Running rich

[startech47]

Thanks for the previous help.

My sons car is now running, but it is very rich. It is a 79 with the ZS carb. Looking across the bridge, the smaller brass tube is about 3/16" down from being flush with the bridge. Is this the same as the moveable jet in the SU? Should it be flush with the bridge?

Does anyone have a front engine plate, 1500 (1979), they would be willing to part with? The one that came with the car was bent. I straightened it, but we have an oil leak from the front of the engine.

Can anyone post a picture of the front of a bare 1500 block? I am trying to determine the location of any oil gallery plugs that may be leaking behind the front engine plate.

Thanks Phil and John Check out the picture.

 

[jlaird]

If the front plate is bent a bit I think I would have installed it with some "Form A Gasket" looks like blue calk and is used on modern engines in place of gaskets.

If I understand you right, the front plate does not block off any oil passages, it has holes in it to allow oil to get to the timeing chain. Therefor there is lots of oil sloshing around inside. Check the Moss catalog for pics of how it looks and you will see what I mean.

 

[Morris]

Hey Phil-n-John,

I too am leaking from the front cover. It's a drag. Can't offer any advice as of yet.

As for the carb, check this out

[link]www.electrongun.org/ZS_tech_tips.pdf[/link]

I was never able to get my ZS to run lean enough at idle. I am fuel injected now, and still I cannot get it to run lean.

I suspect the dead awful mainifold design.

PS. Car looks great!

 

[startech47]

Jack,

Checked out the illustration on Moss's site. I used the Permatex red high tack spray-a-gasket. Not enough body to fill the bent area. I have a replacement plate on the way and will use a heavier bodied sealant. Thanks,

Morris,

Not bad for a $25.00 paint job !!Thanks to the Chantilly High School Academy Body Shop!!

The rich condition turned out to be a broken tang on the brass body, DPO thing??? The left image shows where the tang was bent in above the needle to locate the needle in relation to the body. The spring pushes the needle up against the tang. When the tang broke the spring pushed the needle up against the adjustment screw in the air valve. Where ever you had the screw adjusted to the needle was always in the same location. To fix this I crossdrilled the body and fabricated a cross pin, center image. The right image shows the cross pin from the top. Thanks,

 

[Morris]

Awesome! Easy fix.