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TR2/3/3A Repairing a tr3 heater?

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sp53

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Repairing a tr3 heater or not? I have a Moss matrix heater that I ran for a while in my tr3, but I felt it to be not as powerful as the original. Has anybody had the same experience? It is difficult to tell with the original heaters how long they will last, and my experience with them is they are very difficult to repair. I might just use the matrix heater because it is new and swapping them out is difficult, despite my idea they are weak.
Steve
 
By repair I assume your core leaks? They are repairable by a radiator shop that isn't afraid to take on the job. (Most are!) and have technicians that are excellent solderers. (Most are not) My local shop has repaired 3 for me over the years; they pressure test them to 20-25lb. (4 lb in the working system but high pressure surges at start-up, so the high pressure test is necessary) They don't look pretty, but only the installer will notice. AND the price is right!!
Frank
 
sp53 said:
Repairing a tr3 heater or not? I have a Moss matrix heater that I ran for a while in my tr3, but I felt it to be not as powerful as the original. Has anybody had the same experience? It is difficult to tell with the original heaters how long they will last, and my experience with them is they are very difficult to repair. I might just use the matrix heater because it is new and swapping them out is difficult, despite my idea they are weak.
Steve
Click to expand...

Actually the old original Smiths heaters are easy to service. Check out my article in the Wiki.

https://www.britishcarforum.com/tikiwiki/tiki-index.php?page=Restoring+Smiths+Heaters
 
Nice job on that article Frank and that is just how to do it. I guess my problem is whether I should use the Clayton replacement heater core I purchased from Moss some years ago. I had it in the car once and felt it inadequate. The unit is perhaps 30% smaller than the original. I was disappointed when I purchased the core because of its size and called Moss right up and banged on my highchair and they said, “No problem, send it back.” Well I thought about that and looked at my heater core collection and kept it around because my cores are most likely 50+ years old. Besides, I was starting another restoration. Since then, I have come across a couple of original heater cores cheap that are not too bad. I put one core in an old gutted frame and took it down to my buddy’s rad shop and had it test for leaks under water with about 10 to 15 psi of air. The unit held up and I am strongly thinking about using that and keeping my 500.00 dollar Clayton around for jewelry. If anybody has tried one of those Clayton cores, I really would appreciate to know what you thought of it.
Steve
 
I knew that the Clayton cores were available, but not that expensive!!! No matter how bad, repairing your old cores should be a whole lot better solution. keep us posted.
 
My old radiator guy repaired mine with what looked like hot glue. That was several years ago.
 
Back in 2010 Frank Angelini posted a link on repairing the heater in a TR3. The link no longer works. Does anyone have an updated link or another source of information?
The heater works, but I am concerned that the brushes may be worn and potentially damage the commutator (the brushes on the windscreen wiper motor were worn all the way to the "arms" that held them).

Bentley's service manual describes servicing procedures for all electric motors except for the heater. In particular they stress inspecting and replacing worn brushes.

Any info, insights, tips would be appreciated.

Richard
 
Since I am located in the Great White North and tend to visit the mountain areas of Banff, Jasper and further on into BC, I decided to try the alternate Clayton heater as supplied by Revington TR. It was a good decision as it makes facing the changing weather patterns a little less daunting.

One trip was near the end of May 2013, Calgary to Vancouver, over up and over the Coquihalla summit. Rain, sleet and snow! No top. Tonneau only. Nice toasty warm legs, enough to beat the chill.
I will never travel that route again without full weather equipment.

See the link below:
(https://www.revingtontr.com shop/Collection_Display.asp?mscssid=2uqlextx0whw8pa82u5mvrtck92f58j8&CarType=TR3&CID=1079).

It does work with the original fan switch and supplies a steady supply of hot air. Not unlike a certain eastern mayor ...
It is quite a bit more efficient than the original. It does however take up up a bit more room. The only problem I found is the tight bend in the choke cable. It works but I will have to figure out a better route.

There are still lots of air leaks, like the pedal box, to try to overcome. Has anyone tried to fashion a lid to cover the pedal hydraulics?
I tidied up the original Smiths heater and stored it for the next owner.
Steve

SWC_1214 resize.jpg SWC_1215 zoom resize.jpg
 
Interesting I like it. I live in Washington State and we have raining cold weather, not as cold as you but damp. Anyways I wound have bought one of those over the matrix now that I know what I know. The choke deal might be fixed if you switch the choke with the knob to the right of itsomehow.
 
I also have adopted the Clayton heater (with Revington's fittings), and I, too, stayed with the original heater switch and suffered the severe bends to the choke cable. I felt a bit guilty at first, but then I thought of all those winter trips with gloves and mittens and sleeping bags wrapped around and putting a piece of cardboard in front of the radiator to bring that Smith's heater up to pale tepid.
 
My experience with a Smith's heater is like a little old lady breathing on your leg.
 
Anybody who who wishes to make a replacement TR3 heater core can PM me for an article on this.

Too big to attach here even though its only 220KB.
 
For me, the Smiths heater is fine and puts out enough. My concern was the matrix heaters are 30% smaller and not very effective. The image of the little old lady was painful at first when I pictured granny from the Beverly Hillbillies then I remembered I bought my tr3 in 1972 old is relative like history.
 
6TTR3A said:
By repair I assume your core leaks? They are repairable by a radiator shop that isn't afraid to take on the job. (Most are!) and have technicians that are excellent solderers. (Most are not) My local shop has repaired 3 for me over the years; they pressure test them to 20-25lb. (4 lb in the working system but high pressure surges at start-up, so the high pressure test is necessary) They don't look pretty, but only the installer will notice. AND the price is right!!
Frank
Click to expand...

I've tested them to about 15psi, and they start to expand vertically about an inch at that low pressure. How are they testing them at that high pressure to prevent blowing them up like and accordion?
 
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