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Ripped off exhaust on u-haul transport - advice?

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BrandonBJ8

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Hi everyone! It's been a while. My BJ8 has been in storage for the past 2 years while I've been living out east. I'm back in the south now and picked up my car last weekend. Unfortunately, as I was loading it on to the Uhaul auto transport, the exhaust got caught and ripped off where the flex pipes meet the exhaust manifold. It also ripped off 3 hangers. I just took it to a local muffler shop and they wanted over $600 to fix it! They would charge $420 to attach new flex pipes and $190 to install new hangers. They said you couldn't weld to the flex pipe because it's so thin so you had to install new. Is this my only option? I've attached 2 pictures. One of where it separated and another of one of the hangers.





Thanks!
-Brandon
 
Hey Brandon,
You can get new down pipes with the flex part from AH Spares in England for 28.5 pounds each and the hangers for 1.55 pounds as well. I checked and Moss does not show one of the downpipes for some reason so only one available from them at $79.50 each. You might check British Car Specialists, David Nock's company, in Stockton, CA as he probably has them. I would guesstimate it will cost you about 30 pounds to get the parts from UK but quality is excellent and they are stainless steel. Shouldn't be too difficult for you to do it, just will be a knuckle buster and take some time. ( exchange is about $1.65 to 1 pound)
Good luck,
Mike
 
Agree with Mike. Someone will have the downpipes; Moss, VB, BCS or maybe Tom's Imports or British Parts Northwest (Google is your friend). Shipping from BCS is reasonable. Don't get stainless unless the rest of the system is stainless--and maybe not even then--as these pipes get very hot and water doesn't collect and cause rust. Even mild steel pipes generally last forever (unless they go on a U-Haul). Order new flange-to-downpipe gaskets while you're at it. I've found the best way to remove downpipes--I've had mine off and on a half-dozen times the last few years--is to separate them from the exhaust manifold then pull forward (not a problem since yours are already *ahem* separated). But, when you put the new in insert the backend into the muffler then attach to the manifold. Takes a bit of wrangling.

The hangers are definitely do-it-yourself; in fact, they fail quite often--the rubber separates--and they're a simple swap-in. I think they run less than $10 apiece and whoever has the downpipes should have them. $190 to replace them is outright gouging.

Next, start looking for another muffler shop. The flexpipe IS weldable--that's how it was attached originally--but unless you're a welder just get new pipes. Save the old ones in case you want to try your hand at MIG someday; even if you have to cut up to an inch off there should be enough to mate up to the mufflers.
 
Thanks for the responses guys. If it makes a difference, the exhaust system is the stainless steel one from Moss. Got it installed about 6 years ago.

So do I need to replace the downpipe or can I just replace the flex pipe? Or does the new downpipe include the flexpipe? If so, it wouldn't require welding and is probably something I could do. Right? Just trying to figure out the most cost effective solution.

So are these not the correct downpipes from Moss (#1 and #2) or are you saying I can get them cheaper elsewhere?

https://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=28862

Thanks again for your help here!
 
Those are the correct parts, but one is N/A. It appears Moss has depleted their stock of individual exhaust pieces as they try to sell complete kits. If the rest of the exhaust is SS you should probably stay with that, although mild steel would work for many years. I'd call BCS and see what David says:

https://www.britishcarspecialists.com/html/about_us.html

Downpipes come with the flexpipe welded to it. You'll need to get your car on (very solid) jackstands or, preferably, a lift. Don't take any chances--quite a few people get squished under cars every year but, yes, you can do this. Since your downpipes are already separated, you just have to remove the 6 nuts on the exhaust manifold flange studs (3 on each). They take a 1/2-inch deep socket. It appears your exhaust is fairly new, so you shouldn't have much trouble getting the nuts off. Just try not to bunge the threads too much when you pull the downpipes off (wouldn't hurt to chase the threads before you put the new pipes on).

When you fit the new pipes, put some antiseize on the rear (by the flexpipe), then insert into the muffler. Easiest to do the inside pipe first since it mates to the rear manifold flange, then the outside. Wrangle the pipes so the mate up to the manifold and into the muffler opening just so, then install the nuts.

Note: the 'correct' nuts are brass; either buy new when you get the downpipes or I use steel with lots of antiseize. Recommend you do not reuse the brass nuts, they distort and the threads wear so they don't hold as well. You'll need flatwashers under the nuts; I recommend grade 8/hardened so they don't distort and lose clamping force.

Don't tighten the clamps at the muffler opening until you've replaced and adjusted the hangers, else you could bind the pipes. Then, when everything is the way you want it tighten the hanger hardware and finally the clamps.

Start the engine--be VERY sure you are on solid jackstands/lift--and check for leaks. If you can't get a good seal you can try some high-temp silicone around the pipes.

So, you'll need:
- 2 new downpipes (one inner, one outer or back/front)
- 2 manifold-to-downpipe gaskets
- 6 new brass nuts
- 6 flatwashers
- new hangers
- assorted nuts, etc. for hangers, clamps, etc. (can re-use old)
 
Good advice from Bob above. If the exhaust was replaced before, you may no longer have brass nuts. If they were replaced with steel, they may be seized to the studs, in which case you need to heat them up to get them off. This can be both tricky and dangerous so procede with caution.
 
Has anyone used muffler seal when connecting the pipes to the muffler? I've never been able to tighten the clamps enough to prevent exhaust leaks at the connections . I was going to try some seal next time I removed the system. What brand is recommended?
 
Thanks for the great write-up Bob! I really appreciate it.

I couldn't locate the hangers on the Moss website. Either they are called something different or sold somewhere else. Any ideas where to get them?

Thanks!
 
I believe it is Moss item 614-008, around $3.20 each. I think a total of 5 are needed. Get a couple of spares.
 
You're quite welcome, Brandon.

One more tip: it's easiest--and a lot kinder on your knuckles--if you can get a couple long extensions for your ratchet wrench to reach the stud nuts (the 'wobble' type are great). A 3/8" ratchet should be adequate; if you feel like you have to put a lot of torque on the nuts STOP--you'll just snap a stud off then you've got a problem (ask me how I know).
 
As for the hangers coming apart, I wrapped a loop of stainless steel lock wire around mine before putting them on to take some of the tension off the rubber. So far, they haven't come apart.
 
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