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Running Temp, Guage, Sender Questions

pipercollins

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Hello all, I'm trying to determine whether my temp reading is good/correct. First of all, I have established that I trust my temp gauge. (See thread https://www.triumphexperience.com/phorum/read.php?8,4159 I hope it's ok to refer to posts on another forum here) I think the gauge is good, but I'm still scratching my head a little bit.

<span style="font-weight: bold">1. What is the typical running temp of a 1500?</span> Once mine warms up in the first place, it's almost always dead on the second mark on the gauge. Which I have determined to be right around 150F. I'd always heard that spits tended to run hot...not apparently true in my case. Although I have yet to run it hard on a 90-100 degree day, I've run it in all weather from 50 to the upper 80s. Town, highway, whatever. I'm always within a needle's width of that second mark.

Drove the spit to work the other day and the temp had dropped to freezing overnight. Nice and frosty in the morning. Figured it was a good opportunity to see how the car ran if I covered about half of the radiator with cardboard. Drove it 30 minutes to work, still right on that second mark. Heater works well enough. By the time I drove home temp had got up to the low 60's and sunny. Put the top down but decided to keep the radiator half covered and watched the dial close. Still right on that second mark all the way home.

<span style="font-weight: bold">2. Is it reasonable to expect this little engine to run at such a consistent temp?</span> Like I said, I trust the gauge. I figure the sender either works or doesn't, and I used the same sender in my boiling kettle test.

<span style="font-weight: bold">3. Is this temp actually low for optimum power and efficiency?</span> Could there be a t-stat issue? If it isn't broke, I don't want to break it. But I'm really second guessing things.
 
The normal operating temperature for your engine might be found in a workshop manual. I know that the "NOT" for the TR6 is in the Haynes Manual in the beginning of the chapter called "Cooling System".
You should be able to find thermostat recomendations in the same chapter. Ambient temperature will definitly have an effect on how effeciently your radiator works.
 
pipercollins said:
<span style="font-weight: bold">1. What is the typical running temp of a 1500?</span> Once mine warms up in the first place, it's almost always dead on the second mark on the gauge. Which I have determined to be right around 150F. I'd always heard that spits tended to run hot...not apparently true in my case. Although I have yet to run it hard on a 90-100 degree day, I've run it in all weather from 50 to the upper 80s.
I don't think Spits run particularly hot as a rule, but a lot depends on the overall condition of the cooling system, including how clear the cooling passages in the block are!

pipercollins said:
<span style="font-weight: bold">2. Is it reasonable to expect this little engine to run at such a consistent temp?</span> Like I said, I trust the gauge. I figure the sender either works or doesn't, and I used the same sender in my boiling kettle test.
Consistent is ok, but....

pipercollins said:
<span style="font-weight: bold">3. Is this temp actually low for optimum power and efficiency?</span> Could there be a t-stat issue? If it isn't broke, I don't want to break it. But I'm really second guessing things.
I think it's pretty darned low, if indeed the actual coolant temperature is 150F, which I kinda doubt. I'd want to confirm actual coolant temperature with a good candy thermometer or an infrared or something along those lines. I'd also want to [re]check the thermostat for proper function. I'm wondering if you have a very cool thermostat? 150F might indicate a very, very cool thermostat, and that might be ok in the summer in Texas, but....

And yes, I'd suspect regardless that an actual 150F is a bit low for optimum power and efficiency!
 
That's kind of along the lines of what I was thinking. Might have to try another t-stat to see. At least that's a pretty easy thing to buy and try.

Thanks again.
 
Next question from the newbie, can I pick up a t-stat anywhere for my 76 spit, or do I have to order from one of LBC suppliers? Are they universal?
 
Not exactly universal as there are different diameters, but you will be able to get one of the right diameter at your local auto part store. The diameter is not unique to your Spit. They will probably even have it listed on their computer. I don't remember if they come with the gasket, but RTV will seal the housing.
 
poolboy said:
I don't remember if they come with the gasket, but RTV will seal the housing.
If it doesn't come with a gasket, chances are the counterpeople will be able to find -- at worst -- a "universal" gasket that will work. To me, that would be preferable to any sort of silicone sealant.
 
I laways keep a supply of gasket paper as I prefer to make my own -- the ready-mades never fit to suit me (holes not exact, edges of gasket overhanging, etc.

Real easy to do -- how many other car parts can you make at the kitchen counter with a pair of scissors and a hole punch?
 
Geo Hahn said:
-- how many other car parts can you make at the kitchen counter with a pair of scissors and a hole punch?
:yesnod: Not enough, believe you me.
 
Geo Hahn said:
I laways keep a supply of gasket paper as I prefer to make my own -- the ready-mades never fit to suit me (holes not exact, edges of gasket overhanging, etc.

Real easy to do -- how many other car parts can you make at the kitchen counter with a pair of scissors and a hole punch?

I'm all about the making your parts at home. I fixed my horn push with a beer bottle cap. I'm particularly proud of that one.

Thanks for the tips and advice guys.
 
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