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SEM High Build Primer - can use directly on metal

tdskip

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Or do you need an etching primer first? The panel in question has been dipped. Anyone know?

The Tech Data sheet on it isn't clear.

21-MLOcWI6L._SL500_AA280_.jpg
 
If he doesn't see this and reply on his own... PM Hondo (Hondo402000). Remember, he was dealing with primer issues recently and I believe he mentioned the SEM primer in one of his recent threads.
 
If you have the proper equipment for painting, look into Rust Defender building primer. It is a high quality etching/building/sealing primer. I have no personal interests in the product, only that it works very well. I have gotten feedback from a couple customers who turn out phenomenal paint jobs that swear by it. It is compatible with most topcoats.
Google Rust Defender if you want to learn more about it.

SEMS is a quality product, but I would be concerned topcoating it with an automotive quality paint. Rust Defender, because of the positive results by the experts, I would trust using with other brand paints. All others I would be leery about.
 
Re: SEM High Build Primer - can use directly on me

The GT6 I just did was undercoated with SEM high build primer, and it makes first time painters look good because it fills in a multitude of scratches. It comes in three colors,Rose(dark red) Black, and Beige. Being a woodworker, the art of finish sanding was not a problem, the build was sufficient so you could address imperfections without sanding through the primer.The advantage to using this is not loading, and then having to clean your paint gun.
 
I had very good result with Valspar's high build epoxy primer.
 
Stick with one system. No mix and match. Dupont, PPG, Sherwin Williams etc. Its going to cost $$$ but thats the proper way to go. I would not use ANY rattle can product if its going to be topcoated with a activated paint and or clear. Bob
 
The acid test for any primer you might use is reverse-ability,if thinner will re dissolve it, its trash,dont use it.!!!! Many of the fizz bomb primers claim to self etch, if you believe all that bull,I have some swamp land your gonna LOVE.At the end of the day you will get what you pay for only if you know what your trying to buy.And are not afraid to pay for quality.
MD(mad dog)
 
Curious what Valspar primer do you use? I haven't had great luck with their sealer but I like the 200MS clear coat.I haven't had great luck with the VP40 or VP50 they are so thick and have seen drying problems in 90 deg areas on metal cars,my old neighbor had many issues. I recently sprayed Vp 50 it was too cold and it didn't dry correctly so I had to sand off 2/3 of a car,a first for me and a hard lesson to learn. So I sprayed a ready mix Marhyde etch and then to my high build Marhyde primer...I miss my old Dp40...the new Deq friendly sealers are a bummer!
 
2 thoughts about trying to decide if a primer can go directly on bare metal without reading their P sheet. 1. spray directly on a bare metal spot 2-3 light coats let flash between coats. Let dry overnight, take duct tape lay it atop primer and grab a corner and yank it off, if the primer stays on without a whimper so far so good. 2. sand the primer and watch for a smooth feather edge where the primer meets the metal , if while sanding it comes of jagged or does not feather 100 percent perfect in any way, remove primer. You are looking for 100 percent adhesion.
 
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