Jim_Gruber
Yoda
Offline
Found some time to finish up the rotisserie for Bugsy II. Pics and Lesson learned along the way are included:
1)The Engine Stand came from Harbor Freight, $49.95 when on sale.
2) Larger wheels 3 that swivel with locking casters and 3 that do not swivel came from Harbor Freight and Tractor Supply
3) U-Bolts and 2 x 4 allow wheels to bolt on plus give additional ground clearance.
4) If you notice the angle of the top of the engine stand and the male mount to the body the angles are different. This thing will not rotate well if angles do not match up properly.
5) The middle leg in the front interferes with body rotation and is too long. Car cannot rotate through 360 degrees.
6) some sort of additional bracing is needed to need the front and back aligned especially when I roll outside to pressure wash.
7) in order to keep rotating pieces aligned I will be removing the middle leg of the engine stand and making use of 3 10' pieces of conduit. Mounted low to the bottom of the engine stand. I will need to cut the third piece of conduit and use a connector as the distance between legs is close to 12'
8) As I mount the BE to the Rotisserie, 2 legs will allow the male mount and the female receptacle to align. Liberal greasing of the male and female parts will assure easy rotation
9) U Bolts will allow distance to be adjusted on the base so things can stay aligned. The engine stands are plenty strong the concern is base spreading or compressing when you are moving the rotisserie. the 1/2" EMT Conduit $1.95ea at Lowes today will keep everything aligned.
10) in the rear a single bolt with rubber washers on both sides goes through the taillight mounting hole. I backed up the bolt with a block of wood that fits against the body and used the thickest rubber washers I could find between the 2 x 6 and the body.You can see the block of wood I used for a backing plate. It fits between two seams where area is flat. 1
1) Eye hooks will be used to raise up the rear of the BE. Unfortunately the I Beam the chain hoist will attach to is about 18-24” forward of the lifting point. When I raise in the rear, the car will want to swing forward and drop off of the jack stands.So I will need to raise the front and rear end at the same time and walk the car 18-24” forward to get it into correct position. That will be the tricky part. I may take off of jack stands in the front and use a creeper / furniture dolly under the front with wheels so it can easily move forward, then I can come in with the engine crane.
Here are the pics. Lots of cogitation over the past months trying to figure out the best way to do this without putting Bugsy at risk putting him up in the air. Thanks to Rut for his help and advice. His BE went to the Body shop on rotisserie missing the middle legs on both engine stands so I know this is doable.
Next weekend if I can recruit a few bodies to help Bugsy will go upside down. Pics attached. Questions on how or why drop me a note.
1)The Engine Stand came from Harbor Freight, $49.95 when on sale.
2) Larger wheels 3 that swivel with locking casters and 3 that do not swivel came from Harbor Freight and Tractor Supply
3) U-Bolts and 2 x 4 allow wheels to bolt on plus give additional ground clearance.
4) If you notice the angle of the top of the engine stand and the male mount to the body the angles are different. This thing will not rotate well if angles do not match up properly.
5) The middle leg in the front interferes with body rotation and is too long. Car cannot rotate through 360 degrees.
6) some sort of additional bracing is needed to need the front and back aligned especially when I roll outside to pressure wash.
7) in order to keep rotating pieces aligned I will be removing the middle leg of the engine stand and making use of 3 10' pieces of conduit. Mounted low to the bottom of the engine stand. I will need to cut the third piece of conduit and use a connector as the distance between legs is close to 12'
8) As I mount the BE to the Rotisserie, 2 legs will allow the male mount and the female receptacle to align. Liberal greasing of the male and female parts will assure easy rotation
9) U Bolts will allow distance to be adjusted on the base so things can stay aligned. The engine stands are plenty strong the concern is base spreading or compressing when you are moving the rotisserie. the 1/2" EMT Conduit $1.95ea at Lowes today will keep everything aligned.
10) in the rear a single bolt with rubber washers on both sides goes through the taillight mounting hole. I backed up the bolt with a block of wood that fits against the body and used the thickest rubber washers I could find between the 2 x 6 and the body.You can see the block of wood I used for a backing plate. It fits between two seams where area is flat. 1
1) Eye hooks will be used to raise up the rear of the BE. Unfortunately the I Beam the chain hoist will attach to is about 18-24” forward of the lifting point. When I raise in the rear, the car will want to swing forward and drop off of the jack stands.So I will need to raise the front and rear end at the same time and walk the car 18-24” forward to get it into correct position. That will be the tricky part. I may take off of jack stands in the front and use a creeper / furniture dolly under the front with wheels so it can easily move forward, then I can come in with the engine crane.
Here are the pics. Lots of cogitation over the past months trying to figure out the best way to do this without putting Bugsy at risk putting him up in the air. Thanks to Rut for his help and advice. His BE went to the Body shop on rotisserie missing the middle legs on both engine stands so I know this is doable.
Next weekend if I can recruit a few bodies to help Bugsy will go upside down. Pics attached. Questions on how or why drop me a note.