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TR2/3/3A Routing the OD speedo cable

sp53

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Routing the OD speedo cable, I have seen some pics on how the cable goes in front of the battery box and done the passenger-side by the heater nipple and along the frame, but how does the cable get to the point where it goes through the frame and through the emergency brake linkage hole. Does the cable go through one of the brake line holes with the brake line in the frame?
steve
 

KVH

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I can only say that on my TR4 is doesn't go through any holes in the frame. It goes along the transmission, inside the hump, of course, passenger side, and bolts up the the angle drive. I bet I'm missing something. . . .
 
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sp53

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Maybe the body configuration is different. I just came up with what makes the best sense to me and ran it through the hole with the brake line and clipped it to the frame and poked it across straight to the trans. I do not have an angle drive maybe I am missing that or a tr3 does not use it. I think this should work.
 

jfarris

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Steve,
My apologies for not responding to your request. I just did the same thing on my 3 when I switched from an angle drive with short cable to the long cable. I used an old thread that Randall told the correct way to route and you got it correct. Where did you get the small, half moon, clamp that holds the cable in front of the battery?> I'm temporarily using a white plastic TV cable clamp that is very ugly. My OD wires run through the top of the tunnel and have to be unplugged when the tunnel is removed, but it is not that difficult and hardly ever comes out. The folks at Mo-Ma who rebuilt and calibrated my speedo recommended going back to the original long cable. They said the angle drive and short cable has more stress and when the cable starts to go bad they can effect the speedo - mine was bouncing between 50 and 80 when driving 60. It is now smooth as silk!
Good luck!
 
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sp53

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I will forgive you, but could you do me a favor when you have time and measure how much lower you gas pedal is than you brake. I seem to get 5 inches on this car and think the gas pedal is bent down. The clip you want is part 74 # 589-080 those clowns at Moss told they did not know if they had it, like ok that is your answer--- but one day I saw it after I spent a couple of hours making them. The other part that is used on the OD cable is part 80# 589- 115 agian they do not they have them unless you tell them. Part 589-115 might have a too large of hole for a screw because that takes a bolt and OD cable takes a screw.

https://mossmotors.com/triumph-tr2-3-4/engine-performance/oil-system-2

peace out steve
 

CJD

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I had to bend my accelerator pedal rod several ways. When I was done, it lined up so as to hit the back stop bolt centered, and I made it just get full travel at the carbs before hitting the stop. This made it’s resting position about the same height as the brake pedal when the brake is depressed and just engaging.
 
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sp53

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John did you bend the rod in the car? I did many years ago—many; I thinking if I take a vise grip with a ½ round bar slot/hole on the end and clamp it just about at the stop bolt bracket and maybe a crescent wrench on the pedal for leverage and pull up like Tarzan the rod might bend. Sure taking it out would be an easier way to bend it, but the pedals do come out friendly. Any suggestions?
 

jfarris

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Steve,
At rest, my clutch pedal sits 1.25" higher than the brake pedal and the brake pedal sits 3" above the accelerator pedal. The clutch does not start to engage (have any resistance) until you press it about 1". See the picture. At one time, I checked my accelerator just as John did to make sure the carbs were fully opening, but have had them off a couple times since then, so this is a good reminder to look at them again.
Good luck,

IMG_1551.jpg
 

STeve 1958

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My clutch and brake peddles have always been at the same height on my five different triumphs. The gas is about an inch lower. I found it easy to bend the gas peddle rods by hand, in the car.
 
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