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TR2/3/3A Restoring a 54 TR-2 Long Door

Redoakboo

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I have just installed the new clutch slave cylinder and the new rod appears to be way to long? To make the connection, the lever is as far out as it can move. Do they make different length rods?

Dick
 

sp53

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A tr2 is a different system than I am used to. The tr2 has the older Lockheed system. Could you have stuff mixed up? Need some pics
 

TR3driver

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The pushrod is different between Lockheed & Girling, as is the way the slave cylinder mounts. I'm not sure of the difference in pushrods, but the Lockheed version might well be shorter, since the cylinder mounts closer to the lever.
 

CJD

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Here's is the way the set-up on a TR2 should look. Be aware that the later cylinder could have been swapped in, which would have a longer rod. If you have the the set-up shown, and the rod is still too long, you can either order a new one or shorten the one you have.

2DUVP3j.jpg
 
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Redoakboo

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Thanks John,
From your pic, my rod is several inches longer, the mount looks the same. Can you please send me your email address and I can send you some pic's.
I have never been able to down load pic's on this site?

Dick redoakboo@yahoo.com
 

sp53

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You probably need to resize your pictures. If they are bigger than a 3, the Forum server will not take them. Your device should resize to 2 with a click and resave. Most cameras take a 3+ picture--- I have no idea how some of the guys get all those big pictures to load. I would like to see your pics too. I wander around like the guy in the Beatles song, “Fool on the Hill,” so the forum for me is therapy…..
 

TR3driver

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John is doing the same thing I do. Upload the photos onto another photo sharing site like Imgur, then insert an IMG link in the post here.

Imgur is currently free (though who knows how long that will last), but you do have to create an account with them.
https://imgur.com/
Beware the time sink though, there are some funny images on there!
I9P1kSO.jpg


I'm not quite sure what's up with BCF. Basil said a long time ago that he was going to lift the limit on total attachment size, yet I keep getting "exceeds your quota" no matter how small the attachment. But no matter, I've gotten used to doing it the other way.
 

CJD

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Hopefully Dick can figure out how to post his pics...his car is very nice! He should be driving here shortly.

Dick, I sent an email, but it looks like you may just need to push the slave piston all the way forward with the rod, and then you will have enough adjustment to make it work. Of course, if the pics were with the piston already forward, then you will need a new rod, although I did shorten the rod for my TR3A pretty easily. I cut the plain end and rounded it using a drill and a bench grinder. The rounded end allows it to pivot in the piston cup a few degrees.
 
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Redoakboo

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I shorten the rod actually 1" and it now appears to be just right. It goes all the way forward and back now. I do not have the spring attached yet, need to order one with the anchor plate. I assume the normal position, with spring attached, is the lever full forward and the rod fully into the rubber cup. Then when you apply pressure, the rod moves all the way to the rear position? As soon as I get the spring attached and the hydraulic line connected, I plan to start the bleeding, putting DOT 5 in the master cylinder.
I am going to start with a gravity feed as everything is new, and dry. I will then start bleeding the rear wheels moving up to the front. Would it be better to bleed the clutch slave cylinder last, or does it matter?

Thanks for your comments, Guys

Thanks Guys
 

TR3driver

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With the spring installed, the piston and rod should be all the way forward; but the lever is positioned just a tiny bit forward from where it stops if you move it by hand to the rear. That tiny bit is the freeplay, which should be adjusted to 0.079" for the Lockheed version. The freeplay goes down as the clutch wears, so resetting it is part of normal maintenance.

Doesn't matter if you bleed the clutch first or last. I find that often I don't have to bleed it at all, just pumping it up a few times will work most of the bubbles out, and then the rest will work out over a few days of driving. Make a few quick strokes of the pedal (so you can feel that the clutch got actuated), then hold the pedal down for 10-20 seconds. Let it up and wait another 10-20 seconds. Lather, rinse, repeat.
 
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