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Seat Recovering

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Bruce74B

Jedi Knight
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A couple of years ago I read up on replacing my worn, torn, and oversprayed seat vinyl with leather and bought new leather on Ebay, which came with no instructions. Yesterday, after the groundhogs unamiously predicted 6 more weeks of winter, I decided to pull the seats out of Dolly Clementine and removed the vinyl from the back of one seat and got the rusted rake adjusting latch freed up. SO far so good. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Now I would like to read some information again on how to do this properly...does anyone know of some good info on refurbishig the seats, specificly, how to replace the seat coverings and how to keep the rake adjuster from binding with rust again? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif

Bruce /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
 
Bruce, I'm having my seats done. But, what I did on my frames is to use a wire brush in my drill to remove the loose rust. Then I used a rust remover (gel) and just followed the directions. I then primed,painted and placed a small amount of grease on the moving parts. It's not hard, just time consuming. luck to ya /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif
 
I have never bought anything from VB and have no account there, so I guess they ignored my request for the info...I have asked twice about a year ago via email.

I did get one seat to move...after a little (OK, a lot) of WD40, wiggling, pounding with a BFH, and some cursing, I got a big pry bar between the base and the back and lifted the seat back far enough to separate the teeth of the cog that locks the rake in place. There is a little window in the frame on the inside back frame where you can see the cog. Now I have to figure out how to grease it without taking everything apart. I don't think I want to mess with a total rebuild and all that glue.

Bruce /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
 
This is straight from the Doc--P B BLASTER!!!!!! Let it sit for a while then wiggle things back and forth, put on more. It really works--WD is not the answer.

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/lol.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/lol.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/lol.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/lol.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/lol.gif
 
lookie who learns fast! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

speaking of which, I think I need to go find me some-o-dat PB Blaster stuff...
 
"Weasel P*ss"!!! Best loose juice goin'. Other things can work in a pinch, but I'd brush me choppers wif PB if'n it weren't toxic! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/jester.gif
 
I have jpgs of the VB instructions, but they're written for a TR.
 
One more thing, Bruce. You might see if you can get one of those ratcheting box-end wrenches on all the bolt heads on each seat. I was able to do so even though my seats were frozen like yours. If you can get even one or two clicks on that wrench, it will beat the dog manure out of beating on it and it will be out sooner than waiting for PB Blaster to work, then you can clean it up on the bench. Lots of "if's" /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/lol.gif

I have a two page B&W instruction manual from Moss I can send Email if you like.

Guinn


Oh, Yeh. Do the passenger seat first so you can still tool around while you work on it.

Guinn
 
I second the vote for the ratcheting box-end wrenches. Bought myself some for christams last year from sears! They're great for everthing (almost). Especially if the item in question only alows a minimum degrees of movement - like several of the bolts/nuts on our LBC's!
 
Oh yea...I have the seat out and on the workbench...that was no problem, as I replaced the carpet just two years ago and had them out then. A ratchet wrench was very handy for that. and a word to the wise...remove the front bolts first...if you loosen the rear ones and can't remove them completely, they block the seat from moving back enough to get to the front bolts /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif

I have the cover off the back (anyone want a decent cover for a passenger seat...the driver's seat has a tear in it) and reached under the cardboard seatback to get to the rake mechanism. I am just wondering how to get the dang grease onto the parts (and which parts?) to keep it from freezing up again. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif

Bruce /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
 
Third vote for Gearwrench combi-wrenches. Best things since sliced bread! They are my first "go-to" wrenches now, even before sockets.

If you want a bigger set, www.thetoolwarehouse.net sells larger sets than typically sold at Sears or other retailers.

I'm also a PB Blaster convert. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif Great stuff!
 
[ QUOTE ]
I am just wondering how to get the dang grease onto the parts (and which parts?) to keep it from freezing up again. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

White Lithium spray?
 
antisieze compound?
 
Gawsh, NO, Kenny. That stuff gets everywhere. Just a touch of that stuff and you will be wiping it off EVERYTHING!!!

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devilgrin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devilgrin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devilgrin.gif
 
WHOA Bruce!!! AntiSeize is your FRIEND!!!! Learn to love it.
 
Yeah, it's not grease... A little goes a long way!
 
Then again... I've been thinking WD-40 is a "Water Displacement" formula Not sure how long one application of that surrouded by foam and vinyl would last though.

I'd think the best thing overall would be strip the seat to the frame, strip the rust off the frame, paint the frame (or powdercoat?), apply just a smidgen of antisieze to the joints, and reassemble! But then again - when I do something, I like to do it right (even if my version of right is a little overengineered).
 
Call it "Planning" Kenny. You are likely to be the NEXT guy to have to disassemble it, so why not make the job EASY.

If it has threads, put AntiSeize on 'em!
 
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