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I will be attempting my first ever major fix at some point in the next few weeks (I need to clear out a few days in a row in my schedule). I am asking for any tips that you experts could provide that might aid me as I replace my head gasket. Are there any special tools/supplies that I should make sure I have on hand before I unscrew the first bold? I live in the middle of nowhere so I don't really have the option of "running to my local auto parts store" to pick up anything. I appreciate any help you can provide and will update the progress as I continue.
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Replacing Head Gasket help
- Thread starter tfrisoni
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dklawson
Yoda
Offline
There are obvious things you should have on hand...
Oil and filter for an oil change,
A catch pan for drain oil,
A catch pan and storage bottle for old antifreeze,
Fresh antifreeze,
A new top radiator hose,
Perhaps a new thermostat and thermostat gasket,
A decent torque wrench,
A scraper to remove bits of the old gasket,
Bulk gasket material,
Of course... a new head gasket,
A typical assortment of sockets and wrenches,
A digital camera and note pad to keep track of each step as you go,
A paint marker,
A sheet of clean cardboard to put parts on.
I'm sure there are other things but this is what comes to mind.
If after you remove all the bolts/studs the head refuses to come off, do not pry on it. Remove the rocker gear and turn the engine over on the starter (a head stud or two loosely installed). The compression should unseat the head.
Oil and filter for an oil change,
A catch pan for drain oil,
A catch pan and storage bottle for old antifreeze,
Fresh antifreeze,
A new top radiator hose,
Perhaps a new thermostat and thermostat gasket,
A decent torque wrench,
A scraper to remove bits of the old gasket,
Bulk gasket material,
Of course... a new head gasket,
A typical assortment of sockets and wrenches,
A digital camera and note pad to keep track of each step as you go,
A paint marker,
A sheet of clean cardboard to put parts on.
I'm sure there are other things but this is what comes to mind.
If after you remove all the bolts/studs the head refuses to come off, do not pry on it. Remove the rocker gear and turn the engine over on the starter (a head stud or two loosely installed). The compression should unseat the head.
Gerard
Luke Skywalker
Offline
Replace the bypass hose to the water pump while you are at it and DO NOT use the accordion hoses that you can buy. Use a good piece of reinforced heater hose or silicone hose instead. It'll save you some grief down the road.
If any of your head studs are questionable, replace them. Some feel they shouldn't be reused at all, but that's up to you. There are two different torque settings, make sure you replace with the appropriate ones.
Make sure to re-torque the head and re-adjust the valves after a couple warm-up/cool-downs too.
If any of your head studs are questionable, replace them. Some feel they shouldn't be reused at all, but that's up to you. There are two different torque settings, make sure you replace with the appropriate ones.
Make sure to re-torque the head and re-adjust the valves after a couple warm-up/cool-downs too.
Spridget64SC
Jedi Trainee
Offline
Brake cleaner
Shop rags or good quality paper towels
Anti-seize paste (use on the manifold gasket to prevent sticking)
Stud remover/installer (in lieu of the double nut method)
Wire brushes to go in a hand drill for cleaning the block, head and manifolds.
Silver paint for the head gasket. Spray the head gasket with a couple coats before installing. Racers do this quite often with their head gaskets.
Cheap oven cleaner for degreasing the really crudded up items.
Payen Gasket set. Best stuff. Don't forget the valve cover gasket and the rubber grommets on the top of the valve cover.
Use the valve springs to help break the head loose. Remove the 3/8" head stud nuts first, the valve springs and rockers will work together to lever the head off the block. Then remove the 5/16" valve train nuts (1/2" socket) to remove the rocker assemble and pushrods. Use cardboard with holes to hold the pushrods in order.
Clean head studs and threaded ends with wire brush. Light oil on threads and torque 3/8" stud nuts to 50 and 5/16" to 25. Smooth steady pulls. Head studs go 25/40/50. Rocker studs go to 25 at the first head stud pull. Rocker pedestals can work with less, but not less than 15.
Clean everything. Inspect everything. Read the shop manual over and over. Look at all the figures. Post here if you have any questions.
Here at Road America in Elkhart Lake. Changed a blown head gasket myself last Thursday evening on a 1275 LPHP. Used Rustoleum Smoke Gray for the AF460 head gasket. No silver in the driver's trailer. Worked just fine.
Good Luck,
Mike Miller
Shop rags or good quality paper towels
Anti-seize paste (use on the manifold gasket to prevent sticking)
Stud remover/installer (in lieu of the double nut method)
Wire brushes to go in a hand drill for cleaning the block, head and manifolds.
Silver paint for the head gasket. Spray the head gasket with a couple coats before installing. Racers do this quite often with their head gaskets.
Cheap oven cleaner for degreasing the really crudded up items.
Payen Gasket set. Best stuff. Don't forget the valve cover gasket and the rubber grommets on the top of the valve cover.
Use the valve springs to help break the head loose. Remove the 3/8" head stud nuts first, the valve springs and rockers will work together to lever the head off the block. Then remove the 5/16" valve train nuts (1/2" socket) to remove the rocker assemble and pushrods. Use cardboard with holes to hold the pushrods in order.
Clean head studs and threaded ends with wire brush. Light oil on threads and torque 3/8" stud nuts to 50 and 5/16" to 25. Smooth steady pulls. Head studs go 25/40/50. Rocker studs go to 25 at the first head stud pull. Rocker pedestals can work with less, but not less than 15.
Clean everything. Inspect everything. Read the shop manual over and over. Look at all the figures. Post here if you have any questions.
Here at Road America in Elkhart Lake. Changed a blown head gasket myself last Thursday evening on a 1275 LPHP. Used Rustoleum Smoke Gray for the AF460 head gasket. No silver in the driver's trailer. Worked just fine.
Good Luck,
Mike Miller
Great advice guys, thanks! With all of this info, I think I am going to give myself a week to map out everything I need (and allow for shipping time for some of these parts) and then get to work. I am hopeful that I can get her running so I can get out and enjoy the fall colors before the long Wisconsin winter sets in.