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Rocker Panel Question

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AggieCPA

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I bought a set of replacement rocker panels a few years ago because I was told they were OEM parts. My understanding is that the taper on the replacements makes them harder to fit properly - that there is a slight taper to them and they're longer?

Can anyone tell me how I can tell for sure if these are original parts? Any measurements I can do? I don't see any markings on them. I just don't want to mislead someone when I sell them.
 
Aggie,
Many here have done a full resto so you'll get the particulars.
You need to tell us what year/model of car and posting a pic will help too.
 
The biggest difference I'm aware of is the NOS panels have and arc to them that matches that of the door. Repros are flat, so you have to mud them in to match the door.
 
Besides not having the arc, there is a difference between the outer rockers on the pre and post 60,000 cars. IIRC, the pre 60,000 rockers are not available from the usual sources. I don't remember exactly what the difference is, but if you're using the later style on an earlier car, there is some modification you have to do. Here's what Moss has to say about it..."Only the late rocker panels are available. When fitting these to earlier cars, do not cut out the old rocker panel until it is determined how much of the old one must be left attached to the back of the A-posts below the door hinges."

If you measure the ones you have, I can check that against a set of early rockers that I have, then you'll know if you have the early or late set.

BTW, I never matched the arc on the rockers, and its very difficult to tell.
 
Having just used a bunch of OEM replacement panels on an early 6, the only thing I noticed is that a lot of the creases/bends were not as crisp as they need to be. I think this is from using old tooling that is worn down around the sharp bends.
Other than that they fit fine and I did notice anything specific to the rockers except for the previously stated.
 
martx-5 said:
Besides not having the arc, there is a difference between the outer rockers on the pre and post 60,000 cars. IIRC, the pre 60,000 rockers are not available from the usual sources. I don't remember exactly what the difference is, but if you're using the later style on an earlier car, there is some modification you have to do. Here's what Moss has to say about it..."Only the late rocker panels are available. When fitting these to earlier cars, do not cut out the old rocker panel until it is determined how much of the old one must be left attached to the back of the A-posts below the door hinges."

If you measure the ones you have, I can check that against a set of early rockers that I have, then you'll know if you have the early or late set.

BTW, I never matched the arc on the rockers, and its very difficult to tell.
Click to expand...

OK, I have the rocker panel in hand. When I measure from the lip that goes against the inner rocker to the outer edge there seems to be about a 1/8" bow to it. As far as length, it looks like just shy of 31" is the longest point. I'm not sure what measurement is the key.
 
I have a TR3A. Are the rocker panels you have for a TR3A ?

So I checked your "Profile" and see you have a TR3.

The ones I bought for my 1958 TR3A were repros. I bought them in 1988 in England and did my full body-off restoration here in Canada. The rocker panels were short by about 1/2". The clearance at the "A" post where the door swings in about an inch just below the hinges was not enough and I had to modify the new pieces. I also did another TR3A finishing in 2006 and these rocker panels (bought in USA) had the same problems. None of these have a curve to follow the curve along the bottom of the door. Here is a photo of mine when I was doing this in 1989.
 

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OK, sorry to beat this horse any further but I have posted some pics to peruse. It looks to me like there is no question this piece has an arc to it. I also noticed that one end does not seem to have the flanges that the repros do.

Rocker Panel
 
The ones I bought looked like yours, but didn't have the two drain holes, the arc curve or the surface rust. When you put this into place on your TR, check it for length. I had to unfold the bend that you have where it comes close to the "B" post. Mine were too short, so I had to MIG weld a sheetmetal patch there. Clamp it into place with "C" clamps or vice grips along the top and along the bottom flanges, then mount your door using the hinges and all the flathead screws. Then carefully open the door and check the lower bottom front corner of your door to see if you have enough clearance. The repro outer sills that I got didn't have enough space and if I had left them, I would have bent the bottom front corner of the door skin out. I had to modify them - cut, patch and weld.

Good luck. I hope you won't have these problems with the ones you have obtained.
 
Thanks, but I don't have a Tr3 anymore and don't know of one near me. I'm selling all the Tr3 stuff I have.

I tend to believe they are OEM due to the curve, but don't want to mislead anyone.

FYI: I had to pay extra for the surface rust; not easy to find on a Tr3
 
I saw the items you have for sale on one of the web sites. It's nice to know some people want to to be correct with there descriptions of the items they are selling. Now just keep your parts and go get another TR3 to fix up. It's good to have honest people in the Triumph group. Good luck with your sales.
 
mallard said:
I saw the items you have for sale on one of the web sites. It's nice to know some people want to to be correct with there descriptions of the items they are selling. Now just keep your parts and go get another TR3 to fix up. It's good to have honest people in the Triumph group. Good luck with your sales.
Click to expand...

Well, thanks for the nice words. I feel stupid sometimes but couldn't live with myself any other way. What stinks is that I had two Ebay auctions removed because I said they weren't reproductions. I suspect that people selling a similar item that IS a reproduction, complained because I said mine isn't.
 
Having installed a fair number of these little monsters, I can tell you that there are NO nice fitting panels to be had(in MHO)Each one of them will present a problem in fit.The major problem they seem to have in common is insufficent drop for the door to fit.I have seen restored cars that had zero gap along the bottom of the door(and chipped paint!!)The other major problem is the lack of roll-under, they tend to windup having a 90degree to vertical which doesn't follow the curvature of the door.What ever problems you have,rest assured they will take a lot of time and talent to put right.Then when the door is fitted just exactly so, its a good idea to shut off the front and rear end gaps the factory ignored with such retched results......
MD(mad dog)
 
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