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Sheared bolt advice

Julian, if you got it to turn at all before it failed you may get lucky and be able to un-do it from the inside after you remove the second nut. It may simply wind right out!
 
The sheared bolt is removed! I could get access via the wheel well to the other side, and simply put a new nut on, tightened it against the other nut, then wound the whole thing out.

Thanks for all the advice, and again to PB Blaster, which as far as I am concerned is a life saver.

Wow, I sound like a PB Blaster commercial!
 
/bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/lol.gif


...all this fuss over a li'l ol' bolt... /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smirk.gif
 
Yeh, maybe I should give these problems at least a day of my own solution attempts before I post here and waste everyone's time /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif
 
Julian,
Not a waste of time as I'm always picking up tips thru issues and explanations of others.
It's great when you learn a technique in advance of needing it so post away.
I was kinda hoping it was still stuck as I'd just found my extra 1/4 Lb. block of C4. Demolition is an art form.
 
jjbunn said:
Yeh, maybe I should give these problems at least a day of my own solution attempts before I post here and waste everyone's time /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif

RUBBISH!! This is now in the ether as a set of possible solutions for that ONE bolt! Mostly to notify any and all that it has a nut on the underside. ALL GOOD my friend!
 
Pro'lly a good thing, innit? /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/jester.gif
 
jjbunn said:
The sheared bolt is removed! I could get access via the wheel well to the other side, and simply put a new nut on, tightened it against the other nut, then wound the whole thing out.

Thanks for all the advice, and again to PB Blaster, which as far as I am concerned is a life saver.

Wow, I sound like a PB Blaster commercial!

And just in time, too, because I was gonna say that
maybe you could buy a reciprocating saw; cut the fender
off; take it to a machine shop and have them drill it out
fer ya.....wait....I wasn't done;
then buy a cheap welding set; read from Wiley's Welding,
Class 101 (out of print but can be found on the net
somewhere), review chapter 2 with special attention
to Figs 1.6 through 4.8; come back to the shop; reweld
what you cut off --- wait, I ain't done....

Then, reviewing sections 6.9 of Top Coaters Guild catalog --and get the Green version only, cause the blue one
really sucks... they took out the side photos... and
then repaint and your done. No sweat. I did this thing
last year when......
.....
...
 
2wrench said:
jjbunn said:
The sheared bolt is removed! I could get access via the wheel well to the other side, and simply put a new nut on, tightened it against the other nut, then wound the whole thing out.

Thanks for all the advice, and again to PB Blaster, which as far as I am concerned is a life saver.

Wow, I sound like a PB Blaster commercial!

And just in time, too, because I was gonna say that
maybe you could buy a reciprocating saw; cut the fender
off; take it to a machine shop and have them drill it out
fer ya.....wait....I wasn't done;
then buy a cheap welding set; read from Wiley's Welding,
Class 101 (out of print but can be found on the net
somewhere), review chapter 2 with special attention
to Figs 1.6 through 4.8; come back to the shop; reweld
what you cut off --- wait, I ain't done....

Then, reviewing sections 6.9 of Top Coaters Guild catalog --and get the Green version only, cause the blue one
really sucks... they took out the side photos... and
then repaint and your done. No sweat. I did this thing
last year when......
.....
...

/bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/lol.gif

And I suppose I would have to re-sleeve all the reciprocating fulcrum bushings with burnished brass rollers (sintered to Clough hardness, naturally), attach new thrust washers to the pinion slave while maintaining constant tension on the sun gear carrier so preventing it from fouling the grommets in the pin bearings on the vacuum nozzle's flange, which would cause a loss of fluid through the plenum chamber orifice?

Sounds like a piece of cake.
 
Julian, you have the proper procedure, expect for one little detail, but this shouldn't be a problem. All this has to be done in a vacuum, so, you know what that means? You will have to book a flight on the space shuttle, to do the work in a vacuum in outer space. I understand there may be a waiting list.
 
Good thing me Wellies are close to hand! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smirk.gif
 
jjbunn said:
And I suppose I would have to re-sleeve all the reciprocating fulcrum bushings with burnished brass rollers (sintered to Clough hardness, naturally), attach new thrust washers to the pinion slave while maintaining constant tension on the sun gear carrier so preventing it from fouling the grommets in the pin bearings on the vacuum nozzle's flange, which would cause a loss of fluid through the plenum chamber orifice?

Don't forget the 8-inch Gangly wrench.... (with apologies to Steve Martin),
 
Bugeye58 said:
Julian, just be thankful you don't have to change the lower grunnion banjos! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif
Jeff

My wife occasionally looks over my shoulder as I'm looking at the Haynes manual or the Moss site, and reckons that we have some superb words for parts. She's particularly fond of "grunnion", "grommet" and "bushings" /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif
 
TR3driver said:

OOohhh... Finally! The long-awaited FOUR pin version. The old three pin ones seem'd not to hand the ECM a proper data stream. Glad they've sorted it.
 
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