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Having trouble trying to get the correct outer most axle seals (what moss is calling a hub seal) for the solid axle on my TR4. My original, including the metal casing that presses into the hub, measures 19/32 thick according to my caliper or reading a regular ruler is about 9/16. Moss is out of stock on those so I'm not sure how thick their seals are but NPNW told me theirs are about 5/16. I've not seen any shims associated with those so I'm assuming all the vendors have replacements that are pretty much the same. For anyone who has used those replacement seals, does that 1/4" make any difference since it presses in??
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TR4/4A Seals on TR4 Solid Rear Axle
- Thread starter Dash
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TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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Seems like there must be some mistake. I just checked a TR3A bearing housing (which is the same P/N as TR4 and certainly looks identical), the cavity for the seal is only .300" deep. The seal I knocked out measures .310", so it stood a bit proud. And I'm fairly certain it's the original seal (P/N 58801, also same as TR4).
Are you sure you aren't looking at the axle seal (58800) instead? The hub seal can only be accessed by removing the hub from the axle, and doesn't actually touch the axle at all. It seals the bearing housing to the hub (hence "hub seal").
PS, the seal thickness isn't critical anyway, the thinner seal would probably work fine. I just think you're looking at the wrong part, which won't work fine
Are you sure you aren't looking at the axle seal (58800) instead? The hub seal can only be accessed by removing the hub from the axle, and doesn't actually touch the axle at all. It seals the bearing housing to the hub (hence "hub seal").
PS, the seal thickness isn't critical anyway, the thinner seal would probably work fine. I just think you're looking at the wrong part, which won't work fine
CJD
Yoda
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I've often run into aftermarket seals that are different "thicknesses" than the originals. Unfortunately, with Standard out of business, everything we buy is aftermarket.
Assuming, like Randall says, that you have seals for the correct ID and OD, then the thickness should not be an issue. The important thing is that, if the seal is thinner than original, it must be installed perfectly straight, i.e not "cocked" in the seal bore. I usually study the hub sealing surface for any wear or grooves, and choose the best location for the seal. If you want it deep, then just tap it in against the bore notch. If you want it out sightly, use a flat plate to tap the seal so it is only in as far as the outer edge of the bore, but still straight.
Assuming, like Randall says, that you have seals for the correct ID and OD, then the thickness should not be an issue. The important thing is that, if the seal is thinner than original, it must be installed perfectly straight, i.e not "cocked" in the seal bore. I usually study the hub sealing surface for any wear or grooves, and choose the best location for the seal. If you want it deep, then just tap it in against the bore notch. If you want it out sightly, use a flat plate to tap the seal so it is only in as far as the outer edge of the bore, but still straight.
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Let's say the seals are now nicely tapped into place. When you slide the axles back in are you supposed to lubricate anything? Grease up the shafts? I think not since they are splined at the end, and any lubrication would be at the differential end, correct?
Why did a read a warning about not tearing the seal upon axle installation? Is it that tricky?
Finally, to avoid tapping the seal in backward, what is the rule on seals? Lip protrusion (convex) toward the oil?
Why did a read a warning about not tearing the seal upon axle installation? Is it that tricky?
Finally, to avoid tapping the seal in backward, what is the rule on seals? Lip protrusion (convex) toward the oil?
TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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I definitely lube both the lips of the seal, and the shaft where it rubs the seal. Just a little, no need to grease up the whole shaft.
Modern seals I think are less prone to damage than originals, but it's still a good idea to support the shaft as it goes through the seal (rather than letting the weight rest on the seal), and to not bang the splined end against the seal.
Lips go towards the oil.
Modern seals I think are less prone to damage than originals, but it's still a good idea to support the shaft as it goes through the seal (rather than letting the weight rest on the seal), and to not bang the splined end against the seal.
Lips go towards the oil.
Randall was spot on. I was after the wrong seal..I'm fortunate to be within 3 miles of the restoration shop that sanblasted the chassis and since they picked it up with the rear end still mounted I asked them to go ahead and inspect the differential and , at the very least, replace the seals. Since I was already putting an order together from Moss I said I would get them and let me know what they needed. Well the mechanic told the office that he had everything except a pinion seal but the office somehow translated that to axle seal(s) and called me so that's what I ordered. I had picked up the old seal (just in case) so when the new seals arrived I could compare. Well obviously they didn't match and not having ever torn down a differential before to know better, spent the next 3 days going crazy on a snipe hunt trying to match axle seals to the size of a pinion seal. I was convinced I was the proud owner of a mutant differential.. Finally went back to the shop and spoke directly with the mechanic to see what the options were and that's when I learned where the snipe was hiding..
Guess I learned a lesson out of all that. Maybe one of these days I'll find out what it was..
Guess I learned a lesson out of all that. Maybe one of these days I'll find out what it was..