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Richmond VA 1960 Bugeye Bringing Miss Eva back to life.

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H

hcallaway

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In the beginning:
I went to the Tidewater Area of Virginia on a quest to find a Bugeye. To even view what might be available took an act of congress.
We saw 4-5 in a warehouse with about 30 other cars. Ranging from 914-6's, multiple MGA's, TR6, Abarths, Midgets, TR7, TRV, Sumbeam Tiger Serial #001. A friend of a friend decided I may be worthy to own one. There were several issues, the cars were six inches apart, bad lighting and days to even move one outside to see what you were really getting. It took my British Expert about 5 minutes to say the bugeyes were extremely rough due to the elements and dampness. I headed home very disheartened. Within a mile of my home he told me there was a guy that had at least 3 bugeyes and he might be in the market to sell one. He did have 2 outside and 3 inside. I worked a deal on what appeared to be a fairly solid chassis and bonnet. The operative word is fairly. More to come on that front.

 
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This is the where all builds start from, you just didnt have to spend time taken the parts off. Body looks like a good platform to start from.

Is the motor stands width enough car will not roll over?
 
Looks pretty good...alot more solid than my Canadian specimen. Did it come with all the interior, driveline and suspension components?
Bill H.
 
Ooo we are interested! Welcome and more please
 
Bill H said:
Looks pretty good...alot more solid than my Canadian specimen. Did it come with all the interior, driveline and suspension components?
Bill H.
Click to expand...
All are available for the most part. My neighbor has per his statement enough to build 4-5 cars. So far so good.
We have an understanding. I also have a doner for disc brakes 1275 etc..
 
I have mine mounted about the same on the back and higher up on the front ( i used the front shock mount flat) and I need to use a small bar to bring mine around....with the engine stands I would recommend having a helper there while repositioning the car.
 

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Bill H said:
I have mine mounted about the same on the back and higher up on the front ( i used the front shock mount flat) and I need to use a small bar to bring mine around....with the engine stands I would recommend having a helper there while repositioning the car.
Click to expand...
Can you fiip yours upside down? Mine turns really easy. I connected both stand together and it does pretty good. I like yours a lot. Mine was just a quick fix. Harbor Freight 1000# stands. $15 in metal and $40 in nuts bolts and what I paid a friend to weld it up for the front frame horn attachment. I did not trust myself on this part.
 
I looked at soda blasting. Quotes were $160 per hour on site. $650, $750 and $2000-$2300. $1600 for acid dipping. Sand blasting $120 hour to $90. Had it done for $525. Fine sand low pressure. I kept getting mixed reviews on soda and acid. After painting seam and enclosed places tend to seep. I did see PPG does not recommend Soda blasting as a base for cleaning metal. Still after soda you will still have rust removal as best I can tell.



 
I got the bugeye about six weeks ago. Since I had it blasted I was worried about surface rust. I sprayed it as soon as I had a 60 degree day with sunshine.
Took a quart of Primer Etch and I guess you would call it an activator. Mixed in a 1 to 1 ratio gave me a 1/2 gallon to spray.

Harbor Freight $20 gun. Low CFM. First time spraying. It worked great once I figured out the gun has a two stage handle. Pull it and get air. Pull it harder and it picks up the paint and sprays. Took 10 min for me to figure out why it would not work.

 
Looks like you're off to a good start. Welcome aboard!
 
Here is how you get your rig to turn upside down. You'll need to remove the center leg. When you do that and add bigger wheels bolted to a 12" piece of 2x4 and the connected to the engine stand with some big U bolts you raise the body about 4-5" higher off the ground. In addition when you remove the center brace the engine stand will have its pivot point at 90° rather than sitting cockeyed like it does now. I used some electrical conduit on the outside to stabilize the rig so the ends stay parallel to one another. I used a 2 x 4 in the center bolted down low to keep the rig from bowing out. I'll post some pics tomorrow on how I did it. It's one of those a pictures worth 1000 words things. The pivot /balance point is about 9" below the battery shelf in the front. Bigger pneumatic wheels allow you to move things outside easier. 2 wheels need locks on them.
 
That bug eye has had quite a punch in the nose. The prior repair work probably did more damage to the metal than the original accident.
I don't envy your task, but I admire someone that can undertake projects such as these.
 
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