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Scuttle shake finally sorted

We solved the scuttle shake over 30 years ago when we built a replacement chassis for the Austin Healey. Scuttle shake is caused by structural failure. Ray is correct there is a difference between unbalanced wheels and true scuttle shake. Over the years I have heard people try multiple things such as shaving tires, welding pieces to the chassis, angle iron in transmission tunnel area, heavier metal thickness on the inner sills and a multitude of other things but none of these are a true and lasting fix. We have replaced over 600 chassis' and not one of them has scuttle shake so I think we have proven our point. A car must have structural integrity to move smoothly. I realize when balancing components will assist in a smoother ride but this is not a resolution to scuttle shake.
Martin Jansen Jule Enterprises
 
My 100 didn't suffer from excessive scuttle shake but some years ago, when I fitted new 'Dunlop' 60 spoke wheels (made in India) and Michelin XZX tyres my wife immediately remarked on how much smoother the ride was.
 
Hi All,

I have found it difficult to find servicers that know and can balance wheels and drums and have heard many glowing comments about Hendrix Wire Wheel. However, since knowledgeable local servicers are disappearing with rapidity, a while back, I decided to experiment with a fixture that could be used to have my rear elements balanced using locally available standard dynamic spin balancers. Additionally, since it would be difficult to apply standard commonly-available weights to balance drums alone, my thought was to balance both drum and wheel as a unit and, therefore, apply a small mark on both to key the alignment of drum and wheel when installing on my Healey.

The fixture allows bolting drum and an old rear hub to a flat base plate, if the balancer supports that type of mounting, or a large cone on the in-side and small cone on the outer side of the balancer's bar. The drum would be bolted onto an old wheel hub with the wheel held on the hub with an old spinner that has an appropriately sized hole drilled in it to allow the balancer bar pass through. A small cone would be placed on the bar to center the outer side of the fixture and tightened down in the standard manor. This combination would then be balanced with all necessary weights placed on the wheel. Although this had been successful for me, the wheel must be indexed to the drum as balanced and mounted that way. Additionally, I had inappropriately assumption that the common balance would allow a fixture to be mounted on a flat plate or have a:

1. Long enough mounting pipe.
2. Small mounting cone for centering the loaded fixture through the hole drilled within the Healey spinner.

Wheel Balancing Fixture.jpg

As always, any suggestions on improving this fixture or modifying the approach, would be appreciated.

Ray(64BJ8P1)
 
Last edited:
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