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TR2/3/3A Securing the front fender beads

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R

RC64

Jedi Hopeful
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I'm in the process of reinstalling the apron and I have a question about securing the front fender bead. The bead has tabs that fit down in the gap between the fender and valance. I was assuming that the gap could be closed tight enough to hold the tabs in place. On the left side that has been the case. However, on the right side the fender and valance don't want to come together tight enough to grip the tabs in place. I'm reluctant to tighten the bolts with too much force so that the nuts spin in the cage.

I'm wonder what the 'standard practice' is for this process. I saw and old (trashed) bead where the tabs had been bent so I've considered setting the bead in place and bending the tab around the edge on the valance. The gap is narrow enough so the bead would fit ok to cover the gap. Any suggestions one way or another on this?

Rick...
 
Yes, secure them with the tabs close to the bolts. Make sure the beads fit and are fastened with screws along the bonnet seam. It's easier if you are re-installing original beads. Some of the new ones require a bit if work to get to lay true.
Tom
 
I had the same problem getting the beads to sit tight on my TR4. I installed the beads, tightened up the bolts, and THEN reached up in the fenders and bent the tabs over. I had my wife helping to be sure the beads were positioned correctly before I bent the tabs.
 
I know this may sound like heresy, but on my TR3, I fastened the beading to the outer wings with pop rivets. It makes apron installation and removal much easier. I've had my apron off twice since the resto was finished. By loosing up the screws along the the upper section of where the outer wings attach to the inner wings, you can spread the wings out way more then you need to remove the apron while clearing the attached beads.

IMG_0640B.jpg
 
The long flange in the engine compartment may need to be cut with tin snips in several places to allow the bead to lay flat against the edge of the fender.
Bob
 
Tom, et al... I don't have to mess with the aft section of the bead since it has already been pop riveted to the wing. I would have to remove the apron again if I were to try the 'heresy' approach with the pop rivets on the single tabs. I think I'll try bending the tabs with the bead firmly in place after the wing is as tight as I can get it and the bolts are secure. The gap is only from zero to under 1/8 so it won't be visible under the bead. I sure don't want to force it and spin a nut in the cage. Rick...
 
What is the consensus on reusing vs. replacing the fender beads? (What is the quality of the replacement beading vs. original?)

My original beading is in good shape (shiny, a few minor dents), but some of the tabs are rusty. I can't seem to find the tabs sold as single pieces from the usual parts suppliers. If I reuse the original beading I will likely have to do something custom, along the lines of what Art mentioned above.

Is it better to just replace?
 
Mike...

I went with the new fender beads all around from Moss. They look great and I have no complaints with the quality.

Rick...
 
Popeye said:
What is the consensus on reusing vs. replacing the fender beads? (What is the quality of the replacement beading vs. original?)

My original beading is in good shape (shiny, a few minor dents), but some of the tabs are rusty. I can't seem to find the tabs sold as single pieces from the usual parts suppliers. If I reuse the original beading I will likely have to do something custom, along the lines of what Art mentioned above.

Is it better to just replace?
Click to expand...

It all depends on how good your old ones are. I re-used all of my original beading. It is all in great shape (despite being from a car almost 60 years old) with the exception of one of the front beads has a very tiny dent in it about 2 1/2" from the bottom. If I ran with front bumpers, you might not see it. Actually, if you didn't know where to look, you might not find it.
 
Problem I've had with new beading is the curve of the long tab, it does not match fender. I've cut the tab so I can bend to match. Don't like the way it looks. I reuse original tab when I have one available
Marv
 
Marvin Gruber said:
Problem I've had with new beading is the curve of the long tab, it does not match fender. I've cut the tab so I can bend to match. Don't like the way it looks. I reuse original tab when I have one available
Marv
Click to expand...
My Eastwood shrinker/ stretcher works well for that. HF and others carry them too. Tom
 
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