• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

Replacing Wheel Studs

Share this page

Jim_Gruber

Jim_Gruber

Yoda
Country flag
Offline
Rear Hubs are off of Bugsy IV and hub studs have been given the PB Blaster treatment. Hubs were painted before I reinstalled them a few weeks ago so after soaking overnight I will wire wheel them to remove as much paint as possibke. I did try to snack one of the studs with lug nut turned flush with a direct shot with a 5 lb sledge and it did not budge. Will soak and reapply in am before I head to work. I read one long saga on mgexp about undersized wheel studs from one of the usual suspects. The repjacenent 2" studs came from Winners Circle and I was assured they would fit.

So before i begin flailing away with the sledge I'll happily take the advice if those who've been down tgis road before. Hammer them out on the car or use a press. My neighbor has one of those HF 20 ton presses in his garage if he hasn't sold it in the last few days(moving to FL soon).

Heat y/n. Pull the bearing y/n

yils and trucks appreciated. Same thing for front hubs as well. I had everything apart already this year. If only I'd known I need longer wheel studs with alloy wheels could have taken care of that before reassembly. Thanks.

ps trying not to screw this up so Bugsy can make it to local Dayton British Car Days next Saturday wearing his new wheels and tires.
 
Jim
surprised they are so tight
However I have don this several times using several methods.
If you can set up the hub horizontal over either an open vise, a large socket or a set of blocks and use the biggest hammer you have. Do not worry about putting a not or anything over the stud, there is no reason to save it. The hammer usually works
Or using a big socket on the back of the stud side put the stud/hub/socket in a big vise and just press it out.
If you are worried about the new stud turning, use some locktite green stud and bearing compound
 
Thanks Joe. I'll provide a full report.
 
Also, inspect them closely to be sure someone didn't weld it in place.
 
No dies not appear so but will double check.
 
Got studs punched out this am and used my buddies press to get new studs to seat. DS went in slicker that crap everything lines up and second side I can't get it to close the gap. Now I remember DUH. Axle is all of the way in I need to pull the hub to me. the Light Bulb came on finally. Ok now I can fix it in the AM tomorrow. **** short term Memory. Trevor told me that 2-3 weeks ago. Wheel looks really good on the DS.
 
Rear end all back together and wheels fit perfectly on the 2" studs. I remembers to 1) Reinstall the O Ring 2) reinstall the Paper Gasket 3) Peen over the lock tab on the big nut 4) Use Drums and old wheels to pull hub together with axle. I may have torqued / bent the hub as it does not want to close up to the axle nearly as well as the DS. Will see if I have a leak or not. Lots of Hylomar and will see. Torqued down the hub and wheel and am letting things set up for a few hours before I install the new wheels. Pics to follow once it's done and I can roll out into the sunshine. In the meantime waiting on a new wheel bearing for the front to replace one I accidentally destroyed. Found a missing ball bearing and it snapped back into the cage. May reinstall if I can get back together temporarily. Car show next Saturday and I have yet to get notice that parts have shipped from MOSS even though I ordered Friday night with Ground Express Shipping. Anyone ordered and installed their New Tapered Bearings Kit, appears as 1 kit at $69.95 covers both sides. Anyone know for sure. And what is the fit like.
 
Jim
I know that it is the general feeling of many of the people on the board that both the diff and hub gaskets that are commercially available are not any good. I am interested as to where this is coming from.
For 10 plus years I changed my diff 2-3 times a year depending on the track. I always used the Moss gaskets for both applications without any problems.
The diff gasket was always new but I could reuse the hub gaskets maybe 2-3 times before tossing them.
Just curious as to where this is coming from.
 
Diff gasket was a flimsy piece of paper so thin it could not even qualify as tissue paper. Current Hub gasket is a fairly thick piece of gasketmaterial, thinks 3-4 Manila file folders thick. Will see if what I've done in the past works as PS did not want to close up. Finally put the drum on and wheel and cranked down the Hub to pull the Hub out and towards the axle.

Front wheel studs measure 1 1/8". Need to get 1 5/8" studs to accommodate the new wheels and tires. Bugsy will go to the car show on Saturday minus new wheels. So for reference 2" is great for the rear vs stock 1.5" length. Front at least 1 5/8" for JBW 8 spoke allow wheels.
 
Joe, I think there is concern that with too thick of a gasket the axle will not clamp the outer bearing race and there could be an end float issue.
 
OK, I see where people are coming from. All I have to say is that I never had a problem changing out the diff 2-3 times every year for 10 plus years. Maybe they did not stay in place long enough to cause issues
 
Back
Top