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TR4/4A Replacing the hood/bonnet onto the body
- Thread starter malbaby
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Marvin Gruber
Yoda
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I've done it both ways. Easiest safest way by yourself seems to be hinges on hood then drop gently on with the short end of hinge folded or taped back, then put into place one at a time.
Marv
Marv
Geo Hahn
Yoda
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If you haven't already done so - this might be the time to install a back-up bonnet release in case the works get jammed or the cable breaks.
There are two basic methods: a short second cable into the RH footwell that pulls the lever and a metal rod with bell crank that is also pulled from the RH footwell.
There are two basic methods: a short second cable into the RH footwell that pulls the lever and a metal rod with bell crank that is also pulled from the RH footwell.
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I've done it with the hinges attached to the body first, but for the life of me I can't remember how - if I propped the hood "open", or ...??
Note, when bolting the hinges to the bonnet, there are "short" and "long" bolts. The short ones go in the side. If you put a long one in the side, the pointy end of the bolt puts a dent in the sheet metal. Ask me how I know...
Note, when bolting the hinges to the bonnet, there are "short" and "long" bolts. The short ones go in the side. If you put a long one in the side, the pointy end of the bolt puts a dent in the sheet metal. Ask me how I know...
charleyf
Luke Skywalker
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Your question should be "which is the LEAST DIFFICULT WAY to put on the bonnet". First I would never try to do it with only one person in fact three seems about right. I usually try to put the hinges on the car first and then mount the hood to the hinges. I have found it very difficult to get to the hinge to body bolts when working under what little is exposed with the hood on. Best to have two people holding the hood up and then put the bolts through the hinge into the hood. That has been my experience.
Charley
Charley
Marvin Gruber
Yoda
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Hold on! Which car are we talking about? I responded to hood installation on TR3, if its a 4, 250 or 6, then hinges on body first. I always have to do it by myself. I have a small rolling table that I use in front of the grill under leading edge of hood. I build up under the hood, blanket over wood 2x6's. That way The hood rests on table , I prop hood open and attach hinges to hood.
Marv
Marv
Vila
Jedi Hopeful
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I also installed the hinges to the hood/bonnet first.
I completed the installation while I was restoring my 1962 TR4 and before installing both the grill and headlights. I lowered the hood onto the rear pegs first then lower the front down into place with some terry cloth towels over the fenders and along the front, then installed the body hinge bolts and washers through the headlight openings.
As I recall, I did not tightened the bolts to attach the hinges to hood until after getting it in place so I could adjust everything before tightening any bolts. I don't believe I got all the bolts for the hinges to body initially. I believe I got two in each side and after tightening everything I raised the hood and then installed the last few bolts.
I completed the installation while I was restoring my 1962 TR4 and before installing both the grill and headlights. I lowered the hood onto the rear pegs first then lower the front down into place with some terry cloth towels over the fenders and along the front, then installed the body hinge bolts and washers through the headlight openings.
As I recall, I did not tightened the bolts to attach the hinges to hood until after getting it in place so I could adjust everything before tightening any bolts. I don't believe I got all the bolts for the hinges to body initially. I believe I got two in each side and after tightening everything I raised the hood and then installed the last few bolts.
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You've probably already fitted your bonnet, but just in case:
We did this recently. We were very careful. Everything was marked and I had two friends. What we learned, or definitely think we did, is that you should leave the hinges on the hood, have your helpers slowly lower the hood and do not try to fasten both bolts to the frame at the same time. Rather, let hinges dangle vertically and put the bolts first in the rear-most holes. Then, with the bonnet lined up properly and where it should be, continue to lower the bonnet, forcing the hinges to lower and rotate, and to align with the two forward holes--then put the bolts in there. Once relatively tight, check the alignment and closing clearances, set them correctly, then final tighten.
It sounds to me like Vila, above, followed the same procedure.
charleyf
Luke Skywalker
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This idea is way to late to help in this case but one might consider it for next time.
This works for doors, hood and trunks with inner hinges. If your present alignment is good and you need to remove that piece of body--- I drill two 1/8 inch holes in each hinge BEFORE I remove the body piece. These need to be spaced somewhere on the hinge so that you can get to them and use them to ALIGN that hinge back on the car when you put the body piece back on the car. Of course if you are removing the hinge from both ends then you would need to drill the two holes in each end of the hinge. Space the holes appropriately to help in their later use for aligning the hinge back on the car. When putting the body piece back on the car get the bolts in place and then use a 1/8" roll pins in each of the two holes and tighten down the bolts. Your alignment is complete.
Charley
This works for doors, hood and trunks with inner hinges. If your present alignment is good and you need to remove that piece of body--- I drill two 1/8 inch holes in each hinge BEFORE I remove the body piece. These need to be spaced somewhere on the hinge so that you can get to them and use them to ALIGN that hinge back on the car when you put the body piece back on the car. Of course if you are removing the hinge from both ends then you would need to drill the two holes in each end of the hinge. Space the holes appropriately to help in their later use for aligning the hinge back on the car. When putting the body piece back on the car get the bolts in place and then use a 1/8" roll pins in each of the two holes and tighten down the bolts. Your alignment is complete.
Charley
