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Rotisserie set up?

azbugeye

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Here are some pics of what I threw together for a rotisserie. The front is based off some other pics I have seen, but the back is something I threw together this evening using the old bumper attachments. Was wondering if using the rear bumper attatchments will work, or will it put too much torque on the body as I'm not using rear spring boxes?

Thanks for your input before I bolt it onto my two engine stands. -Nick

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Looks like it would do fine for the body only. I'd go for a bit more support if you plan on having any of the drive train installed when up on the rotisserie though. Remember to add some bracing across the door and or cockpit openings before you start cutting away any of the sills or floor area just to be sure you maintain alignment.
 
I attached my Bugeye to the rotisserie using the rear bumper mounts and haven't had any problems. I concur with Bill Young about welding braces through the door openings and not installing any of the drive train while the car is being supported in this fashion. Hope this helps!
[img:center]https://www.spritespot.com/gallery/view_p...=rotisserie_003[/img]
 

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i have a 59 mk1 i attached at the tail lights and the turn lights with angle across to attach my pivot i had to replace most of my bottom of car this held it grate if you want picture email i dont know how to attach picture here
jbegor@twcny.rr.com i had compleat drive train v6 engine five speed rear end seats and sat in them it just got to be a bear to turn alone had to use crobar for leverge with that much weight and iv got the pictures to prove it
 
Nick,

I'm near 52nd St & Thomas. I replied to your PM yesterday with some contact info. Sorry, just didn't see it sooner.
 
When I restored my TR6, I built a rollover frame from two sheets of plywood and some 2x4's to join them. Corners were cut at a 45 degree angle and it was very easy to roll the entire car over.
 
Elliot,

I've seen you setup, or someone's that was very simular, and I have a few questions.

Did you use one plywood collar or two?
I assume your shell had good floors and sills installed before you rotated it.
What thickness of plywood did you use?
 
rlwhitetr3b said:
Elliot,

I've seen you setup, or someone's that was very simular, and I have a few questions.

Did you use one plywood collar or two?
I assume your shell had good floors and sills installed before you rotated it.
What thickness of plywood did you use?

Rich-
I used two sheets of 3/4" plywood cut in half giving me four pieces. Two for the front, two for the rear. I took some stiff wire and "mapped" out the contour on all four sides of the body shell and transfered that to the plywood. Cut out carefully, insert on the four sides, and join with 2x4's. Obviously, cut the corners as well.
You are wrong about the floors. The drivers floor and sill was terrible... lots of holes in the floor and rusted sill. I flipped the car over and cut out the floor and welded in the new one.
The photos below show:
Top= original floor showing all the holes in the floor.
Middle= After the new floor and rocker was installed.
Bottom= After the bottom was undercoated.

This rollover frame worked great for me, and it did not cost an arm and a leg.
 
Once the shell was completed, I built this frame with wheels to move it around...
 
I welded a nut on a washer and then welded inside the pipe
and used a bolt through the turn signal light hole on the park
and stop light I cut a plate to help support in side held very well
 

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tis was very easy to turn i hab 8" numatic wheels i could roll it all over and it left the back wide open to work
 

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as you can see this set up was quite strong I had the whole
drive train engine transmision rear axel I had to use a bar
to turn it this heavy but still one person
 

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