• Hi Guest!
    If you appreciate British Car Forum and our 25 years of supporting British car enthusiasts with technical and anicdotal information, collected from our thousands of great members, please support us with a low-cost subscription. You can become a supporting member for less than the dues of most car clubs.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

Rocking movement in adjustable steering wheel

Share this page

B

bob hughes

Luke Skywalker
Country flag
Offline
Ok, here is the problem.

I have noticed that my adjustable steering wheel can be rocked slightly and with a good tug, I can telescope the steering without undoing the calmping nut, ie. things are a bit worn.
Whilst the engine is out I have removed the steering column so that the engine bay can be painted, I have examined the steering wheel and have come up with an idea how to solve my problems.

1) to stop the rocking motion, presumably due to the worn clamping nut or the bevel at the bottom of the boss, I have 'fashioned' ( small bit of filing) a narrow sleeve using a 20mm olive from my plumbing kit to slip inside the top of the steering boss and fit over the steering shaft splines, this prevents any movement at the top end of the boss.

2) to improve the clamping mechanism, I have resorted to covering the split bevel at the bottom of the steering boss with PTFE tape, this takes up the wear and appears to work.

It must be said that I have not yet tried both remedies in earnest yet

Has anyone else had similar problems and how have they been overcome?

:cheers:

Bob
 
There is a method of restoring the threads on the column so they bite into the steering wheel hub. I'm not sure how they do it though. Maybe call a few machine shops in the area.
 
I have the opposite problem. I cannot get the nut loose to adjust the stering column.
 
dvu101 said:
I have the opposite problem. I cannot get the nut loose to adjust the stering column.
Click to expand...

This is a bit drastic but have you tried using an adjustable pipe wrench on it, wrap some rag around the head of the nut first of course and do not forget that the thread is right handed when viewed from the dash board, so you need the fit the wrench and turn clockwise ( when viewed from the cockpit) to release the nut - worked for me. An alternative is to try one of those rubber wrenches, works a bit like an oil filter wrench, the more you turn it the tighter the band becomes. I would have tried this first but I could not find mine.

:cheers:

Bob
 
Johnny,

The threads are fine, and there is no slack in the splines, it is the taper that is the chief problem, you can only tighten that big 'nut' so far then it starts to hit the boss if the taper is worn, then you are screwed as it were! May be buying a new nut would solve the problem, but I do not think that they are available without buying the steering wheel as well. I will try my fix first and consider further options later.

:cheers:

Bob
 
The nut is available for The 100-6 and 3000 cars from Moss (853-777). About 90.00 though, so it may be a bit expensive to just try. As to not being able to loosen the nut, I agree with having to use a tool of some sorts. I had to use a pair of slip jaw channel lock pliers to remove our original wheel the first time.
Jim
 
Back
Top