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sander for paint prep
- Thread starter brent615
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TR6oldtimer
Darth Vader
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I am in the process of restoration, including paint. I have yet to use a power sander. In going down to bare metal, I use paint stripper, then hand sand. As paint is applied, I will continue to hand sand. Hopefully, if all goes well, it will not be necessary to buff the final clear coat.
If I were to paint over the existing finish, I would do it by hand.
That said, here is link that shows using a variable speed disk sander (which can be used as a buffer), 80 grit paper, and the technique to employ the method.
https://www.autobodystore.com/strip_&_paint.shtml
If I were to paint over the existing finish, I would do it by hand.
That said, here is link that shows using a variable speed disk sander (which can be used as a buffer), 80 grit paper, and the technique to employ the method.
https://www.autobodystore.com/strip_&_paint.shtml
I use a 4 inch scotch bright disk on a angle die grinder. This takes off rust and stripper residue after it has dried. I also use a flap disk pad (24 to 200 grit) on a 4 inch 110V grinder. Lastly, I use a DA sander with 320 grit on the primer. This all works very well for me.
great link, thanks. the paint on the car now appears to be lacquer that was done well in some areas and not prepped properly in others leading to the rear fenders sheeting off paint in 2-3 inch strips/sheets. i want to go to the bare metal also. although i haven't priced it yet i want to do media blasting but i think it is more $$$$ than i want to spend.
I have never liked polyester (bondo) based fillers. A lot of people do like them, but you have to keep water away from them. I use epoxy metal, sealer, and sanding primers. Also epoxy based filler. Then colors and clear coat.
Keep the paper coarse on the metal to give it some tooth. 150 grit or less. I sand primer with 3m gold 320 grit DA sander or hand. Epoxy filler starts with 80 and finish with 150 or 220 depending on if you are using sanding primer. Use long flexible sanding boards to work down filler and sanding primer (I make my own out of 3/16 plywood). Speckle spray it with black lacquer out of a spray can. After it dries, sanding will show you the low spots as they will still show the specks. You can wipe it off with lacquer thinner. Next sealer, sand with 320 or finer, then color. I used awlgrip because I get it wholesale, but next time I will use something that has no clear in it. Two stage color coat looks bad, until you sand and clear coat it. I used Eastwood premium clear. The first time I used it, came out great. Next time, I didn't like the results. Probably due to the over 96 degree temps. The Eastwood wet sands and buffs good.
Between color and clear, use the finest sandpaper you can to get the job done. I had a lot of orange peel (96 degrees!), so I started with 320 and finished with 600 wet/dry. With the clear I started 600 and finished with 2000 grit. Then 3m compound and polish.
You can read fine print in the reflection.
Keep the paper coarse on the metal to give it some tooth. 150 grit or less. I sand primer with 3m gold 320 grit DA sander or hand. Epoxy filler starts with 80 and finish with 150 or 220 depending on if you are using sanding primer. Use long flexible sanding boards to work down filler and sanding primer (I make my own out of 3/16 plywood). Speckle spray it with black lacquer out of a spray can. After it dries, sanding will show you the low spots as they will still show the specks. You can wipe it off with lacquer thinner. Next sealer, sand with 320 or finer, then color. I used awlgrip because I get it wholesale, but next time I will use something that has no clear in it. Two stage color coat looks bad, until you sand and clear coat it. I used Eastwood premium clear. The first time I used it, came out great. Next time, I didn't like the results. Probably due to the over 96 degree temps. The Eastwood wet sands and buffs good.
Between color and clear, use the finest sandpaper you can to get the job done. I had a lot of orange peel (96 degrees!), so I started with 320 and finished with 600 wet/dry. With the clear I started 600 and finished with 2000 grit. Then 3m compound and polish.
You can read fine print in the reflection.
I have found the angle grinder with the Scotchbrite - type pads to work well for removing paint on large areas. You'll need to go to some other tools for small areas, corners, etc. You can get 2" Scotchbrite-type pads for a drill or pneumatic grinder to do tighter areas. There are also some stripping pads for a drill that can be used for narrow spaces. You'll probably have to hand sand some of it.
I use a pneumatic in-line sander to sand filler (plus some hand sanding of filler) but I hand sand all the primer, etc.
The issue with pneumatic tools is not the pressure the compressor will put up but the flow rate at some pressure like 90 psig. I have a 5 hp compressor (rated at 7.1 scfm at 90 psig) and it is OK for most uses but not great. Some day I would like to wire for 220 V and get a bigger one.
Bryan
I use a pneumatic in-line sander to sand filler (plus some hand sanding of filler) but I hand sand all the primer, etc.
The issue with pneumatic tools is not the pressure the compressor will put up but the flow rate at some pressure like 90 psig. I have a 5 hp compressor (rated at 7.1 scfm at 90 psig) and it is OK for most uses but not great. Some day I would like to wire for 220 V and get a bigger one.
Bryan
Bob Buxbaum
Jedi Hopeful
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I have a little bit of experience with air tools and how to keep them happy. I was a Snap-On dealer for 20 years. Needless to say, I have sold more than a few compressors and LOTS of air tools of all sorts and brands.
1) Generally, more expensive air tools in a particular style (air ratchets, sanders, etc.) use LESS air and/or produce more power.
2) Pay extra for a better compressor and you will be rewarded with longer life and better performance.
3) When you buy an air compressor HORSEPOWER IS MEANINGLESS. Air flow volume is what counts. However, there are different ways of rating flow rate. But to keep it simple, CFM (cubic feet per minute) at 90 PSI is what to look for, no matter what the other specs are. DO NOT BUY OILLESS COMPRESSORS - junk ... period. If you have the room, get at least a 60 gallon tank. For electricity, 220 volts single phase is better, and not all that hard to wire up. You'll notice small electric motors (cheap) and bigger motors (not so cheap). And you will see aluminum compressors (cheap) and cast iron (not so cheap).
4) DO NOT TRY TO HORSE AROUND A SERIOUS COMPRESSOR. IF THEY START TO FALL ..... YOU HAVE LESS THAN NO CHANCE OF CONTRILLING THE DECENT. You WILL get hurt. Get friends to help.
5) If you have a Tractor Supply Store nearby, you will be amazed what $1000 will buy! I was. Harbour Freight? Don't even think about it. No matter where you shop, plan on being north of $1000 or you will ultimately be unhappy and spend MORE money to replace it.
6) So, how does one buy a compressor? If it's a one person situation (you and your rusty whatever) then project what sort of air tools you'll be getting. Find the HIGHEST air consumption rate of the hungriest air tool (body tools ARE the greediest) and buy a compressor the will produce at LEAST 1.5 times that amount. After all, not only does the compressor need to supply the tool, but it has to refill the tank at the same time!! Example; a board sander may consume 7 CFM or more, so you'll need a compressor that produces AT LEAST 11 CFM @ 90 PSI. Bigger compressors run LESS and don't get the incoming air as hot, thus less water. Get a good filter/drier/regulator.
Hope this helps some.
1) Generally, more expensive air tools in a particular style (air ratchets, sanders, etc.) use LESS air and/or produce more power.
2) Pay extra for a better compressor and you will be rewarded with longer life and better performance.
3) When you buy an air compressor HORSEPOWER IS MEANINGLESS. Air flow volume is what counts. However, there are different ways of rating flow rate. But to keep it simple, CFM (cubic feet per minute) at 90 PSI is what to look for, no matter what the other specs are. DO NOT BUY OILLESS COMPRESSORS - junk ... period. If you have the room, get at least a 60 gallon tank. For electricity, 220 volts single phase is better, and not all that hard to wire up. You'll notice small electric motors (cheap) and bigger motors (not so cheap). And you will see aluminum compressors (cheap) and cast iron (not so cheap).
4) DO NOT TRY TO HORSE AROUND A SERIOUS COMPRESSOR. IF THEY START TO FALL ..... YOU HAVE LESS THAN NO CHANCE OF CONTRILLING THE DECENT. You WILL get hurt. Get friends to help.
5) If you have a Tractor Supply Store nearby, you will be amazed what $1000 will buy! I was. Harbour Freight? Don't even think about it. No matter where you shop, plan on being north of $1000 or you will ultimately be unhappy and spend MORE money to replace it.
6) So, how does one buy a compressor? If it's a one person situation (you and your rusty whatever) then project what sort of air tools you'll be getting. Find the HIGHEST air consumption rate of the hungriest air tool (body tools ARE the greediest) and buy a compressor the will produce at LEAST 1.5 times that amount. After all, not only does the compressor need to supply the tool, but it has to refill the tank at the same time!! Example; a board sander may consume 7 CFM or more, so you'll need a compressor that produces AT LEAST 11 CFM @ 90 PSI. Bigger compressors run LESS and don't get the incoming air as hot, thus less water. Get a good filter/drier/regulator.
Hope this helps some.