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Thanks for the tips. One thing about the TR3 and TR4 engine is that there is no dynamic timing spec. Only the static, so setting it with a timing light it a no go. Unless I make a degree wheel and use the advice Dave gave me about the high RPM timing.
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That's correct. And every reference I've seen regarding timing for the TR3/4 engine suggests that you fine tune it on the road after setting the timing statically.
Timing by ear simply eliminates the sometimes tedious first step of getting the timing close. When I do mine, I set the idle to about 1500 rpm and rotate the distributor until I get maximum rpm. I then retard it slightly until I get a 100 rpm drop and then take it out for a test drive. If it pings under heavy acceleration in high gear, I retard it a little more. If it doesn't, I advance it until I do get a ping when I accelerate in high gear, then retard it a little - just like the Haynes manual suggests to do following the static timing procedure.
The optimum timing will vary based on several factors (fuel grade, engine wear, etc.), and therefore will likely differ from the specified setting. Whether you time by ear or using the static method, it's important to fine tune it on the road.