TR6 REskinning TR6 Doors

[TR6oldtimer]

Wow, nice job. What hammers did you use, especially for the top curved areas?

 

[hondo402000]

just used a regulay hammer

 

[hondo402000]

Ok doors are done and it was not as difficult as some think, I welded the top portion of the skin to the door frame, all is well, now on to the hood

Hondo

 

[MDCanaday]

I have skinned hundreds of doors in the last 35 years.If you do not own a skinning hammer you may wish to farm out the tr4/6 door.The angle of the lower lip is too tight to the edge of the shell for a regular hammer to hit squarely.
If you can borrow one go ahead,its a walk in the park,mostly.
pointers......Get a small block of pine and wrap it with duct tape,use this as your dolly it will not damage the pristine finish of the outer skin.
de-rust your casing carefully and use a weld through primer.
as mentioned earlier, once crimped onto the casing,fit the door to the car!!!NEVER weld anything till it fits like a glove.
once fitted dress off the edges and mig weld the skin in place with a heat that doesnt penetrate the outer panel.stitch it every 4 or 5 inches.
buy a good sound deadener pad for the inside of the skin at a stereo shop it should self-adhere.
after the welds are dressed,etching ,priming and seam sealing are done before paint.Lastly the outer panel rustproofing is applied(waxoil,kent etc) it should flow into the crimped seam to seal it off.
if you try to do this with acetaline, be sure to get really drunk first,a poor excuse is better than none...
MD(mad dog)

 

[hondo402000]

Well MD where were you prior to me putting the skins on???? Well they dont weld pannels on any more now they use pannel adhesive so the stitch welding is not necessary, and is approved my Mercedes, toyota, yada yada, but on the TR6 door I welded the top where the skin meets the front and back inner door, and yes could have used a skinning hammer but once I ground the face of my hammer flat it worked just fine and I used a rubber sanding block as a dolly, I didnt put the doors on the car to test the fit, why you ask well when the top edge fits perfect there is no moving the pannel so why bother. Besides its a 38 year old car,. not going to be perfect, I bet its better than it was and since it was my Very first and second door skin, I did it my self!

 

[MDCanaday]

Yes its fine to use panel bonding on doors that were designed to have the necessary surface area to yeild a strong joint.IMHO the tr6 does NOT.So I would caution against it in this case.The other issue for the DYI guy is getting hold of the gun to dispense the glue,not cheap.
In any case I am glad it all worked out for you.......so far.
MD(mad dog)

 

[Simon TR4a]

I am sorry I didn't see your post earlier, i have a pair of excellent doors (from New Mexico) you could have had.
Sorry about that!

 

[tdskip]

Keep pressing ahead Hondo - been great to get updates from you on how this is coming along.

 

[hondo402000]

hopefully today the doors will go back on as will the front fenders and the new hood so I can spray primer sufacer on and start the block sanding process. Pics later today when all is back on

hondo

 

[GBRandy]

If you try to do this with acetaline, be sure to get really drunk first,a poor excuse is better than none...
MD(mad dog)

That is absolutely hilarious.......... You made my day.

 

[hondo402000]

Ok here is the final productwith the doors back on the car. I still need to adjust the doors a little more, they actually fit better now than when I took them off, but for now I can scuff the whole car and put primer surfacer on and start the block sanding process, future post will be either a new post or back to the repaint post

 

[hondo402000]

Drivers side