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Scrap Deal: Delta Jointer/Saw

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Picture threw me off as far as the table saw size... Looks smaller than a 10" to me. I can tell you this: I have a 6" short-bed jointer with a 3/4hp 1725 motor that works fine. I just checked and my main jointer, a Powermatic 6" long bed is 1hp, 3450rpm. My table saw is a 1970's Powermatic model 66 with a 3hp motor. So.... It all depends on what you're going to cut with the table-saw. If you're going to rip hardwood with the blade all the way up, more power is better. If you're going to rip/crosscut 3/4" stock, you don't need much.
 
I want to cut through thick slabs of oak, like maybe 3". I just realized I have an air compressor here I'm not using that has a 5hp motor on it. The problem is it's not a dual shaft and I hate to ruin a compressor even though I have never used it. The 3/4 comes with everything I would need to mount and run it and auction ends tomorrow. Right now, if there isn't any action I'd get it for $70 shipped. That would put me at $181 which I'm ok with BUT, I just found out some guy bought one in great shape at an auction for $190 and it's 100% complete. There is a state surplus auction every month and now I'm wondering if I should just wait till something pops up there. No idea what it will bring or if it will ever show up though either. I like the idea of using something out of the junk pile. I might be able to find a motor at the scrap place but they may sell it at pure copper prices (they have a bad habit of that).
 
Keep looking. 3/4 hp I think will be very weak for what you want to do. This is one of those where more power is better. It it were mine, I would start looking at 2 hp and up. Then again I am from the "Tim the toolman Taylor" school of thought. You really don't want the joiner to slow down and make a mess of a nice piece of oak or maple.
 
I ran a 1/2 hp off of a fan I have here on the jointer and it did pretty good. Blades were ok, I "sharpened them and made them worse. The saw is wiggly; I found a bolt missing and another loose where the tilt/height mechanism bolts to the table. It only had one washer in the front and it looked new. It was thinner than the ones in the rear where it attaches. I know this thing needs to be aligned to the top for it to work smoothly; do I have to mount the mechanism to the top off of the machine and then install as a unit? I can't see any other way to get it set right. There are an uneven number of washer/shims where the top bolt to the frame. I would imagine that needs to be set up "true" to something but I can't imagine what. Level the bottom of the frame on the floor then the top?
 
Can you get the blade 90 degs relative to the the cutting surface? As far as getting the fence and miter slot parallel with the blade, It's common to have to shim the fence itself or the fence guide rails, same for the miter gauge. It -should- be very close and just need fine tuning. Get a parts diagram from Delta to figure out how many washers are supposed to be where. That's all I can think to do from here. Wish I was closer.
 
Machines date to 1958, fence rails are bent up a little in between the bolts. They had a strap there they used to lift it with a fork lift so they got bowed up.

I wish you were closer too. Hey, Jazz fest is right around the corner....:wink:
 
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