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Rustproofing: waxoyl, or what?

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vagt6

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What does everyone use for rust abatement/rustproofing? Seems the age-old method is Waxoyl. But what else is out there, or what's more effective?

I pulled the drain plugs in my Midget and the sills look clean, but very dry. Need to apply something in there, I assume.

What do you do?
 
When I am redoing metal, like brackets, frame, underbody, etc. I use Eastwood 'Rust Encapsilator' as primer, under the final paint coat, which is a hard Chassis Black from Eastwood.. One vehicle over 10 years, holds up great.
Waxoyl is messy to work with, but is really in a class of its own, it really does seep everywhere and does its job great. Most famously in the sills. I spray the wheel wells with the rubberized/tar like black undercoating.
 
when I get around to it, am going to a place called Krown rust control. Don't know if they are in the USA.

The APA (Automobile Protection Agency) - a private body, endorse only Krown.
 
vagt6 said:
What does everyone use for rust abatement/rustproofing? Seems the age-old method is Waxoyl. But what else is out there, or what's more effective?

I pulled the drain plugs in my Midget and the sills look clean, but very dry. Need to apply something in there, I assume.

What do you do?
Click to expand...

This is something I've been wondering about, too. What's the consensus on POR 15? It was pretty popular ten years ago but I'm wondering how it stood the test of time.
 
In doing sill replacements and quarter panels I find that using a garden type sprayer and Penetrol really helps stop rust. 1/2 inch holes and plastic plugs. Spray till it drips out.
I saw this first hand on some rusty sheet metal I soaked with it and then left outside for several years. No further rusting!
You can find it at Home Depot in quarts and Gallons.

I have used the Waxoyl and Eastwood Anti Rust over painted underbody panels and find it wears off in a year or two. Particularly if you sometimes have to drive in rain.

Some posters have used the Rhino type truck bed stuff under- neath and it seems to work well. The spray on black undercoat will actually trap water against the metal after it dries and cracks.
 
POR 15 and Eastwood stuff is great, but I'm referring to a car that's fully assembled, with dry bodywork.

Can't put POR 15 on an assembled/painted car, can you? Wouldn't want to get it on any nice, painted surfaces. It would be tough to get it inside the sills or wings, I'd assume.
 
Krown rust control is good stuff, I have heard of people driving to Canada just to have it done
 
POR-15 is still considered amazing stuff for bare metal. Google POR-15 for amazing findings. I've never heard of it for topping paint.
For the sills, on English sites Waxoyl still reigns supreme. Waxoyl does go over painted areas, but I'm not sure its for visible areas, and I can't imagine it being for weather contacting areas, (like underbody).

I'd sure like to learn more about KROWN! Will have to google it tonight when get home from work.
 
tao724 said:
For the sills, on English sites Waxoyl still reigns supreme. Waxoyl does go over painted areas, but I'm not sure its for visible areas, and I can't imagine it being for weather contacting areas, (like underbody).
Click to expand...

Dinitrol is well regarded here too- they make treatments for both internal cavities and for exterior surfaces too. They make a number of different formulations for various applications. I think it originates in Sweden, and it is pretty well regarded. I understand LTI now use the stuff to treat London Taxis, FWIW.... I'm not sure if its distributed in the US, though....
 
I believe two things are most important, closed areas must have good drainage and whatever is used in those cavities must penetrate into all the seams. I am going to use some Waxoyl on my Midget, but around all the seams I will be using used engine oil. Experience has shown me that used oil is hard to beat for penetration and protection.
 
Are you gonna make guess how?
 
A copy from somewhere on the net:

Take a ½ kilogram of paraffin wax or candle making wax and grind it up with a cheese grater. Soak it in 2 liters of mineral spirits/ Paraffin/ Kerosene/ lamp oil/ Diesel until all of the wax is dissolved. It might take a couple of weeks. Stirring will cause most of the wax to dissolve, but soaking should take care of the rest, heating the mixture in hot water (no open flames) will add in the quick dissolving of the wax. Generally try to dissolve as much wax as the mineral spirits/ kerosene/ paraffin/lamp oil/ Diesel will hold. Pour one liter of mineral oil/ non-detergent motor oil into the dissolved mixture. If the mixture is too thick for spraying you can thin it further with more mineral spirits until it is of a spray-able consistency.

Application:

Buy any cheap engine spray gun at your local auto or tool store that carries air tools. You can also use a garden insecticide sprayer, although it will really make you tired. Rent or borrow an air compressor. If possible elevate your car so that you can get at the underside. (Remember to chock both front and rear wheels as you are going to work underneath the car.) First wash your truck's chassis, both inside and out, to get rid of all the mud, oil etc. Spray the solution onto the underside of the chassis and into every little hole, crack and crevice. Make sure you push the tip into the chassis to spray the inside of the chassis. Let the excess drip off. You will find that the solution will blend into all cracks and chips and if the chassis is scratched it will flow, covering the scratch. If there is existing rust the solution will be soaked up by the rust and thereby creating an oxygen free coating stopping the further rusting/corroding of the surface.

Repeat the above once a year if you live in an area where the roads are sprayed with salt. Once every two to three years if staying inland where it is dry and salt free.
 
I Use a mixture very similar to the above and it works very well. Just don't try to spray it when it's cold.... :yesnod:
 
bgbassplyr said:
Are you gonna make guess how?
Click to expand...


Sorry. I was at work and the recipe is at home on my desk. I'll check and see if its the same as posted above. I was thinking it called from some turpentine, but ????

EDIT
OK Google is your friend

2 1/2 quarts turpentine
12 oz. beeswax / candle wax
1 quart light machine oil
 
Why not just spray rust converter and then Eastwood AntiRust? (make sure to heat the AntiRust to thin it before you spray it)
 
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