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My TR3 has sat for a very long time, the rear brakes are seized bad!
Any TR specific tricks to getting the drums off? They don't turn at all and it's quite the mess at the backing plate so I can't tell if there's a star wheel adjuster?
Thanks for any suggestions!
There is a special square wrench for the adjuster that will help prevent you from rounding the corners of the adjuster. The adjuster may be frozen in place.
Had to get the rear drum off a friends TR3B and I managed that by hammering on the drum but it is hard to get a good swing at most of the drum.
A large gear puller may work.
The 5/16 square drive wrench is really a good tool to have for this. I was able to use a 8pt socket but intend on getting the wrench with my next Moss order.
Thanks guys, I'll have a look for that adjuster and I should order that wrench. I'm not a big fan of these square bolts. Couldn't get the oil plug out either.
I'll check the brake lines too but I'm pretty sure rust fusion is the main issue.
And lastly if you are not familiar with these brakes there are two screws on the front (outside facing) of each drum. Those hold the drum onto the axle.
Worst case you will need to bust the tin backing plate free (probably with chisels and whatever---- it is a 3 pieces system of tin) on the wheel cylinder to break the adjust free to move and to buy you some space for the shoes to move into and free the drum.
Some times problems can only be dealt with a bigger hammer. A good hit on each may let the springs move the shoes. In any case it will be tight at best.
If you try to loosen the adjuster with the square fitting be aware that as that square fitting begins to turn it also EXPANDS the "pegs" inside the wheel cylinder until it has gotten over the first ramp of the adjuster making the drum all the tighter.
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