• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.

    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

Sagging passenger door

X

xsteamer

Guest
Guest
Offline
Well I've known for awhile that the passenger door hinges were suspect because I had to lift the door slightly to close it. We went on a run the other day and wife mentioned that it was getting worse. Sure enough, I can lift the door a good inch before it matches the door latch. Most of the play would seem to be on the bottom hinge inside the door. Before I rip it all apart maybe our body gurus can chime in. Is there adjustment, ie bolts on the hinge inside the door? Any solutions would be appreciated.
 
There's no adjustment to the bolts holding the hinge to the body - 3 posi drive screws thru the "A" post you can tighten from the door opening & one large bolt you can tighten by removing the splash panel under the fender.

There is adjustment to the 3 posi drive screws holding the door to the hinge though...& before I did anything else, I'd make sure all screws/bolts are tight.
 
Tony-

It's been years since I've had to adjust a door, but I think there are captive plates inserted through the footwell/side bulkhead that the 4 hinge screws tighten down into. The hinge stud keep it in place for adjustment.

Snug the hinge stud, keep the hinge screws loose and feckle about with the door (technical term) moving it in and out of the door opening (top independant of the bottom). Stuff a towel or two on the sill top to keep it from fouling the sill. Once satisfied, the striker serves to align the back end of the door.

The strap adjustments are used to center the door in the opening (which is what I think the OP wants). Remove the doorpanel capping and card. Soak the 6 hinge strap screws in PBBlaster overnight then loosen them using an impact driver. If the back of the door sags, the door top needs to move in toward the A-post on the hinge strap and the bottom out toward the dogleg on the hinge strap. Small adjustments have a big impact. Make sure to insert packing (rags/towels) between the door and the sill while making adjustments.

IMO, it takes hours to properly align the doors, as they adjust in 3 dimensions.
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]It's been years since I've had to adjust a door, but I think there are captive plates inserted through the footwell/side bulkhead that the 4 hinge screws tighten down into.[/QUOTE]

Scott, that's on the latch side - not the hinge side.
 
Tony - you're right. I just looked at some old photos.

But I am certain that the forward hinge has captive plates that are floating behind the A-post for adjustment. No visible slots in old photos though, so no idea how they got back there.

(edit: duh, maybe they're part of the hinge assy itself - I'll bet if you removed the hinge from the A-post they're in a cavity in the hinge itself).

I wrestled with door adjustment for countless hours, I am certain the doors adjust in all 3 dimensions.
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]But I am certain that the forward hinge has captive plates that are floating behind the B-post for adjustment.[/QUOTE]

Nope, solid!
 
Don't make me take my door apart /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/devilgrin.gif

Errm, look at your racecar... there are little tiny slots just forward of the lower door hinge /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/angel.gif Trust me, there's a floating plate back there /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/devilgrin.gif

GRMfloors.JPG
 
Ya gotta figure out if the hinge is bad or the screws/nuts holding it & the door are loose....you can check the 3 posi screws in the "A" post easily, remove the splash panel to check the nut behind the "A" post....then, to check the 3 hinge to door posi screws, the door panel has to come off.....it has to come off anyway if you need to replace a hinge.
 
There is a capative plate drilled and taped for the hinge screws in the A column. There are two screws in the door its self.

yep a real pain to adjust, shim the door up with some paint sticks and the screws just snug, open gently and tighten for an initial fit.

The block in the A column should not drop out of sight.

Now this is a spridget but can not immigian mgbs are otherwise.
 
Jack - you're thinking Bugeye.
 
Thanks guys all is appreciated. Will take door panel off and checkout as soon as possible....
 
Check the posi's & nut on the hinge itself before tsking the panel off the door.
 
Thanks Tony, the hinge bolts are fine. Like I said the play is on the door side of the lower hinge
 
Well, probably time for another hinghe...the hardest part to remove will be the posi screws in the door itself.
 
And the Mgbs are different, who did that?
 
Back
Top