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TR6 Serious Thrust Washers for TR6

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Brosky

Brosky

Great Pumpkin
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Thanks to my friend Tom in Madison, I was able to track down Scott Helms and obtain some "virgin" thrust washers from his inventory. I say that, as these are in the uncut and unpolished to size condition.

I spoke to Bob at Mason Machine and he and I decided that the best way to do mine, since it was out and we were starting from scratch, was to get these whole and Bob will set them up as a complete unit before machining the block/cap 360 degrees. After fitting to the exact size needed to fill a predetermined machined pocket in the block and cap, Bob will cut and polish these down, if needed, to a given size to allow for the proper movement of the crankshaft. I'll then have Scott cut and polish a matching set to Bob's sizes and I'll have a complete spare set, should I ever need them in the future.

I'm hoping that with the light aluminum flywheel, line boring and complete balancing, most of the bad things that can ADD to these going bad, will be gone.

Scott's site is back up and he has inventory available for those who may be needing these in one form or another.

https://www.britishcarweek.org/tr6.html
 
Tom,

I delivered them to Bob this morning. I realized that if I pin them both in, I have to pull the engine and then the crank to replace them, unless we just pin the bearing cap. Bob wasn't sure he was comfortable with our pinning of both original idea, so we're still thinking about it.

I'm sure that he'll come up with something.

On a good note, my block was sitting next to the cooker and will be going in by tonight. After that, the machining will start, so he's on schedule as promised.
 
I was thinking pinning, until I read the complete post.

If the tops are installed also, then there should be no need for pinning as where are they going to go? I would just recommend lanolin or something similar on assembly.
 
On the TRactor motors, the upper half of the thrust washers are just floating free. They are held in position by the bottom washer which has a tang on it that keeps it located in the bottom bearing cap. Like Ron says, where is it going to go?
 
Bob's going to pin the bottoms and the tops will be held in place as stated above.

I dropped the last of the brass freeze plugs off this afternoon. Getting closer every day. All new internal engine parts due in by the end of the week.

Machining of the block starts next Monday. The crank is being done as I type this. Engine machine work & balancing complete by the end of the week. Assembly starts the following week.
 
Shannon,

I stopped in today to drop of the plugs and Bob was balancing a crankshaft for a super looking Chevy small block that will be a very high rev engine. Just watching the meticulous work that a racing machinist can do is fascinating to me. Especially when the guy is a perfectionist.

I am starting to get really enthused at this point.
 
Interesting story: When I was younger my dad and I were at a local engine shop back home. It was no secret that this guy built a lot of race engines. He happened to be working on a Chevy Bowtie block this day. He said that the owner ran it in a street legal old Nova in Atlanta, GA and that the guy street raced for living. Power output you ask? 750hp without boost.
 
Shannon,

You have to fix your URL at the bottom of the threads. It's doubled.
 
You mean you're not going to tap the wholes and go with large allen plugs?????
 
Ron,

I'm not sure that I understand your question. Tap what holes and use large allen plugs for what? I never liked the look of the countersunk screws in the thrust washers because of the potential for wear on the crank surfaces, should something go wrong and the washer wears down. I think that we'll be using a small diameter pin.

If you meant the two lead plugs in the block that will screw up a shop's cooker tank, yes, those are out and will be tapped and allen plugged.
 
the "trick" thing for the engine builders is tapping the orifices that the Welch plugs(brass freeze plugs) go into the block and insert large allen plugs. Most hot rod shops carry a kit of universal replacement plugs..

There have been times when I have had to replace rotting freeze plugs when I sorely wished that they would just unscrew from the block.
 
I've been out of the loop on this new machine shop stuff too long. However, the plugs are not installed yet and I can still ask to have this done. The plugs at the back of the head would be much better if they were screw plugs.

Change #267-A = $$$$$

It never ends........
 
if you tap and screw allen plugs in the block where freeze plugs go doesnt that mean if your block freezes the plugs wont pop out and you crack your block???
 
Not really. They are actually "core plugs" - The holes are used to clean out the casting sand when the block is made. Folks call them "freeze" plugs because they "sometimes" pop out if the coolant freezes. They won't reliably protect a block from freeze damage.
D
 
Dave knows that I'm showing my age. Technically, they are now called "expansion plugs", but for the same reason that Dave explained above.

A better name would be "Rust-Out Plugs", since I have replaced everyone one that leaked, not because of freezing, but because it rusted out and leaked.

That's why I try to use brass when available.
 
Now that you mention it, I looked all over creation for brass disc type plugs, not cup, in small quantities. Where do you find them?

The only thing I found were the complete brass plug kits for American iron. None were the sizes that I needed for the Brit car.
D
 
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