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TR4/4A Routing of wiring harness to the rear of a 1961 TR4

Gerald_Gordon

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While my TR4 is having its carpet and vinyl interior replaced at a shop in a distant state, I would like to add additional wires to the harness between the front and rear of the car. Could anyone say whether this harness runs above the floor and beneath the carpet or beneath the floor, please? Photographs would be welcome.
 
On the floor beside the door opening, into the hole behind the "B" pillar, over the inter fender and into the trunk area. The gas tank sender comes out at the top of the inter fender along with the trunk light, if you had one on a 4. Should be on the left side as you are sitting in the car. The voltage stabilizer is in the top of the passenger foot area on the right side.

Wayne
 
"...The gas tank sender comes out at the top of the inter fender along with the trunk light, if you had one on a 4. Should be on the left side as you are sitting in the car.... Wayne"

Wayne, wiring a trunk light is exactly what I want to do. Thank you very much.
 
If you are going to use a toggle switch, get one with a light showing it's in service. If you are going to do the TR6/Spitfire type ground, Might have to rig up a bracket for the switch to hit. Never was a fan of that switch, or the excuse for a light. A string of LED's might at least light it up when you need it.

Wayne
 
As above.....the harness can be hidden under the separate carpet piece that runs down from the door opening....assuming that the carpet piece is cut wide enough.
Are you planning to carpet the car as per original configuration, or custom fit as one piece on each side from the back to the top of the footwell....[ I fitted as one piece ]
Also, consider altering your outer seat belt fixing position. I moved mine forward slightly so that the metal attachment did not impact on the vinyl on the adjacent wheel arch.
 
Malbaby, thank you for the advice about leaving space adjacent to the underlayment which, in my case, will be Dynapad four‑part, composite-barrier, constrained‑layer material https://www.dynamat.com/automotive-and-transportation/automotive-restoration/dynapad/ instead of the standard jute, which I hope would absorb some of the low-frequency droning that is quite loud at 3000 RPM when the hood is installed and the windows are closed. The carpet itself is a standard grey Wilton-wool kit from Rimmer Brothers that I bought during the recent sale. Beneath the Dynapad underlayment will be Dynamat Extreme damping material https://www.dynamat.com/automotive-and-transportation/automotive-restoration/dynamat-xtreme/ stuck directly to the floor, firewall, and driveshaft tunnel to suppress resonances in the sheet metal.

Of the two new wires, one is for an existing after-market light in the boot that is activated by the opening of the lid but that presently has power to its switch only when the tail lights are illuminated, and the other is for a future backup light if I could find something inconspicuous, such as a narrow strip of white LEDs mounted discreetly beneath the bottom edge of the rear panel. (Recommendations are gladly welcomed.)

Thank you for your advice about the outer seat-belt anchors. As part of this project, my lap belts will be replaced with a three-point (UK: "lap-and-diagonal") system. When I last drove the car in June, I had not noticed any interference between the outer attachments and the vinyl on the wheel arches, but I will examine that when I again have the car in a few weeks.
 
Something you might consider - I added bullet connectors to the wiring for the license plate lamps inside the boot on both sides. This allows the bumper to be removed and installed without having to remove the fiddly license plate lamp fixtures each time.

Boot3_zpsf09fc29e.jpg
 
For what it's worth--this is a '66 TR4A.
 

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Geo Hahn and Steve Maas, thank you both for your photographs, which will help me visualize the harness routing when I discuss it with the upholstery shop in a distant state.
 
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