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Rotisserie

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John Moore

John Moore

Luke Skywalker
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A guy in my local british car club is looking to give away a midget rotisserie now that he's done with it! Unfortuately, another guy with a AH3000 called first and has dibs, but I would think his car would be too big... I hope!

Even tho' my Bugeye has 1/4 ep. springs, I would hope I could make this work on my car. What do you think?

https://www.greatmgproject.com/slideshow/index.htm
 
I hope it works out! That would make the sill work I need to do on my project so much easier! I hope the big healey guy flakes out.
 
John
If it does not work out I have the plans to make a wooden rotisserie like Ben used.

Paul
 
I've got my VW on one... huge & metal, home-made. One of the first projects with my welder.

If it were for a fairly simple resto, I would probably do a wooden one next time. Not as versatile, but not $500 worth of steel, either! =)
 
A couple of harbour freight engine stands and some square tubing and an afternoon with Mr. Mig and Bob's yer uncle.
 
Since the sills carry the loading between the jack stands I like the idea of a center support of the chasis during removal and replacement so that the door gaps don't close up slightly in the process.
 
I agree with your concern about using the pictured rotisserie for anything haevier than a Spridget...in fact, I think it would be unstable even with a Spridget. I say that for this reason; for a rotisserie to work optimally, you want the center of mass at each end to fall as near as possible to the center of rotation. If you look carefully at how the car is attached the entire car is rotating around the two center points. The design would be fine if you just wanted to "hang" the car bottom up, but in my opinion you would use the greatest functionality, being able to rotate it sideways and sit and work on the bottom of the car while it is perpendicular to the floor.

I agree with the other comments about the engine stand rotisserie. You might want to check out the one I built for my Spridget Project. It's at:

https://www.raysmg.com/rays_mg_midget_rotisserie.htm

Ray

P1010020.jpg
 
Ray, I've never looked closely at your pics before. Interesting how you attached it to the tail lights. It is probably pretty strong there, but did you consider putting a brace on the inside down to where the rear spring hanger of a 1/2 elliptical car would be.
 
Only thing I'd do differently than what Ray did is add a piece of tube between the 2 engine stands.
 
I think I saw in his notes that he had an angle iron that he could bolt between them, but that he did not feel it was needed with those types of stands.
 
Ah, thanks...I'm still in awe of his trailer!
 
Yup me too.
My father has gone through a variety of trailers. From too big to too small to too heavy to too wide, enclosed to open to enclosed. Honestly, I think he just likes to buy/sell/trade.

Currently he has a 24ft enclosed trailer. I think he only uses it for parking. I've only known him to tow it three time in the past two years. I'm thinking... 24 ft = 2 spridgets!
 
& 1 heckuva truck!
 
Thanks guys, I appreciate your feedback.

I spoke to the guy this morning. He's gonna let the big Healey guy come take a look, but he thinks it will require too much modificiation to make it work for him.

Hopefully, I'll get it and can modify it with some of your suggestions. I restored my B without a rotisserie and would love to have one this time around. Especially, one that supported the body for the entire lenght.

I'll keep you posted.
 
Trevor Jessie said:
I think I saw in his notes that he had an angle iron that he could bolt between them, but that he did not feel it was needed with those types of stands.
Click to expand...

Tony and Trevor, thanks for the comments.

Yes, there is an angle iron between the two stands (photo below); it's detatchable and probably not needed, but I do keep it on when the car is elevated.

As far as the tail light attachment points, that has turned out to be the best idea I've had in a while. There is a second set of plates inside the trunk; the sandwich formed...inside plate/sheet metal tailight flat/outside plate is extremely strong. If you look at how all the curves converge right at that area you can see that there is great strength there. Anyway, if I were to build another, I'd do it exactly the same.

The trailer I tow is about as much as I'd want to. The truck (Nissan Titan crew cab...four full sized doors) is right at 19' bumper to bumper; add the trailer at 16' for the box, 6'+ for the tongue and hitch, and you're talking 41'+ and grossing over 10,000 lbs. You learn to keep your eye out for refueling stations that have PLENTY of room around and between pumps, fast food joints that have additional parking on the side or back for tractor/trailers, and rest areas with similar parking.

Ray


P1010006.jpg
 
Trevor Jessie said:
I think I saw in his notes that he had an angle iron that he could bolt between them, but that he did not feel it was needed with those types of stands.
Click to expand...

I vote for needed - I know mine was wood (have the plans if you're interested) but - ONCE - only once I pushed the car instead of pulling and the back rotisserie rolled under the car - fortunately no damage to the car - turns out my heart is pretty good as are my reflexes but the bottom piece is critical - and now you really don't need to ask me how I know
grin.gif
 
Oh boy, garage is comming right along. Looks like the fun stuff is left.
 
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