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rings,valves&guides

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I went to the machine shop today to check on the head. It seems when the car overheated last summer it gaulded the valves and guides. The machinist said that thought that the head got hot enough that it would boil the oil and would not allow enough cooling. Seem that this may be what happened.

I don't know if the guides went at the same time as the valves but they need to be replaced.

I figure that if the engine got that hot that there is good chance that the rings may be damaged as well. If I am going to change the rings I might as well replace the rod bearings.

I have priced the rings, bearings, valves and guides at Moss, British parts Northwest and the Roadster Factory.

Does anyone have an idea which of these might have the best parts for the price or is there another source? Anything else I should be on the alert for?

Thanks much, Pete
 
I can't judge where they draw the line for vendor bashing so have sent you a PM.
Tom
 
I used BPNW and TRF for all my engine parts over the years. This last time it was BPNW only because they had the cam and lifters that I wanted along with every other item in stock. Better deal to buy all from one.
 
If the engine got that hot, I bet the aluminum pistons got scuffed from expansion. You might consider pistons and rings as a set.
 
If the engine got that hot, I bet the aluminum pistons got scuffed from expansion. You might consider pistons and rings as a set.

I will check the pistons when I pull them to replace the rings. I will do that before I order the ring set.

Thanks everyone, Pete
 
never seen oil boil, seems to me the galling came from lack of lubrication. just my opinion though

Hondo
 
And if it was lack of lubrication, it's time to check everything including the crank and timing chain.
 
The low oil thought occurred to me also. The oil level has never been down to the add mark since I have owned the car. I am always worried (paranoid?) about all the oil levels because of the car "marking its territory". It is something that I check very often.

All of the problems started when the car overheated in traffic last summer. That is when I saw the oil coming from between the head and block. The oil pressure dropped at that time and never came back up to where it was before. I did not drive the car much after this except to make a run to check the leak after working on the PVC valve. I haven't had time to check further until now. That is why it has not been driven.

If there was an issue with the oil port it should be remedied when they are finished with the head. I squirted some oil in the oil port in the engine and it went down slowly. Should this port be open so that the oil should flow freely and rapidly?

The rocker shaft assembly was well lubricated when I removed the valve cover. The oil port from the head to the timing chain is clear. The timing chain was oily also. I checked the rod bearings with plastigage and they were in spec. Should I pull a main bearing cap and plastigage it? The engine is still in the car and I really don't want to pull it unless I must.

I am going to pull the pistons and check them out before I order the rings and if there is any doubt I will replace the pistons also. What about an oil pump since I am this far?

I do appreciate all the input.

Thanks again, Pete
 
I pulled the pistons this afternoon. Sure enough the crank was scarred. I guess I didn't look close enough when I checked with plastigage.

I am going to pull the motor and remove the crank to have it turned. I am also going to take the block and get the cylinders checked and scuffed and make needed repairs. I guess I will wait until I have this done before I order rings and bearings.

I did take the pistons to a couple of mechanics that I trust and they said they looked ok. No scuffing etc.

At least I know how much the damage is and what I need to do.

If my wife calls, tell her that an engine rebuild never runs more than a couple hundred dollars.

Thanks, Pete
 
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