bit more. The early BN1 I have is an absolute delight to drive - one of the main reasons it is so is because it weighs so little. So despite the finicky early gearbox and early axle, these things do weigh much less than the later (better) gearboxes and axles. Get all this stuff working correctly and, well, it's a dream!

 

[healeynut]

I'd be interested in your redesigned BN1 rear hub. I had one fail on me - luckily I was going very slowly when the wheel fell off!

Would you consider having maybe a limited run of the hubs made for sale?

Bill -

It is my plan to make a limited run. I have the prototype which needs a bit of improvement first, however. Since the 100S uses the same axle, I know that anyone racing or using those with regularity will need my conversion. From the outside it will all look and work like stock. Frankly with this improvment the sprial bevel axle will be as good as the 5 stud axle - and will be cheaper and easier than making a full conversion over to the 5 stud axle.

 

[AJAX50]

I've just experienced a major problem with new parts reliability. My front near side wheel bearing was showing signs of wear, it was last replaced about 8 or 9 years ago. The parts were obtained from one of the largest UK suppliers and fitted by a very experienced professional restorer who has always looked after the car. Driving home the outer bearing seized suddenly after about 20 miles. Quite a shocking experience. It damaged the stub-axel. The bearing quite clearly had not been hardened, it is currently being analysed by a metallurgist. The bearing was marked made in China. Surprisingly the supplier was not interested or concerned; he said it had not happened before!
You can be as careful as possible, but if the new parts quality control is poor then we are really exposed. I would welcome some better information on quality systems for new parts, we don't want to simply buy on price we need reputable assurances of the manufacturing standards used, just like a major car company would.

 

[Keoke]

Well Ole Chap. My advice; is to go to a known bearing manufacturer there in the UK and match your bearings up with known high quality vendors. Most bearings used are of a standard configuration and can be sourced this way.-Fwiw-- /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cheers.gif-Keoke

 

[healeynut]

Made in China bearings - I would definitely stay away from that!!

There are plenty very high quality bearings made in the US, UK, Japan and Korea made for our cars. And because of the low labor content in their manufacture, there should be little or no price competitive advantage from the Chinese. As such anyone providing Chinese Bearings for our use should be taken out back and shot!