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TR2/3/3A Replacing Differential Tail Oil Seal TR3

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mountainman

mountainman

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I am trying to replace a leaking differential tail oil seal on a TR3
and from what I read in the Haynes Manual the whole
differential has to be dismantled. Oh geez, this seems like a lot of extra work. Has anyone done this a easier way?
Many Thanks
Greg
 
Are you talking about the pinion (input) shaft seal ? Just remove the cotter pin & nut, then tap the flange off (or use a puller). Carefully pry the old seal out (don't gouge the cavity in the housing) then tap the new one into place.

Clean up the sealing surface of the flange with crocus cloth. If you can't polish away the groove left by the old seal, I'd suggest using a Speedi-sleeve to renew the surface. Give it (and the seal lip) a generous coating of grease or assembly lube before you tap it back into place. Torque the nut and insert the pin, etc.
 
Yes,Randall That's the one. I am trying to get the old girl(1959)back on the road. She been idle for almost 11 years. I am 62 yrs young myself and this is my first attempt at restoring a car. I hope you are never too old to learn. One more question if I may. What is a Speedi-sleeve? This question shows my inexperience. Thanks so much.
Greg
 
mountainman said:
Yes,Randall That's the one. I am trying to get the old girl(1959)back on the road. She been idle for almost 11 years. I am 62 yrs young myself and this is my first attempt at restoring a car. I hope you are never too old to learn. One more question if I may. What is a Speedi-sleeve? This question shows my inexperience. Thanks so much.
Greg
Click to expand...

Speedi Sleeve

By the way, I'm 62 years young myself and started my restoration three years ago. It's almost done. This is the only car I've ever restored, and I have learned an awful lot along the way. This is a very helpful forum. There is always someone that can answer just about any question you throw out.
 
Basically a very thin sleeve of stainless steel that you tap into place over the sealing area. Comes with a flange on one end that can be broken away after installation (if necessary) and an installation tool (basically another sleeve that slips over the first sleeve and pushes on the flange).
Thin enough that it can be used with the same seal. They come in an assortment of diameters and lengths; so measure the diameter of the sealing surface of the flange before you go try to buy one. There are some TR applications listed in the CR book, but I don't recall if that one is there or not. The book will list a range of diameters that each sleeve will fit; but I've found that you can go a few .001" larger by using Loctite to hold the sleeve in place (and seal between the sleeve and surface).

Check around at the full-line auto parts stores in your area. I found a NAPA store that can order any of the CR sleeves (took 3 days to get one to fit the Stag damper); but the other NAPA store couldn't even order them.

There are other options of course, including having the flange welded and ground; not tapping the seal all the way in (so it rides on a different area of the flange); or using a spacer between the flange and bearing (for the same reason). But the Speedi-Sleeve is easy and sure (if a bit expensive).

You guys are way ahead of me, I just turned 53 and I've never restored a Triumph. Just tried to keep an assortment of them on the road for the last 35 years or so, usually on a very limited budget.
 
I used a dremel to drill two small holes on either side of the pinion seal (put grease on the drill bit to keep all of the metal chips from flying about).
Then carefully screwed two steel screws in a few turns and used a slap hammer to alternately pull one side then the other until out.
I did use a speedi sleeve and now the diff only leaks around the circumference of the rear cover gasket (I'll get to it).
 
This is good timing, as my plans are to do just this job tomorrow morning. I have been putting it off for some months now, but next month I am going to Ireland on a rally, so really want to get the diff oil tight before then. If I do manage it, I will let you know.
 
Thanks for the help. I feel alot more comfortable tackling this job now. Nick, let us know how you got along with yours. I won't be getting my seal till next week.
Thanks again
Greg
 
Hate to admit this Greg, but when I jacked the car up there were no drips of oil on the bottom of the diff and where it had been parked for two weeks there were no marks on the garage floor! I therefore chickened out of the job. It was losing about 1 drip per journey last year. I had previously nipped up the rear diff cover as it had been leaking too, but this seemed OK this time! The diff was nice and full, so I may be looking for advice from you in the future!! :laugh:
 
NickMorgan said:
Hate to admit this Greg, but when I jacked the car up there were no drips of oil on the bottom of the diff and where it had been parked for two weeks there were no marks on the garage floor! I therefore chickened out of the job. It was losing about 1 drip per journey last year. I had previously nipped up the rear diff cover as it had been leaking too, but this seemed OK this time! The diff was nice and full, so I may be looking for advice from you in the future!! :laugh:
Click to expand...
Great! I will let you all know how I get along with mine.
Greg
 
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