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Scuttle Shake solutions, necessary?

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Rich,
Well I can't say if I <span style="font-style: italic">would not </span>have scuttle shake if I didn't add the additional bracing noted in your url link. But, FWIW I did do the additional bracing as described on that url and as can be seen on my project paper and I <span style="font-style: italic">do not have any cowl shake</span>.

https://www.stevesaustinhealey.com/...suspension-upgrades&catid=2:projects&Itemid=3

While you have it stripped why not do it? It doesn't take long... and while your at it I'd add some strengthening to a few other places as well, i.e. motor mounts, rear shock mounts, etc.

Cheers,
Steve
https://stevesaustinhealey.com
 
I have absolutely no scuttle shake with the addition of this

goodbyescuttleshake.jpg


It was also useful to hang the new steering column off!
 
Steve,
Thanks for the input. I might as well add the scuttle shake strengthening while it's easy. I saw the adjustable front shock mounts you added and was wondering your thoughts as to if it's worth doing that. My existing mounts are in perfect condition and I'd have to cut them off and weld adjustable ones on. I want my car to be a driver with an occasional racetrack run if the bug hits. Thoughts?
rich
 
Rich,
I did post on your question on another BCF thread, but let me add a bit here. Mine were made in Australia before all the current versions came on the market... very high qualtiy. Mine look just like the Kilmartin (Moss) version with adjusting nuts on both sides... I suspect a copy of what I have. Interestingly, Kilmartin is also located in Australia... hhmmm. It appears the AH Spares version doesn't have the adjusting bolts on both sides. These aren't just to look cool, they allow careful dialing in of the front end (with the AH Spares version you will <span style="font-style: italic">try</span> to slide just a bit to move them the desired amount). While the eccentric bushings are clearly the way to go if someone's car is together, IMHO, the camber adjustment plates provide a longer term (the bushings will go out of adjustment as they wear)... even permanent fix for the unadjustable original settings. If it's all apart, nows a great time to make a permenant improvement to your chassis... years from now you'll be glad you did.

FWIW, I've been told by a couple of VERY experienced LBC builders that mine is the best Healey they've ever driven.

Cheers,
Steve
https://stevesaustinhealey.com
 
HealeyPassion said:
FWIW, I've been told by a couple of VERY experienced LBC builders that mine is <span style="font-weight: bold">the best Healey they've ever driven</span>.

Cheers,
Steve
https://stevesaustinhealey.com
Click to expand...
Well heck, now that you've gone and said <span style="font-style: italic">that</span>, <span style="text-decoration: underline">I</span> think you should invite us all over for a BBQ and a DRIVE!

:cheers:

The BBQ is asking too much?
 
Randy Forbes said:
Well heck, now that you've gone and said <span style="font-style: italic">that</span>, <span style="text-decoration: underline">I</span> think you should invite us all over for a BBQ and a DRIVE!

:cheers:

The BBQ is asking too much?
Click to expand...

I'll second that! :cheers:
 
Well guys I can't think of anything I'd rather do!... and I'd be happy to let you drive it. Failing a BBQ, if you come to the Colorado Conclave next year you are more than welcome to take a drive in it. In fact, I may (hopefully) make it to the Rendezous next year, and you are also welcome to drive it there if I make it. Given all that, I'm not saying your cars don't drive as well as mine. I know Randy has tons of mods that I'm sure make it a super driving car. Very possibly the only cars the LBC guys have driven are original cars... and I think we'll all admit there is a bit of room for improvement on the originals... no disrespect intended. And, yes, I am very happy with how my car is handling. It may not be a BMW, but it's a very competent road car.

Cheers,
Steve
 
The question of schuttle shake has come up many times over the years. Personally, I do not think it has anything to do with a lack of rigidity around the front bulkhead that would require any additional angle iron bracing.
There is an old adage that if you feel the shake in the steering wheel, it is the front wheels that are out of balance. If you feel it in your butt, then it is the rear wheels that are out of balance. I suspect if your schuttle is shaking your butt is too - only a bit less noticeable because the schuttle shake is what is getting your attention, and your butt is pretty low in the chassis.
In the 70s and 80s I always went to an alignment shop here in Portland that had a portable balancing device that rolled up to the car and spun the rear wheels as they were in place - still on the car. This was a common problem back in those days and these guys knew what the problem was. That always eliminated the vibration in the chassis that I was experiencing. If you ever removed one of the rear wheels though, you had to be careful to put it back on exactly as it came off, otherwise you had to have it rebalanced. I also know that little trick from personal experience.
The rear brake drums on a Healey (and some other cars from that era) are notoriously out of balance. I would consider balancing the drums first before welding in any additional angle iron bracing in the front bulkhead.
 
No offense taken Randy! :cheers: But the offer still stands... on the drive.
grin.gif


Honestly, the best Healey I have ever driven is Martin Jansen's personal car (Martin owns Jules Enterprises the makers of the replacement frames, among other things)... with his Jules frame with rack & pinion steering, it really felt quite amazing!

But, I'm happy with mine.

Cheers,
Steve
 
Someone on this sight, a number of years ago, suggested lining the valve stems with the MOWAG (spelling ?) emblem on the rear drums and I have been doing it ever since.
 
On my BN4 I have found that I don't get any shake just driving, unless I hit a significant bump. All of the pieces front and rear are balanced, but that doesn't help if one of them takes a bounce. So you might want to consider the condition of your roads.
 
I had a "scuttle shake" on my '65 BJ8 for a few years that only occur at 55mph, not 50 or 60. I was advised that I needed to gusset the chassis. I didn't want to brake out the torch on my restored beauty so I lived with. When upgrading my brake system years later I replacement the stock rear drums with a pair of DWR vented and balanced ones. https://www.bighealey.co.uk/content/ventilated-drums Car stops great and no scuttle shake at any speed now.
 
dougie said:
I had a "scuttle shake" on my '65 BJ8 for a few years that only occur at 55mph, not 50 or 60. I was advised that I needed to gusset the chassis. I didn't want to brake out the torch on my restored beauty so I lived with. When upgrading my brake system years later I replacement the stock rear drum and had with a pair of DWR vented and balanced ones. https://www.bighealey.co.uk/content/ventilated-drums Car stops great and no scuttle shake at any speed now.
Click to expand...
Several years ago I installed new front wires and tires on my BJ8 and my scuttle shake was still there. It was not until I installed new rear wires and tires did I notice a significant decrease in the scuttle shake.

I installed new tires on my used wires and had Hendrix do the work including truing the tires and balancing and when I got them back for a test drive almost all of the scuttle shake was gone. After having Hendrix balance my rear drums a few months later the scuttle shake was gone!
Patrick
 
I also had scuttle shake on my 65 BJ8. Having the brake drums balanced by Hendrix made a tremendous improvement. I was surprised at how much metal they added to the drums.
 
So what would be the problem to just take the stock drums and machine the outer casting round and concentric? I might have to try the next time my drums are off the car.
 
fordtrucks4ever said:
So what would be the problem to just take the stock drums and machine the outer casting round and concentric? I might have to try the next time my drums are off the car.
Click to expand...

That makes assumptions:
1. That the holes are perfectly centered
2. The casting is uniform thickness throughout

Just because it is round, doesn't mean the density is right. Imagine a round tire with huge block letters on the side. Balance is mass not dimension. And, I'm not sure I would want to remove metal from a brake drum. Better to add metal to achieve balance.
 
Andy65 said:
fordtrucks4ever said:
So what would be the problem to just take the stock drums and machine the outer casting round and concentric? I might have to try the next time my drums are off the car.
Click to expand...

That makes assumptions:
1. That the holes are perfectly centered
2. The casting is uniform thickness throughout

Just because it is round, doesn't mean the density is right. Imagine a round tire with huge block letters on the side. Balance is mass not dimension. And, I'm not sure I would want to remove metal from a brake drum. Better to add metal to achieve balance.
Click to expand...
When Henrix balanced my drums they had to add metal to a couple of areas to acheive balance. It worked! Car runs smooooooooth!
Patrick
 
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