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Restoration without going broke -ideas?

jerrysmg

Freshman Member
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Hi, I've got a 73 Midget I bought over a year ago and it's been sitting in my Dad's storage building since then. I would like to get it running and driving but I don't have a lot of money to spend on it. The previous owner had started restoring it and had stripped it of paint, and had removed the hood, fenders, doors, windshield, trunk lid, seats, and upholstery. He also cut out some rust on the driver's side A-pillar and fender. He got too busy with other things and when I bought the car it had been sitting in a corner of his shop since 1989. I would like to get it back together and in drivable condition. The body seems solid. The main rust spots being the front of the hood, the lower a-pillars, a small rust-through on the top of a rocker panel, and some holes in the floor that the previous owner patched by welding a piece over top without cutting out the rust. Any ideas on how to get this car on the road without spending a lot of money would be appreciated. My current plan is to take the body to a body shop to get the rust fixed (I do not have a welder) and to have a coat or two of epoxy primer applied. The rest of the work I would do myself. I plan to drive it in primer for several years while I save for a paint job. Do you folks have any thoughts on this? Good plan? Bad plan? How much do you think this will cost? Any comments would be appreciated.
 
I don't think primer provides protection from rust... but I'm sure someone with more experience will chime in.

As far as saving money... you could do what the PO of my car did and just not use any gaskets, and skip half the bolts. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif
 
see the discusssions elseware on this board about the $50 paint job. Find out if there is a vocational school/ college / prison near by that does body work. do like me, a bit at a time.
 
Signing up for this forum is an excellent start. The real secret to getting any car up and running is learning how to do as much of the work as possible yourself. My husband bought me a 77 midget a year ago and I just got it running about two weeks ago (When I got the car I just barely knew how to turn a wrech.) When I got the car, it didn't run, had a rod knock, no carpet, upolstery trashed. I had to take a job tutoring in the afternoons, found a local LBC guy who had lots of patience, and spent hours reading the back posts on this forum (The new WIki is going to be awesome) I have gotten midget parts for Mother's day, Anniversary, Christmas and birthday presents. My friends and family chip in for the latest "wish list" This forum has info about body work, upholstery, paint, and every detail of the motor.
If you are not an e-bayer, sign up but be careful about Midget parts...they are not always correct on e-bay but I used the photos often to see how things should look or if parts were missing. . Check out the supporting vendors section of this site too.
Most of all....do not get in a hurry. This is a hobby. Keep repeating that mantra and enjoy the time spent in the garage.
Good Luck! (And remeber we love pictures!!!!)
Terri
 
Vicky Brit sells just the lower A pillar parts, so you don't have to buy the whole A pillars and its not too pricey. Harbor freight sells a flux core mig welder for under $200 which might be cheaper than what you will pay to have the work done. If I got all the bodywork done then I would paint it. If they are going to primer it, might as well let them shoot is with paint. The cost of the paint is not whats high, Its all the prep and everything, including the primer.
 
Welcome to the forum!!!!!!!! This is best place to start on your quest to a running car. The resourses here are incredible. If you have a question, somebody here has an answer. Terri is right, you have begun an adventure which with the right attitude will bring alot of pleasure if you can laugh and learn from your mistakes. And believe me, we all make them.
 
If you want to fix the car correctly on a budget then the best way to cure the rust is to buy a rust-free Midget body from California or Arizona and swap your parts out- rust repair is expensive but old rust-free Midget bodies aren't.
Bill
 
Primer will hold the rust away until the part becomes wet. Then it will not work any more.

I read in your profile that you do construction and farming. That's perfect! You need to learn to weld!

It will cost a bit to get the rust taken care of at a pro shop. You can otherwise do like Kim says and get a cheap mig welder. You will save a lot of money on your car in the long run, and you will learn something that you can make money on later.

You will also need an angle-grinder with some cutting disks and some work gloves and goggles. I'll bet you have some of that stuff around already.

Get the A-post repairs from Victoria or Moss or somebody. Practice on some spare metal and existing rust holes. Then fit the a-posts in, tack them in place and check the door fit. When all is right weld it solid.

I know, this is a little much for right now. But it won't be long before you have the hang of things and you can put the body together right. The best part with the angle grinder and welder is that if there is a mistake, just cut it out and try again.

Good luck, and welcome to the forum!
Donn
 
I set myself on a monthly budget that was agreeable with the wife (and also Dave Ramsey /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif ) I have been working the car over for the last few months on $100.00 a month...some months I dont spend it all...some months I dont buy anything so I can save up for a major purchase. So far so good.

It was suggested to me awhile back that the best thing to do is get it running first...you are alot less likely to loose interest that way.

In my situation the PO had disassembled most of the car and did not catalog or mark ANYTHING!! all of the fasteners were thrown in a coffee can and left to rust. Most of the drive train was held in place by bolts that were finger tightened. I am now having to go over every single bit of this car and make sure that things are tightened down properly and reinatalling all of the pieces that were in the 4 cardboard boxes.

I would reccomend setting up sort of a plan / schedule...doesnt have to be too detailed but just a list of the things that you want to accomplish on the car and by when.

In my situation I started out by listing the major components of the car and then infilling the various thing that I knew that needed to be done and the things that I wanted to update.

I have an ongoing thread on my '65 sprite

https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcforum/u...true#Post264840

and more photos on my website.

best of luck and welcome!
 
First: Welcome to the fold!

Next: all of the above. You've apparently decided to dive into the Deep End of the pool. Congrats. It'll take patience, some study and a bit of investment... in both money and your time. If you're resolute to see a project to completion, you're ahead already. The cars are actually not complex, you've got to view them as "systems" which are "flying in mass formation." Viewed as such, you may start to assess one system at a time and proceed to make that sub-set of "total car" as good an example as your time, patience and funds allow.

It's not insurmountable, just daunting. Start with whatever you feel is the most difficult part! Knob thru that and it'll both reward you with confidence and the knowledge that the rest will be EASIER!

..and above all: don't QUIT!!! Your PO left YOU with the result of that plan! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif


Epoxy primer is a wonderful thing, BTW. Expensive but wonderful.

Stay with it (and us) and you'll be grinnin' with BUGS in yer teeth! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/jester.gif
 
I find it helpful to have a small (2 x 3) whiteboard on the garage wall with a list of what I need to do. Also, don't forget the digital camera. Take all kinds of pictures before you begin to take things apart and every "layer" as you go. I filed these in folders on my laptop and they were invaluable months later when I needed to reassemble something that I had removed to get to something else. (Where did that part go?)
 
Thank you everyone for your comments and advice. You gave me some good ideas to think about. The reason behind getting a professional to fix the rust is that it will probably get done faster and there will probably be less chance of a mistake. I figured that with the small amount of rust I have the cost shouldn't be too great, but then again, that should make it easier for me to do it myself. I remember reading in a restoration book that regular primer is not waterproof, but I was under the impression that epoxy primer is. I see cars in primer on the road but maybe they have rust underneath the primer. Thanks again for your advice. I may try to post some pictures if I can figure out how to do that.
 
Epoxy primer ~could~ be polished and considered a top-coat! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif

It'll seal out moisture. Regular primers will absorb it.
 
Right, epoxy is the only way to go if you want to prime then delay the final paint for a while. Actually, I prefer it in all cases except where I can't properly metal-prep the surface first. Then I would use a self-etching primer. Even then, if it will be a while before painting, I would use am epoxy sealer over it.

I don't know that it can actually be polished but it is considerably glossier than lacquer primer. The attachment is a crop of my Prefect front wing. It and the wheel are PPG DP90, black epoxy primer. The valance and headlight are DP40, gray/green. Both are untouched, as they came out of the gun. Sadly, the car has not been touched for 8 years but the paint still looks exactly the same. Man if I can just get that shop built this spring.
 

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