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Replace oil cooler?

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Baz

Baz

Yoda
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I'm replacing the radiator and pretty much all the cooling system next week, while the radiator is out, would it be a good time to replace the oil cooler too? It's not showing any symptoms of being bad or anything (except the violent heat coming through the firewall and roasting my feet). I don't know what to look for to determine if it should be replaced or not?
 
Baz, inspect it for any signs of balooning on any of the tubes. If all looks well there, check for bent fins, and gently straighten as necessary. After that, I think all I would do is flush it out. A good overnight soak in degreaser, such as plain mineral spirits should clean out any accumulated crud. Then just blow it out with about 60 psi air pressure, reinstall and go. Make sure you use a backup wrench on the cooler fittings while removing and intalling the hoses, lest ye twist them from the cooler body.
Jeff
 
My thanks Jeff.
Newbie question alert.....
I'd have to do a drain right? remove sump plug and filter and the like? There is no ballooning and I'm trying desperately to get the operating temp down. The oil press usually reads 80-85 at start up and for the few miles, then settles into a range between 55-65. My logic was that if there is pressure in a closed system, there is heat. Maybe the problem lies somewhere more sinister, but if a good flush is cheaper and easier, so be it.
Leads me to a follow up question.....
The oil recommended is really heavy, is there an alternative synthetic on the market that anyone uses and has good results from?
 
Baz, if all you are doing is pulling the cooler, there is no need to drain the sump or remove the filter.
The pressure in a closed system has nothing to do with the heat. The heat comes from the heat rejected by the engine. A certain percetage of heat goes into the cooling system, some into the oil, some out the exhaust, and some goes to the atmosphere, through the walls of the castings.
If you are replacing the radiator, I'd flush the block out well with the strongest available flushing compound I could find. Accumulated deposits in the water passages will measureably reduce the ability of the heat from combustion to be transferred to the coolant, as the deposits essentially act as an insulator. If you're not replacing the hoses, inspect them carefully for any soft spots, or signs of collapse. Pull the water pump, and make sure the impeller is in good shape. Erosion of the impeller fins will reduce water flow, leading to higher than normal water temps.
What kind of temperatures are you normally seeing on the gauge, and is your gauge accurate?
Change the thermostat to a 180 degree version, if you haven't already.
Probably more than you wanted to know, but I don't have cooling problems on any of my cars, including the ones out west that operate quite often in 100 degree or better ambient temperatures.
The recommended oil, and my oil of choice, is Castrol 20W50. It's always served me well. There are several synthetics on the market that will work. I run Red Line 10W30 in my daily driver Volvo, and their racing oil in the race engine. Mobil 1, Valvoline Synthetic, Castrol Syntec, and Royal Purple are all good oils, as well.
Jeff
 
No such thing as 'Probably more than you wanted to know,' all knowledge is priceless. Not draining the oil system is a relief. I don't recall an oil cooler on my 1275 mini...
As for the cooling system....I'm getting new thermostat (160-already ordered, whoops! no winter driving) water pump and all new hoses and tubes. $300 is good insurance for all new components in the system. Ahem, now the embarrassing part....
My temp gauge is u/s. I did buy a new dual gauge, removed the dsah and about had a heart attack at the snakes wedding in there, I put the dash back on, put the gauge on the seat and hoped it would install itself. It's too hot to drive this week, for me, not the car, so I promise myself I will get to that this week.
My temp gauge right now is my feet, after five miles the firewall feels like a furnace. In my opinion, that's too hot.
 
Baz, no need to remove the dash to replace the gauge. Maybe pulling the drivers seat would help, but I can't imagine pulling a dash for a gauge replacement.
And, if memory serves, a Chevy thermostat fits. Take an old Midget thermostat with you the next time you go to the parts store, and match it up.
While I agree that hot feet are no fun, I'd want some temperature numbers before I started changing parts. You may want to look at the proximity of the exhaust to the floor, and see if that's not a contributing factor. These things weren't very well insulated from the factory, so some additional insulation may help.
Jeff
 
Barry - not sure if you've had LBC cars before, but on the chance that you have not it is pretty common for them to through off a lot of heat from the engine and transmission that produce, um, toasty passengers.

In software we'd say that this wasn't a defect, it was a feature to keep your feet warm in the winter! LOL.

Anyway, there are lots of use who has placed heat reflective material ranging from dynamat to water tank insulation foil (Home Depot sourced) and it can make a BIG difference.

I'd separate the engine heat from the engine actually running well in my planning and upgrades, since it is highly likely that even after your updates your feel will still be toasty.

I'm sure others will have more sage wisdom to offer....
 
Ton, ever drive an original 427 Cobra? Now, <u> there's </u> hot feet! Not to mention every other part of your lower extremities.
Jeff
 
Heat mat is on my wishlist for the interior renovation this winter, and I apologise for the lack of numbers in the temp dept.
My aim is to replace major systems one at a time as time and $ permits, cooling offers a relatively cheap and 'esay' system to replace and a good opportunity to get my hands dirty and learn something.
I know poor insulation is a quirk of LBC, bu as a native Welshman, I don't do heat very well.
Jeff, you're saying the dual gauge can come out from the front? Disconnect the nasty pipe at the radiator, unplug the oil pressure pipe at the gauge and pull it through? If so, I'm on that today.
 
Yessir. There's a clamp on the backside of the gauge that must be removed by taking off the two knurled nuts on the studs. There may be a ground wire attached to one of the mount studs. Just a ring terminal over the stud, held on by the knurled nut. Then, carefully thread everything through the firewall. You will have to remove the firewall grommet at the pass through point, and install it on the new tube. Installation is the reverse of removal, taking care not to kink the capillary tube on the water side of the gauge. If you have excess tubing, gently form it into a coil no smaller than 6"~8" in diameter, and secure with tie wraps.
I'll go out in a bit and look at my '74 and verify all this.
Jeff
 
Thank you so much Jeff, I was prepared for a long fight with it, hopefully I can get this done this afternoon if it stays below a heat index of 110. The new gauge came with a new grommet in-situ, I'll just need to find the pass through, it looks like passenger side.
That made my life so much easier.
 
Just BE SURE to disconnect your battery before you start, otherwise the fireworks will amaze you and toast your new gauge really fast.
Bill
 
Baz, I just went out and looked at both the '72 and the '74. They're identical, and come out as I described. Put the seat all the way back. Look up from underneath, just to the left of the steering column. You'll probably have to move a wire bundle out of the way, but there is a connector in close proximity to the steering column that can be unplugged for easier access. You'll see the back of the gauge, with the clamp and knurled nuts I mentioned. Both the ones I looked at had the ground wire running to the outboard mount stud. Don't forget this. If you have small hands, you could probably remove the tach, and try to work through that hole. It's going to be a fiddle to route everything, but it can be done. Patience, Grasshopper! Stay hydrated!! It's warm up here today, too.
As Bill mentions, step #1 is to disconnect the battery, as always when doing anything electrical. Remove any rings, watches, etc.
Good luck!!
I'll be leaving shortly to see if I can get "capitolcitycars" Midget running, but I'll check on your progress from his place.
Jeff
 
Take your camara.
 
If you have small hands, you could probably remove the tach, and try to work through that hole. It's going to be a fiddle to route everything, but it can be done.

After doing a dance that would make a contortionist cry, and it being 101F in the garage, I will reattempt later tonight. I do have small hands, but unfortunately only two of them, I understand why the PO didn't want to do it!
It is easier than the 'dash off' route, and I agree it can be done, just not while my skin leaks more than the gearbox.
Thanks again Jeff, good luck at CCC, I'll let you know how this goes after a nap and a gallon of gatorade.
 
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