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sandblast and primer question

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tri_carb_healey

tri_carb_healey

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so theres a bit of surface rust under the healey. and some real rust in the usual spots. my question, is it a good idea to buy myself a sandblaster and blast away the surface rust and put some primer down under the chassis and floor pans, outriggers etc. what primer should i use? this car has been in the family for forty years so i'm not looking for a concourse resto just something to keep her protected till i can down a frame off resto. any suggestions, ideas, warnings.
i plan on using my miata to practice the sandblast technique (if there is one). help me out experienced healey owners. most healeys on here are amazing!!!
 
tri_carb_healey said:
so theres a bit of surface rust under the healey. and some real rust in the usual spots. my question, is it a good idea to buy myself a sandblaster and blast away the surface rust and put some primer down under the chassis and floor pans, outriggers etc.

This can be one messy job:
.However, if you have the space and protective gear to use the sand blaster in then go for it.

ONTOH,:
a spot blaster may allow you to do what you need and is not so messy.

what primer should i use?POR-!%


this car has been in the family for forty years so i'm not looking for a concourse resto just something to keep her protected till i can down a frame off resto. any suggestions, ideas, warnings.
i plan on using my miata to practice the sandblast technique (if there is one). help me out experienced healey owners. most healeys on here are amazing!!!
Click to expand...


---------------------------------------FWIW--Keoke
 
Surface rust can be sanded off or chemically treated and then primed. Rust through needs to be replaced with patch panels. I would think a sand blaster would be very messy and unnecessary for chassis parts. I have minimal chassis/frame surface rust and it hasn't changed in 30 years.
IMG_1506.jpg

I have never felt compelled to clean up the underside of my car. A lot of it is covered with oil from the transmission leaks which provide adequate rust proofing.
 
I do not have a lot of experience with them but there are a lot of them that dissolve or encapsulate surface rust and turn it black. Check out auto repair/parts shops
 
I agree about sandblasting being messy...more appropriate for rust removal on individual components than working insitu. BTW, primer may not be your best option for rust prevention.
 
I've just sandblasted a BN2 down to bare metal. I don't think sandblasting is feasible unless you have disassembled the car. I think the 'rust encapsulater' paints work OK, and should do in the short-medium term.

Consider using a paint stripper first if you have a couple layers of paint.

We blasted the whole car with a couple of these (wore the first one out):

https://www.harborfreight.com/110-lb-pressurized-abrasive-blaster-95014.html

You need a pretty big compressor, 5HP/30gal at least. You'll get about 5min of blasting before you have to refill the blaster (we split a 100lb bag of sand into two loads). We used #30 grain Monterrey sand; should be available at your local big box hardware store. I think we've probably used 30-40 bags of sand (so far). We now have a beach on the side of our shop. This is a nasty job; wear eye and lung protection (silicosis is bad news). Wear coveralls and tape up the sleeves and pantlegs to prevent getting sand in some irritation-prone skin areas. Get spare nozzles. Keep your sand dry else it clogs the blaster (I wouldn't do it on a really humid day, for a couple of reasons). Get a rock or piece of bag in the blaster and plan on wasting 10-20mins dumping all the sand out to find it. It's a nasty job, but when everything's working right--happens occasionally--it's actually rewarding.

After blasting, use a good catalyzed primer. I don't think an etching primer is necessary--a blasted surface is perfect for paint. The 'high build' primers do just that (they're almost like thin body filler). Use a 'metal prep' chemical before painting--they are available for aluminum and steel.

I'd get to know your local auto paint guy--if he's experienced he can help you out a lot.
 
This took about two (2) days to accomplish. However much was blasted in a day, the same area was primed with DP40/401 before the end of the same day.

Healey_Chassis.jpg
 
thanks guys so many great ideas and tips!! i dont know what my best route is yet but i will look at the eastwood line as a temp fix for a few years!! i love you guys
 
tri_carb_healey said:
thanks guys so many great ideas and tips!! i dont know what my best route is yet but i will look at the eastwood line as a temp fix for a few years!! i love you guys
Click to expand...
Scrape, sand, prime and paint....do not use undercoating!
Patrick
 
And definitely do not sand blast without a complete strip down, I tried it on the back end of the chassis and gave up after several seconds - sand every where, especially on the diff - could have ended up with sand in the bearings.

Bob
 
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