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TR2/3/3A Replacing Lockheed Axle Seals 56 TR3

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mgedit

mgedit

Jedi Knight
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Just about to order new seals as both of mine have decided to develop leaks over the winter while in storage. Assume both axles have to come out completely to replace seals, or is it easier than I anticipate? Anyone done this and able to offer any suggestions/cautions? Any advice most welcome. Anything else that is worth replacing while I'm in there? Cheers, Mike
 
Mike, Although the Lockheed axles have had a reputation for bearing failure, I have to believe those cars that did were really pushed to their limits constantly. You should try to get your hands on a shop manual. At the very least you'll have to rent a good size bearing puller. At least these axles come apart relatively easy compared to the later tapered hubs. Anyway check the bearings and good quality replacements are not cheap. The does seem to be some confusion in the current parts books, but maybe they all carry the later part, which is what fits yours in any case. As soon as you can read the number on the bearing, try calling some bearing suppliers in your area. Maybe someone in your club has a parts washer or take it to a garage to get all the crud off the bearing. See if you can feel any spalling on the top of the race where all the pressure is and rotate slowly, enough times so that all the ball bearings make contact with that area. If it feels okay, then just relube and reassemble, but if it were mine I would rotate the race 180 degrees so you will be dealing with a less stressed part of the race. Punch mark or paint your top bolt for reference before removal. Have fun.
 
Mike, are you talking about the grease seals in the axle tubes?

Cheers
Tush
 
You can follow me through my axle rebuild...

https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/showthread.php?99644-Lockheed-Axle&highlight=Lockheed

The lockheeds don't have a grease seal, just a cup to hold the grease. The bearings tend to stick in the tubes...so you will have to take the center cover off and start the axles outward with a screwdriver from the pumpkin.

No seals on the brake back plates...but I used sealant there. Also, read the tech order on using sealant on the axle to hub splines.
 
There are grease seals fitted to the outside of the bearing in the outer housing half. That keeps the rear axle oil, which keeps the ball bearings lubed, off the drums. The cut away drawing in the shop manual shows the seal's guts, which was probably leather, along with the surrounding spring that holds it tight to the polished surface of the inner part of the hub that buts against the axle shoulder/flange that the hub is torqued up to. Am assuming we are talking rear axle here.
 
Thanks for the input guys. Been out all day. Will try to investigate early part of next week. I'm getting gear oil out ends of axle tubes, so that's what I'm trying to fix. Cheers, Mike
 
I guess what I wrote was a bit ambiguous. There is an outer seal, but there is no inner grease seal, as used on the later axles. Just inner grease cups" welded inside the asle tubes. There also is no seal for the outer bearing race...so using sealant on the outer race would be prudent, along with sealing the hub splines.
 
Just getting started on this today. Ready to try to pull the hub, but concerned about doing this correctly as I've read the cautions about stressing the hub and splines. Since I don't have Churchill tool M86, just wondering what others have used. Pictures of the puller setup you used would be very handy in trying to come up with something appropriate. Thanks, Mike
 
Hi Bob, yes have been reading that one. My axle is Lockheed brake system and different hub arrangement from Girling style on later cars. Cheers, Mike
 
OK ... have limited range of pullers. Just experimented with this, but think it is exactly what I'm not supposed to do. Only tightened enough to hold puller on hub, but it would be very hard to hold from turning with car on hoist and both back wheels off ground. Only thing I can think of using is maybe a large bearing puller or making some sort of clamp together ring that the puller to pull on behind hub, but not much room in there for anything with much meat. Wonder if TR6 style hub puller would work? Other ideas/suggestions most welcome. Cheers, Mike

Puller.jpg

TR6 hub puller

TR6 Puller.jpg
 
Just finished pulling the hubs. Used a TR6 hub puller. Fit nice and snug to the outer flange and the hub walked off easily. Lot easier than the fun of splitting TR6 hubs.

Used extra nut to protect threads, pipe wrench to turn screw, and old tire iron to hold things in place. Several days thinking and looking for appropriate puller, 15 minutes to do the job. Now will have to figure out how to push the hub back on when I get the seals for TRF and have them installed. Pictures for those who are interested.

Cheers, Mike

Nut.jpg

Hub Puller.jpg

Hub Removed.jpg

Splines.jpg
 
Nice pics...it looks like the leak was pretty small. The axles I have were caked with grunge from grease/oil leakage.

The hub goes back on easily using the nut. I can't remember, but you may have to start it with the thick flat washer removed to get enough bite, and once it is in a bit, the washer goes back on and torque it properly. How was your splined collar? It has slits that flex when the hub is tightened, and that's where it is common to get cracks started.
 
Good job Mike!
 
Bit further along. Both of the splined collars look OK to me, but I still have to give them a good cleaning. The right one had a rubber washer sandwiched under it. At first I thought it must have been a piece from a seal that had disintegrated, but I don't see how that could have happened. Anyone ever seen anything like this? Don't see anything in service manual or diagrams of rear axle that would suggest there is supposed to be anything like that there. Also don't understand why anyone would add washer there as it is a torqued joint. I plan to reassemble without any rubber in there unless there is a good reason not to do so.

Cheers, Mike

Left.jpg

Right.jpg

Right_2.jpg
 
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The rubber was an attempt to seal the splines...which was a problem with this axle all the way until production switched to the taper axles. The final solution before giving up was to use a rope of what looks like butyl rubber as a sealant. Here is the TO...



 
Thanks John. Assume Prestik is unavailable. Guess some other sealant (like Permatex high temp RTV) might be used and just squeezed in there before adding collar. Anyone experimented with this? Cheers, Mike
 
I used RTV Black, but I have not run the axle yet.

I think the closest to original prestik would be windshield beading....that nasty black stuff that is round, comes in a roll, and sticks to everything it touches. Most paint supply stores carry it. I've used it enough to know I'd rather avoid it, but it is a great sealant that would squeeze into the tiniest space.
 
i am sorry if I put up this old post but I have a question, is possible to replace the axle bearing without dismantle the brake, after the hub is removed the bearing is reachable by a puller even if the axle shaft is still there?
 
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