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Hi All. First time posting on this forum. I bought a 1974 TR6 a few months ago and really enjoy driving it and learning about the car. The brake master cylinder had been leaking brake fluid onto the driver's side floor and the floor is very rusty now. Still very solid but covered in rust. Any suggestions on what to put on the floor to prevent the rust from eating my floor away?
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TR6 Rust on the floorboards
- Thread starter Rudy1974
- Start date
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poolboy
Yoda
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You should thoroughly rinse those areas with water, making sure all the brake fluid is out of there before treating the area. When the rinse water remains clear you've done a pretty good job of flushing out the brake fluid.
You'll find rust treatment products at retail auto parts stores...
You'll find rust treatment products at retail auto parts stores...
Let me note, replacing a floor pan is a pain in the butt. Take care of it ASAP. Leave no rust behind.
Dad has been using Rust Reformer (Wal-Mart, believe it or not). It's rattle-can variety and is said to convert rust back to metal or turn it into some form of primer. I used a can on the inside of a rough fender to keep it from getting worse until I could really get to it. The primer it turns into isn't exactly sandable, but it seemed to do the trick.
I've heard loads of good stuff about POR-15. It bonds to rusty metal and stops the rust in it's tracks (if the reviews and website are to be believed). It does smell bad, is a bear to clean up, and hates UV.
Regardless, get rid of the rust, paint it up, keep it dry, or get it dry if it gets wet inside.
My 60 was left wet. One seat frame and springs, one floor pan, one sill and the prop shaft tunnel, all had to be cut away and replaced. Now, the damage didn't happen overnight, but it did happen.
Just my $.02
Ron
Dad has been using Rust Reformer (Wal-Mart, believe it or not). It's rattle-can variety and is said to convert rust back to metal or turn it into some form of primer. I used a can on the inside of a rough fender to keep it from getting worse until I could really get to it. The primer it turns into isn't exactly sandable, but it seemed to do the trick.
I've heard loads of good stuff about POR-15. It bonds to rusty metal and stops the rust in it's tracks (if the reviews and website are to be believed). It does smell bad, is a bear to clean up, and hates UV.
Regardless, get rid of the rust, paint it up, keep it dry, or get it dry if it gets wet inside.
My 60 was left wet. One seat frame and springs, one floor pan, one sill and the prop shaft tunnel, all had to be cut away and replaced. Now, the damage didn't happen overnight, but it did happen.
Just my $.02
Ron
Offline
I wasn't aware that just water would clean up spilled brake fluid. If it were me, I'd wash it well with a strong detergent, anyway, to get rid of any dirt or oil that is there, as well. Then, after drying it thoroughly, apply any of the usual products: POR15, Eastwood rust encapsulator are two I know of. Also, I use a lot of rust-converting primers, available various places. Eastwood is one. If you use the rust converting primer, the surface should also get a coat of paint; Rustoleum is fine. That should stop any rust progression.
Also, take a look at the passenger side. If the driver side is rusting, the passenger side also probably is.
Finally, maybe before doing all this, fix the master cylinder. Leaking brake fluid is a mess, and you really shouldn't drive a car with a faulty brake MC.
Also, take a look at the passenger side. If the driver side is rusting, the passenger side also probably is.
Finally, maybe before doing all this, fix the master cylinder. Leaking brake fluid is a mess, and you really shouldn't drive a car with a faulty brake MC.
STeve 1958
Jedi Hopeful
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Definitely fix the brakes first as the brake fluid will strip the paint right off. You might also put down a layer of KilMat to quiet the car down and insulate against heat.
