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Replacing 3.8L cylinder head studs

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algj

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hi,
this is my first post. i was wondering about replacing the cylinder head studs on my 3.8L S1. i think they've been torqued too many times and they're getting somewhat corroded, so i plan to replace them with the head in place. any thoughts on best place for buying replacement studs and do i coat the block-end threads with anything (halomar, anti-seize, ??) before installing? i can't seem to find the answer to question #2 anywhere in the literature, including the factory manual. they do seem to extend into the water jacket at that end.
al,
'63 S1 FHC
 
I.d think you'd want to remove the head rather than doing them with it in place. For one thing, you may lose sealing along the head gasket from the loosening and retorquing of the head. Another is that the only portion of the studs you have to get ahold of are the threads on the ends and if you're not careful you could damage them.

As for sealing the block ends, shouldne be necessary since the 3.8L doesn't pass through the block into the water jacket like the later 4.2L does.
 
mike,
thanks for the quick reply. if i do change them out, i was going to use the 2-bolt locking on the upper end threads to get them out. will replace one at a time, using the factory torque sequence.
al
 
There are a couple of studs that are "fatter" on the bottom to act as dowel pins for gasket/head location. I don't think they will come up through the holes.
 
The fatter dowels are right and as the age of the car you will probably ruin the waterjacket seal in the process. Removal of the head is not that hard and will also show you the condition of the valves and cylinders.
 
You'll probably find also that if it's never been apart that you won't be able to get enough torque on the ends of the studs since they can attah to the head from corrosion. I took a 4.2L apart and getting the head loose from the studs took a couple wooden blocks and bottle jacks to push it free due to all the junk around the studs.
 
Oddly enough, I went to a Jag Club Tech Session over in Seattle a couple of years ago, and they had an engine out (E-type, 4.2, I think) and to get the head off they pulled the studs. Watched 'em do it.
One broke, but once the head was off, the stub came right out.

I have read there is a tool someone made that fits into all the plug holes at once, tightly, and has threaded bits that press against the ends of the studs.

Never seen it, just read about it.
 
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