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Replacing Clutch Master and Slave Cylinders

Ok, I replaced the slave cylinder today with a new one from Moss, with no luck...The clutch pedal still has zero resistance and I cant shift out of neutral...So, I guess it was the master cylinder that was bad...Im thinking I should just get a new one rather than try to rebuild it because the bore is most likely pitted just like the slave cylinder was...
 
Have it rebuilt by Whitepost or Apple. Much cheeper and excellent work. Yep they do put in new sleave and piston, etc etc.
 
Ok guys, I think the problem now is just air in the system and maybe the master cylinder is still ok..today, I removed the bleeder screw from the new slave cylinder, and no fluid came out at all...I filled up the clutch reservoir to the top and kept pumping the clutch rapidly, and alls I hear is air noise and just a tiny little bit of fluid going back and forth at the beginning of the red tube that exits the master cylinder (i.e. looks like a big air bubble)...So, it looks like there is massive air in the line, which isnt permitting the fluid to reach the slave cylinder..How do I get the fluid to reach the slave (i.e. create a vacuum somehow to suck the fluid down and make a syphoning effect)???

I think the problem really was my original slave cylinder because my old one had a big tear in the rubber diaphragm that the little pushrod slides into, thus, the fluid leaked out and no clutch pedal resistance anymore...
 
You can make your own pressurized bleeder out of garden sprayer. I tried that but didn't like it. I think if I would try a Miti Vac next time around
 
Yep, thats my next move..Im gonna get a Mityvac, crack open the bleeder on the slave cylinder, and pump the fluid into it until the fluid starts to come out of the reservior..That should definitely get rid of all the air...Thanks..
 
Ok, I bought a MightyVac and it didnt work!

First I loosened the bleed port on the slave cylinder, hooked up the mightyvac to it and tried to make it pump fresh fluid up into the master cylinder through this bleed port and it didnt work. I then tried suction through this bleed port and no fluid got sucked. Then I totally disconnected the line where it connects into the slave and tried to make a vacuum, and the vacuum line just collapsed when I pumped the MightyVac. It looks like the master cylinder piston must be stuck and not permitting the fluid to fully go through either way??!! Does that sound right??? I really dread having to replace the master since that one mounting bolt looks impossible to get to (its kind of half-way hidden right next to the frame of the pedal box)!!
 
I had a similar problem - even with a pump (wasn't a mighty vac - but same thing, no luck) my MC was too pitted and thus the fluid was not bubbling out.

I bought a new MC and it took seconds to bleed. I know I sound like a broken record on this but I was able to remove the bolts and bleed it by holding it up and rocking it. I used new bolts reassembling but they were the same size - I got a 1/4 drive socket on it and it was easy after that.

sure wish I lived closer

BTW the way I could tell was pushing in the clutch but it not returning
 
Let me tell you about that bolt.

Yep, I thought it was impossable as well.

Found that a 1/4 inch drive rachet worked just great. Enjoy.
 
Try this, Disconnect the line from the MC and pump fluid directly to the Slave cylinder from the disconnected line. If you get fluid at the slave then it is the MC. If you dont...........
Then then there is a problem down stream.
Also try putting a cup under the MC and pump with no line connected anything come out? Can you vacum direct from the MC with the line disconnected?

Just a couple ideas....
Dan
 
Guys, I truly still cannot get to that bolt and its driving me nuts! The edge of the pedal box metal gets in the way, in addition to the actual body of the master cylinder..I miraculously was able to get a wrench in there and was only able to move the bolt like 1/2 mm, and then thats it (I cannot reposition the wrench back on to loosen the bolt now)..What exactly is this 1/4 in. ratchet that you speak of, because there isnt any type of ratchet that would ever fit in that small space! The only thing that MIGHT be able to work that I can see is a box wrench in which the end is angled so as I can get to the bolt and hopefully have enough room for it to grab the bolt...Such as this: https://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200304153_200304153?cm_vc=C5503

Oh, and also, exactly what size is that nut that holds the master cylinder onto that threaded stud? I removed the other nut, and it seems the 1/2 in. wrench is the closet fit (but had a little bit of play still)..I cant imagine what would happen if I strip the other bolt, then id never be able to remove it!!!

Anyone??
 
Finally!! I got it out by grinding down a wrench and slowly slowly finally able to remove it. I installed the new master cylinder and bled it with no problems and everything works normal now..The only little thing that I didnt like was that the reservoir of the replacement master cylinder I got from Moss is tooo close to the brake master cylinder reservoir and the cap touches it when I try to close it..Other than that everything works great, now I can finally get to drive the car!!
 
wooo hooo congrats
 
Well done.
 
Oh No!!! Ok, I was driving the car all day yesterday with no clutch problems (about 75 miles), then at night when I was returning home, my clutch didnt work anymore! I ended up driving it home shifting without the clutch (i.e. shift at the precise moment)..I grinded the gears a few times but managed to limp back home! I checked the reservoir and it was full and didnt notice any leaks anywhere...I havent had a chance to look over anything yet, but what can the problem be now??! Is there air in the system somehow or is it a defective master cylinder? The clutch pedal has still a little bit of resistance, but doesnt work at all...I also had replaced the slave cylinder with a new one...
 
Maybe the main seal on the clutch side gave it up already due to a rough spot in the bore. My old master would seem fine for a while then suddenly fail when the seal got torn up too bad (on a pitted spot in the bore).
 
My first thought is Master Cyl as well.
 
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