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Rivet Squeezer - help, John Loftus

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Lin

Lin

Jedi Knight
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I ordered and just received a rivet squeezer from Brown Tool to install the alloy rivets on the lower back lip of the rear shroud. (It appears to be a VERY well made tool, by the way). Not knowing about these tools, I did not know that I also needed to order rivet squeezer sets! Dog-gone-it, I wanted to finish this job this weekend.

So John, or anyone else, what size rivet squeezer set do I order and do I order flush or cupped?

Thanks.

Lin
1960 BT7 in restoration
1959 Bugeye
 
Lin,
The flush or cupped question is answered by whether or not you use universal head (domed) or flush (countersunk) rivets. If you flush rivet it you need two flat head pieces. If you use universal head rivets you must select a set that riceives the dome of the rivet on that side and a flat anvil set on the other or "bucked" side. There is a set for each size of domed rivet. Figure out the rivets you want to use and the cup size is determined by the rivet diameter (shank diameter). You may want to use washers on the back side of the rivets before you squeeze them. There are other issues you may run into, like having clearance for the squeezer etc. Hope this helps.

Jon Robbins
 
Hi Lin,
If the rivets you are using have a rounded head, Iā€™d get a cupped attachment. A flush attachment will ding the rivet head. When I made my squeezer, I drilled a slight hole in the ā€œreceiverā€ and rounded it out with a small spherical grinding stone. See the "Steel Rod" in the photo. After this photo was taken, I ground the cup out larger to match the rivet a little better.
139339-sqeezer.jpg
 
Hi Lin,

When I borrowed the rivet squeezer from an aircraft mechanic friend it came with an assortment of sets for the tool. The head of the rivet is flat so that side uses a flush or flat set. I experimented with a domed (just to see what happened) and flush set for the tail side of the rivet and found that the flush set on that side gave the best termination and looks just like the factory rivet. Here's some pictures with some notes to show what I used. (BTW, I could only read the last two digits for the flush set so it was xxx-16 in case that helps).

rivet.jpg


rivet2.jpg


rivet3.jpg


rivet4.jpg
 
John,
Thanks! I knew you would come through, and the images are very helpful. In the Brown Aviation Tool catalog #2003-16 is 1/8" length and 1/2" face diameter. Does that sound right to you?

John, I think you mentioned this before but I have misplaced the email: Were you able to use this tool for all the rivets on the boot rail also? Can you get to them all with the tool?

Lin
 
Lin said:
John,
#2003-16 is 1/8" length and 1/2" face diameter. Does that sound right to you? Were you able to use this tool for all the rivets on the boot rail also? Can you get to them all with the tool?
Click to expand...

Hi Lin,

The 1/8"L x 1/2" dia sounds right. I was not able to use this tool for the boot rail. The cross section of the boot rail and shroud flange in this area is deep requiring a very long die set for both the tail and head side. This would also require a very deep yoke. I'm not sure how they did this at the factory, quite possibly they used some custom tooling .. maybe someone else will know? I ended up using some Heavy Duty pop rivets for this area and plan to do a bit of grinding and filling to contoured the heads for the flat look and then painting them (I attached my shrouds after painting .. obviously easier to do this pre-paint if that is your assembly plan.)

Cheers,
John
 
Thanks, John. I will look at pop rivets for the the boot rail also. I was afraid that the squeezer tool would not work having quickly looked it over. Is "Heavy Duty" a standard descriptor for pop rivets? I only remember the diameter differentiations, but I will take a look at the store tomorrow. Thanks, as always.
Lin
 
lin, for a full description of "pop rivets" required tooling, material used in manufacturing etc you can check out https://www.emhart.com i believe the squeezer gregw posted may have been custom designed for the job your now doing, notice the deep back set of the jaws, your question motivated me to look at the lower rear shroud lip of my bj7 and noticed the p.o. had his body shop use sheet metal screws grinding the heads off then just painted over them, not what i would recommend, i also noticed that perhaps a small bucking bar, soft alum. rivets and a rivet gun (pneumatic) might be an option here. i dont see why the one johnl. has pictured couldnt be used.
 
My bad. I mis-read the original post thinking the lower lip of the trunk opening was what we were talking about. The problem with a rivet squeezer here is it has to get over the aluminum lip and the rear skirt rail, about an inch and a half. Thatā€™s what prompted me to make the tool, that and being cheap.
 
Hi Lin, interesting you entered this post as I am almost ready myself for a squeezer of sorts. Actually I've found many uses for a rivet squeezer. For instance, on the front shroud rivets were used, similar to those in the rear, to attach 3 brackets used to secure the grille on all Healey's.
Also, if you'll notice on the under side of the carb's there's a plate to drain gas leaks away from the exhaust pipes. There too are copper rivets used to secure the asbestos shielding. I believe those might use the rounded rivets with burrs (washers) on them. BTW, would you consider loaning me your squeezer? Unfortunately I'm leaving on vacation and won't be able to respond until I return, in a couple of weeks.
/bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cheers.gif
 
Hey Johnny,

The grill brackets use a tubular rivet, the asbestos shield uses a solid rivet with a tubular end (so it is rolled over). Not sure what you mean about the plate to drain gas leaks from exhaust pipes .. are you talking about the same asbestos shield sheet metal?

Anyway, my point is all these rivets use different rivet sets than the rear shroud and the asbestos shield has inboard rivets that require a different type of machine with a deep throat (mind out of gutter, guys.:G) So if you buy, borrow, or rent a squeezer you will want a full assortment of rivet sets to do these different rivets and probably need to do some hand setting too.

Cheers,
John
 
Johnny,
My intention is to lend the rivet squeezer (same one as in John Loftus's images above) to anyone on the forum who would like to use it. No charge, just the cost of postage. I am afraid I agree with John's observations, I don't see a lot of use for this tool other than for the rear lip of the car where the shroud joins the frame. That is why it is such a shame to have to buy a $150 tool.

Anyway, as soon as I finish with it (hopefully this week) anyone wishing to borrow the squeezer is welcome to it. Just let me know.

Johnny, do you still need it? Please send me your mailing address and let me know when you need it.

Lin
1960 BT7 in restoration
18959 Bugeye
 
Lin,

Is your rivet sqeezer still available for borrow? When I get my windshield back from the Chrome plater, I will need to put it back together.
Jerry
BJ8
 
Jerry,
Yes, my rivet squeezer is available and I would be happy for you to use it for just the cost of mailing it to you and back to me. HOWEVER, I am not sure that it is you answer for the windshield. Please check with John Loftus or someone who has re-riveted the windscreen. I have a BT7 so my windscreen is not like yours. I used the rivet squeezer for the rivets in the back shroud. Let me know.

Lin
 
Well, we will wait for someone that has done the windshield. I was also wondering if the windshield rivets were aluminum, steel, or chrome over steel. So many parts, so many questions.

Jerry
BJ8 in progress.
 
The rivits on my BJ8's windshield were steel (3/16" diameter) and it took a very beefy air powered riviter to install them. I was able to borrow it from a friend. I think you could pound them closed if you are carefull and had an extra set of hands so as not to ding the chrome. I made a squeezer for my rear shroud to trunk pan and rear bow but it would not come close to handling the windshield rivits. Have a good day!

John
 
I re-chromed my BJ8 windsield not too long ago. There are two types of rivets used to attach the chrome plated brass pillars to the stainless steel attaching brackets. One is a countersunk flush rivet and the other is a round head rivet. I believe that both are 3/16 inch diameter. I got stainless rivets for obvious reasons. Setting these particular rivets is best accomplished with a real rivet squeezer. I was able to enlist the help of a friend who is building a kit plane, and we used his air powered squeezer, with the appropriate sets. I would definitely not try a hammer for this job. You can always contact your local EAA (Experimental Aircraft Association) chapter. Homebuilt aircraft enthusiasts are great folks, and you will easily find a willing volunteer to help you squeeze these few rivets.
 
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