• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

TR2/3/3A sealing body seams?

Share this page

G

gecoughenour

Member
Bronze
Country flag
Offline
Is it a good idea to seal body panel seams? I have some 3M Strip Calk [sic] I used on bulkhead panels. Should that also be used on body panel seams, or is it better to leave "dry"? Or is there something better altogether?

Glenn
 
gecoughenour said:
Is it a good idea to seal body panel seams? I have some 3M Strip Calk [sic] I used on bulkhead panels. Should that also be used on body panel seams, or is it better to leave "dry"? Or is there something better altogether?

Glenn
Click to expand...
Hi Glen
I think all spot welded seams would benefit from sealing so that water cannot get in and cause future rust. I used UPOL Tiger Seal which was inexpensive and easy to apply. It needed an hour or two to cure before painted, but worked great. There are more expensive catalyzed two-part sealers but that was more hassle than it was worth, for my needs on my TR3. I sealed the entire underside of my car tub. Also sealed the engine compartment panels, wheel wells, and trunk compartment. Just use it like caulk on wood trim on your home. Smear it on and paint.

Good luck

Pat

https://www.amazon.com/U-Pol-Products-0729-Adhesive-Sealant/dp/B003TQGI7Q
 
Thanks Pat. I should have been more clear with my question. I was asking about the bolt-together seams between the wings and body shell when assembling after painting, where the stainless steel beading goes. Do you recommend Strip Calk or similar there?

Glenn
 
The apron ,front fenders and bonnet all have to be able to move and be adjusted for best fit.I just bolted my painted panels on .
Tom
 
Nothing used between the panels originally and would be a nightmare to get them apart if seam sealer was used there.
 
Jerry said:
Nothing used between the panels originally and would be a nightmare to get them apart if seam sealer was used there.
Click to expand...
My car, TS73117, which I purchased in 1964 (and I know that the body panels had never been removed) had seam sealer under all the bolt on panels. It also had seam sealer spread on top of all of the spot welded panels. The 3M "strip calk" aka "dumdum" and similar sealers will not glue the panels together but it dos do an excellent job of sealing. I would most certainly use it.
Tom
 
Just one data point. I think that it would have been more difficult to fit my fenders if I had used the dumdum material. They were difficult enough to to line up without having to worry about trying to squeeze the sealer in our out, as you try and carefully line up the fender. Maybe if your car has never been in an accident, this would be easier. For me, with front and rear fender (and rear valance) damage, it was pretty difficult to get all lined up. Getting the beading in there would just be that much more challenging too. I can say that I don't notice any issues with getting water in between panels (though I don't drive in the rain) and I don't have any squeaks and rattles from that area - but plenty from under the dash and from that big flat vibrating bonnet....

Pat
 
bobhustead said:
I have done two tr3s and found no sealer, caulk, or the like in the seams on disassembly.
Bob
Click to expand...

Bob,
If you disassembled two original TR3s that had no seam sealer, 1. They were not original, 2. They were built on a Friday, or 3. the seam sealer fell out with the rust.
Tom
 
Glenn,
I used the 3M Strip-Calk when I reattached the fenders (wings) on my Tr4.
I used it because it resembled the material that was there when I removed them from the car. It was easy to use and removal of one the front fenders latter (for replacement of a dented bead) was not problematic.

For additional info Sections 5•301 thru 5•307 of the Tr4 Workshop manual has details of how the factory applied sealing compounds to the fenders (wings) and other removable panels, grommets, etc.

M.
 
Leave the fenders dry for lining stuff up, there are a lot of areas around the inner fenders where I would fix and or replace with seam sealer.. I have seen the dum dum stuff and what appears to be tar or some kind of asphalt emulsion.
 
I have dismantled a couple dozen or more TRs. Seen just a little sealer but for most part all were justed bolted together. I have built at least a dozen grd up TRs and have not used any sealer with fenders. Far as I know the cars are going well.

Marv
 
Think about it this way.-----The fender seams with the beads get water from the top and possibly the bottom. So water would be trapped from the top if sealer is used. For me 4 TR's and NO SEALER found.
Charley
 
Back
Top