Hey - did you know if you click on the title of a thread it will take you to the first unread post since you last visited that thread?
but were afraid to ask: 
STOP!! Never post your email address in open forums. Bots can "harvest" your email! If you must share your email use a Private Message or use the 
smilie in place of the real @
Pretty Please - add it to our Events forum(s) and add to the calendar! >> 
TR6oldtimer
Darth Vader
Offline
Andrew Mace said:
And rebuilt their transmissions every 60k miles, their differential every 80k, their u-joints every 40k, their Lucas alternator every 50k and on and on...
Still love the cars..
-
Hi Guest!
If you appreciate British Car Forum and our 25 years of supporting British car enthusiasts with technical and anicdotal information, collected from our thousands of great members, please support us with a low-cost subscription. You can become a supporting member for less than the dues of most car clubs.
There are some perks with a member upgrade!**Upgrade Now**
(PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Share this page
And rebuilt their transmissions every 60k miles, their differential every 80k, their u-joints every 40k, their Lucas alternator every 50k and on and on...
Still love the cars..
Offline
/bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/iagree.gifTR3driver said:
And I wonder if the parts and expertise will be available in 2030 for early 1990s Civics and Corollas and such in the same way that parts and expertise are still readily available for most LBCs of the 1950s-1970s?
Friend of mine bought one of the original series Toyota MR2s a few years back...and went through h-e-double-toothpicks to rebuild a couple of brake calipers. Apparently one side simply was not available anywhere, so the one available rebuilt caliper was cannibalized to rescue the "unavailable" side! On a Triumph, that's a job for which I can almost certainly get needed parts and finish in a couple days....
YankeeTR
Luke Skywalker
Offline
A couple things will help our old cars stay new.
One is the new metalurgy and precision machining of quality parts. These old TR's were built on 1930's machinery with vastly greater tolerances and margins for error. New parts are built on better tooling with closer tolerances.
Second, the oils and lubes that we use today are of much higher quality than those of yesterday. Even the much-loved Castrol is no longer made from the oil of the castor bean (although synthetic oils used by the WWII Germans were!)...it's now mineral oil based. High quality oils will allow our engines to rev happily well into the future...with proper maintenance, of course!
One is the new metalurgy and precision machining of quality parts. These old TR's were built on 1930's machinery with vastly greater tolerances and margins for error. New parts are built on better tooling with closer tolerances.
Second, the oils and lubes that we use today are of much higher quality than those of yesterday. Even the much-loved Castrol is no longer made from the oil of the castor bean (although synthetic oils used by the WWII Germans were!)...it's now mineral oil based. High quality oils will allow our engines to rev happily well into the future...with proper maintenance, of course!
TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
Offline
I had a similar experience with a 1980 Chevy in 1995. Because of it's "sport" suspension option, rear shocks were simply not available. Nobody made them. I wound up having to modify the car to accept the shocks I could get.Andrew Mace said:
BTW, I also believe that items that wear out so quickly on our Triumphs are mostly due to poor quality reproduction parts (and partly on poor quality mechanics). Still, I think you should also keep in mind that these were never anything but "cheap" sports cars. A great deal of their original popularity stemmed from being affordable ... it's not really fair to expect the same level of engineering as a Jaguar or Alfa Romeo or BMW.
Fortunately, they are still cheap to repair today, we should count ourselves lucky. I bought an entire set of new chrome wire wheels for my Stag, for about what a friend paid for two restored original wheels for his Porsche (no reproductions available at any price).
OP
Tinster
Guest
Guest
Offline
"Fortunately, they are still cheap to repair today,"
I suppose the thickness of your wallet helps define
the term "cheap".
I must have a very thin wallet because it has cost me
an expensive $$ bundle and I still don't have an operational
vehicle.
D
I suppose the thickness of your wallet helps define
the term "cheap".
I must have a very thin wallet because it has cost me
an expensive $$ bundle and I still don't have an operational
vehicle.
D
tomshobby
Yoda
Offline
I will do that Rick.
As an update on this project.
I have made many searches and phone calls. The result is that I have found a high quality ceramic bearing with a stainless steel spring and a very good quality bearing/shaft assembly.
I ordered the parts and will see how they will fit and work for our application when they arrive.
I also have found a couple of other possible rebuild sources which I will check out.
I also found out from a bearing supplier that some of the bearing shafts from the Far East are as hard in the center as they are on the surface which makes them very brittle. Also the TIR (total indicated reading) run out on a water pump needs to be less than .004" and many of those from the Far East exceed that. The result is an out of balance load on a brittle shaft which is a recipe for disaster. I have found that we are not the only people to have found these problems.
Lastly, as I put together this information I will gladly provide the results to any LBC supplier that may want it.
I am also taking pictures and will provide a step-by-step documentation of the process of rebuilding the pump.
When I present this I will start a new thread. Be patient, It may take a week or two since I am putting my own TR6 back together also.
As an update on this project.
I have made many searches and phone calls. The result is that I have found a high quality ceramic bearing with a stainless steel spring and a very good quality bearing/shaft assembly.
I ordered the parts and will see how they will fit and work for our application when they arrive.
I also have found a couple of other possible rebuild sources which I will check out.
I also found out from a bearing supplier that some of the bearing shafts from the Far East are as hard in the center as they are on the surface which makes them very brittle. Also the TIR (total indicated reading) run out on a water pump needs to be less than .004" and many of those from the Far East exceed that. The result is an out of balance load on a brittle shaft which is a recipe for disaster. I have found that we are not the only people to have found these problems.
Lastly, as I put together this information I will gladly provide the results to any LBC supplier that may want it.
I am also taking pictures and will provide a step-by-step documentation of the process of rebuilding the pump.
When I present this I will start a new thread. Be patient, It may take a week or two since I am putting my own TR6 back together also.
OP
DougF
Guest
Guest
Offline
A follow-up to my water pump dilemma. The supplier admitted to a problem with the product a couple of years ago. They say the problem has been addressed. They have also replaced the unit.
I just don't know if I would trust it as a backup, maybe for a short term.
I just don't know if I would trust it as a backup, maybe for a short term.
OP
Tinster
Guest
Guest
Offline
So- Does this mean I need to purchase two spare
water pumps to carry around in the Crypt car to
guarantee I can make a 100 mile R/T?
BLARGH!!!!
d /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wall.gif /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wall.gif /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wall.gif
water pumps to carry around in the Crypt car to
guarantee I can make a 100 mile R/T?
BLARGH!!!!
d /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wall.gif /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wall.gif /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wall.gif
Interesting posts, I cant believe nobody has mentionrd TR3 front brake hose's. The ones I got from the farm state were made in India,different wrench sizes and made a bit different . Just the right size to rub on the upper ball joint,unbelievable. I had to put a rubber shield over it.
tomshobby
Yoda
Offline
The UPS truck just came and I now have a brand new made in Canada FAG pump bearing. Instead of the original with two ball races this has one ball race and one roller race. I also received a beautiful ceramic replacement seal. Cost of the seal is $1.75 and the cost of the bearing is $4.15. I also received assembly information.
I will re-assemble my original pump with these (hopefully this weekend) and put together a process description with pictures, part numbers, and sources to post. I will do that in a new post.
BTW Dale, my made in India pump will now be my spare, and I will store it in a hard to remember place.
I will re-assemble my original pump with these (hopefully this weekend) and put together a process description with pictures, part numbers, and sources to post. I will do that in a new post.
BTW Dale, my made in India pump will now be my spare, and I will store it in a hard to remember place.
vettedog72
Jedi Knight
Offline
I understand that some manufacturers and or distributors will "dump" parts that are recognized as defective into markets that will buy them. After a few shuffles they wind up in the market place at low or lower prices than they would have sold for had quality been met. On the other hand, many manufacturers will actually destroy parts that are discovered defective.
I learned this when I was rebuilding a 3.5l BMW motor. The new head gasket (from a well advertised after market company) had some sealer on it and not being acquainted with this I took it to the dealer and learned about the new improved replacement head gasket. The new improved gasket being used by the dealership did not leak oil out of the side of the gasket. However, the gasket I had purchased was genuine BMW built "parts"
I learned this when I was rebuilding a 3.5l BMW motor. The new head gasket (from a well advertised after market company) had some sealer on it and not being acquainted with this I took it to the dealer and learned about the new improved replacement head gasket. The new improved gasket being used by the dealership did not leak oil out of the side of the gasket. However, the gasket I had purchased was genuine BMW built "parts"
OP
Tinster
Guest
Guest
Offline
Tom,
That will be greatly appreciated.
Once you post that info, I'll order the parts to rebuild
the pump I have plus I'll order a spare TRF pump and rebuild
it with proper parts as soon as it arrives.
That should keep the DPO Pedro demons at bay for a while.
Thanks much-
dale
That will be greatly appreciated.
Once you post that info, I'll order the parts to rebuild
the pump I have plus I'll order a spare TRF pump and rebuild
it with proper parts as soon as it arrives.
That should keep the DPO Pedro demons at bay for a while.
Thanks much-
dale