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Seriously considering midget dip strip

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RaserX

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I talked with a local company today. Their process promises no metal removal or weakening.
They want 700 to dip strip and treat ( not ecoat) with washable metal prep. As I want to make a nice dependable (read long lived) resto project. Im thinking take it down to bare metal and weld up all weak/ rotted spots with patches or repair panels. Since it would be my first true resto, I have no experience with this kind of process. Of course the company says it's the best thing since sliced bread. But, I am always a little skeptical.

So here are my questions:
1. How effective is chemical stripping at removing ( converting rust)?

2. Leave door on and latched for strength?

3. Is the washable rust inhibitor easily removed? Says just wash off.

4. Is 700 bucks a reasonable price?

Any input positive or negative appreciated...I know it's my choice just looking for input
 
So ... how are you going to recoat all the hidden cavities?
 
If I could have had my car stripped at one time for $700 I would have probably paid that.

I don't think there are too many hidden spots that were originally painted? He could use one of the wands for the waxol kind of product to spray in some sort of paint for the sills?

I don't know much about the process, but I wouldn't think the stripping process would do much to the rust. I used Aircraft stripper on my car and it removed paint and bondo.
 
I'm at the point of having mine either dipped or blasted and I have a really good blaster/painter. The dipping process intrigues me because it gets into all the nooks and crannies and removes the rust that hides there. I've read on several forums about the pros and cons of both, but I never see responses from people who have actually had their own cars dipped with bad results. I spoke with a couple of members of the MS English Motoring Club and they have a dipper in their own back yard and an Ecoater as well. The people I talked to spoke highly of the process and none had experienced paint issues later on. The dip/Ecoat process costs more than blasting and painting, but does a more 'complete' job. This is the same plant that Ecoats Nissan cars and trucks built there. Can someone enlighten me with first hand knowledge of either good or bad results using this type of caustic system?
Thanks, Rut
 
I think others will recount horror stories of the car going in the tank only to have very little of it emerge. Frank Clarici, the master of all things Spridget who restored last count I think close to 70 Spridgets never dipped them. Angle Grinder and a Flapper sanding wheel can strip a fender down to bare metal in just a few minutes and you've get control over what happens.

Let's talk Saturday the 4th at the show. If your tub is really that bad perhaps you should think about a better tub. I think I may know someone else who might have a hood. I'll continue my inquiries.
 
Hey John Kuzman, any Spridget hoods/bonnets in your stash? Most of your spares are BE's but I did help you part out that '68 but I think that hood was long gone to the tinworm.
 
Thanks bugsy,
Tub. Not that bad. Just looking to the long haul. Would hate to spend that
Much time fixing and painting (which I enjoy). Just to have to do it over again. Looks like my cars has usual spots pin holes in floor need out rockers small pin holes in quarters and fenders. Cowl and truck look real good.
Still
I have nothin to compare it too... Lol see ya soon
 
I soda blasted most of the car, sand blasted the rust off and replaced parts as required. Then POR coated as much as possible. Did the bottom and wheel wells in a spray on truck bed liner (lots of masking required). Very happy with the results and believe it will last generations.....but time will tell.
 
Couple friends of mine have dipped quite a few Sunbeam tubs. On the plus side all corrosion is gone and it's nice clean metal. On the minus side, it does not convert rust, rather it dissolves it away so be prepared for possibly more areas of repair than you might have though. You can leave doors, hoods, etc on, but be prepared for the stripping agent to possibly pool in them if there's no drainage between inner and outer skins. I personally would strip all those parts separately and build up angle iron door braces if you suspect the lower tub might be weak.

Also, no brass, alloy or other non steel bits left on the tub, the solution will most likely eat them. $700 is a good price, I believe they're paying over $1K here in Ohio.

A dip is a good start when when you plan to do a complete restoration and want to leave zero rust. But if you're plans don't extend that far or the car is a good clean example already, it may be overkill.
 
Some years back when I was bringing Bugsy back to life the light bulb clicked on and I realized, these cars will continue to rust. We are doing our best to slow down that process but they will continue to rust. They were designed to be disposable low cost cars and the fact that we are still doing everything we can to keep them running is a tribute to our ingenuity and the Internet. In spite of our efforts these cars will continue to rust.

I decided against the expensive paint job and as a member of the "We Tight" Club opted for Rustoleum BRG applied with a foam roller. I've got < $50 in paint and materials in Bugsy and when the rust inevitably comes back from some new spot I never spotted before, well a fresh $8.95 can of Rustoleum Hunter Green, some Mineral Spirits, and a 6 pack of 4" Foam rollers and I'm back in business in short order. Google Rustoleum Paint Job and you'll see the results.

I'm from the keep it simple and get out and drive school. I do want Bugsy to last a long time but fixing is not nearly as much fun as driving. YMMV and other's opinions do as well on this subject.
 
Jim_Gruber said:
I decided against the expensive paint job and as a member of the "We Tight".

I'm from the keep it simple and get out and drive school. I do want Bugsy to last a long time but fixing is not nearly as much fun as driving.
Click to expand...


:thumbsup:
 
This is a '70 Midget that I stripped with the help of a friend. It took the two of us (I'm guessing) 25 hours working at a leisurely pace, and I spent about $300 in paint stripper,gloves,pads,brushes etc. Still would have had to sand-blast the front rails.
No big deal. I'd do it again to the right car, under the right circumstances...

If I had a running, driving car or one that's close to that, my preference would be to do as little as you need to in order to enjoy the thing at least for a season or two. Get used to it, get to really know it before you commit stripping it all the way. The memory of driving the car will help motivate you during the resto.

They get much more difficult to sell when they are all stripped out and in boxes. That's my experience anyway...

And...I haven't forgotten about the dashboard pics, I just haven't made it over to my friends house yet. :cheers:
 

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Agree on the motivation and learning to love the car before dumping a ton of $ into it. There are a ton of Project Cars out there started with good intentions and never finished. I've got a slight hill real close to my house that includes a sharp right and then a downhill turning left. I love having a minivan or pickup or some sort of vehicle trying to crawl up my but as I go pedal to the floor and as they approach the turn I'm up to 45 and get to 55+mph coming out of the downhill to the left before I lift. When I get out of the two turns they are usually many hundreds of feet behind me. I just never need to let off of the gas.It's doing that on a regular basis that continues to reinforce why I love driving this Little British Car.
 
Jim -

That '68 Sprite that we stripped a few years ago was so far gone, it may have even made Frank think twice! It had absolutely no floors, no sills, and the hood /bonnet was shot. The only body panels salvaged were the right front fender (Mark got that) and the trunk/boot lid (I still have that if anyone needs one). When we lifted it to put it on the trailer for the scrap yard, it folded in half.

I just wanted the drive train/front suspension for my '60 Bugeye project.

See you on the 4th at the Dayton show.
 
Thanks John, my other lead Mike Maloney in Tipp City does not have any hoods/bonnets.

I had a complete Front Clip with Fenders, hood, and valence up till about 6 months ago that I could not find a taker for for almost 4 years. Sold to 2 brothers from Ft. Wayne for $200.00

OK RaserX one other lead to try. Call Steve Miller at MG Automotive in Kettering and ask if he has any bonnets left in his boneyard for a Spridget. I've exhausted all of my sources other than E-Bay or CL.
 
Bugsy I'll give him a call. Can't hurt.

As for building the midge , there is no way I won't finish it. Mainly because my 7 year old daughter is very persistent and persuasive. That said, I want it to. A long lived vehicle and don't mind the work. I already have a budget Set up so I'm good there. It's amazing how much you can save doing the majority of the work your self. The only thing I would farm out is the diP/strip were I to go that route.

It's a tough call.... To strip or not to strip ... That is the question

Flap wheel would be cheaPer by far. But, it wouldn't address the hard to reach areas. Of course the
Shorty of the hard to reach areas have exposed themselves ( ER.. Rusted). Still weighing my options here....
 
After rebuilding the front end last year with major suspension kit and getting new bushings installed the difference in handling is AMAZING!!!Now to convince the wife I need stickier tires that are not rock hard and 10 Y.O. Get out and drive.
 
Btw. That stripped body looks great.

Bugsy, local micheal tire says $27 a piece for stock prime well tires for the midget. They not yokhamas, but at that price.... Shred all you want... Lol
 
Hey give Steve Miller at MG Automotive a call re. bonnet.Google for the number. In Kettering on Far Hills Ave. A local MG Repair Ship <5 miles from my house.
 
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