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RUST: Eastwood, POR15, KBS or ???

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AlfaHealey

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I searched Forum for proper thread, but came up empty. After using every conceivable smell remover product without success, I ripped out cat-soiled carpeting. I am now facing a bit of rust on floors. Not real bad but in need of treatment/coating. Some of the Rust Converter products seem to be two-part (Eastwood) while others (KBS and POR15) appear to come ready to apply. All the advertising claims that their's is the best. Would any of you kindly share your experiences and thoughts on this? Are there other more effective solutions? Ease of use? Durability? Also, good source of new carpeting for 100/6? Thanks much, Eric
 
I have only used the Por15 but I will swear by it. I have used it on garden items, car chassie's, inner floors and the like. Goes on easy, stinks not too bad adn you can hit it with a hammer after it dries and it will not chip, I tried it. Only down side is that once air hits it it starts to harden so you cannot paint out of the can, and it does not have a very long shelf life.
 
There is a product called "ONE STEP" available from auto paint stores. This rust converter can be used right out of the container, can be sanded when dry and makes an excellent primer for repainting a surface.--Fwiw--Keoke
 
I've used POR15. It works well on metal with some grip, like rusted or well etched material. POR15 needs to be topcoated, as it doesn't offer long term UV protection. If you get it on your hands, it's there for awhile.
 
I have used POR and I have used Rust Encapsulator (Eastwood). Eastwood's product is the easier to apply. POR won't stick to smooth surfaces like Randy said above. Don't be deceived either... POR requires a lot of prep to properly apply.

A Mini acquaintance of mine wanted to dig through the hype so he performed his own rust test. You can see and read his method/results at:
https://www.drjing.com/Mini/BLOG/SideBySide.htm
 
Don't use a rust converter. Use a rust remover! OxiSolve from Eastwood will have the rust GONE in very short time and leave the surface ready for paint with only a scuff. Its under $30 for a gallon and is the best new product you will ever buy. I've tried all of Eastwood's rust encapsilator products and nothing beats actually removing the rust. Oxiolve is the fastest and best method short of sandblasting! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yesnod.gif
Jeff
 
Actually... to properly prepare a surface for POR you have to thoroughly degrease the surfaces THEN apply their product "Metal Ready"... which is a phosphoric acid... just like OxiSolve. As mentioned, properly done, POR takes a lot of prep work and you are NOT actually painting over untreated rust. Metal Ready will perform exactly like the OxiSolve mentioned by JeffS. I've used both products. There are also less costly phosphoric acids like Ospho and The Right Stuff - Deruster.
 
Hi DK,I was going to tell Jeffs that fancy named stuff; "Oxi-Solve" weren't anything but "Phosphate" but.---Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
AlfaHealey,

I have used a product called Rust Doctor. It is a chemical that is suspended in a latex base. The chemical changes the active iron oxide into an inactive oxide, magnetite and then seals it with the latex.

As with any active oxide, if you can't remove it, you need to change it to an inactive state and seal it from air and water. With this stuff, you simply surface sand the area, paint it on, leave it for 24 hours and then primer as normal. Like I said, I have used it and it appears to work well.

I have used this on my MGA and on my Healey with success. You might take a look at their website at Rust Doctor
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
 
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