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Wedge Removing Wedge strut cartridges

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Darrell_Walker

Darrell_Walker

Jedi Knight
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How to people get the (round) nut undone to remove the strut cartridges? Is there an available tool to replace "RTR 359 Front damper closure nut wrench"?

Also, I was able to get the nut at the top off with an impact wrench, but how to people hold the retainer to torque it back on ("RTR 360 Coil spring retainer washer holding wrench)?

Thanks,
Darrell
 
Not sure if it is the same, but for the Stag I fabricated a simple replacement for RTR359. Basically just two lengths of flat steel, perhaps 1/2" by 1/8" by 12", joined at one end by a 1/4" bolt. The business end was two socket head screws that would just fit into the holes in the "nut".

Don't recall how I put the nut back, but must've been easy or I would have remembered. Sounds like a strap wrench might be the ticket.
 
Darrell, done mine twice and I can't remember.
 
Well, mine is really good and stuck. Someone on the mailing list said to use channel locks. I've got a regular sized pair, and I have the strut clamped down to my work table, and I can't get it to budge.

I'm sure I'm putting more torque on it than the two little pins on the factory tool would handle.

It isn't left-hand threaded, is it?
 
Spray the strut retaining nut with some good penetrant and from there put it in a vice. I have a set of really big channel lock pliers or use a pipe wrench and it is normal threads, lefty loosie! You might have to use a breaker bar/pipe to get more leverage. To remove the top strut mount parts you would use a set of coil spring compressers and take the tension off the upper mount. From there use a set of vise grips with a rag arount the shaft of the strut just below the top spring mount and then losen the top nut. I use an electric impact to compress the springs and the top nut for removal and tightening. When you put the tops back together make sure you clean and lubricate the parts. The plastic bushing in the spring mount cup get graphite grease, paste not spray and the rest uses a medium to heavy grease. I like to use the Lucas Girling red rubber grease from brake rebuild kits. Now make sure you put the strut retaining ring/nut back on with some never-sieze on the threads. Install the lower rubber spring seat. Put the spring that is compressed back on and then the strut gaitor. If you have new gaitors make sure you put small holes in them either at the top or the bottom to prevent collapsing of the gaitor from a vacuum sensation. Reinstall the upper strut mount and make sure you bottom out the spring cup all the way before you tighten the strut nut or if not you will destroy the plastic bushing in the spring cup. The aluminum cone to rubber strut mount grease up really well on both side of the mount or when you make turns it will stick making the car not steer straight. From there use long zip ties to put around the top and bottom of the strut gaitor. I have change so many front struts I have it down to 2 hours to do both sides.
 
Hi Michael,

Thanks for the detailed instructions!

Where does the bump stop go in sequence? Both the bump stops and gaiters were missing on my car.

-Darrell
 
You would install the strut, tighten nut on the strut tube, install the bottom spring rubber seat, put the the compressed spring over the strut. Put the gaiter on then slide the bump stop inside the gaiter. I do not use bump stops unless your going to jump a car but thats because in the past they were either still in good shape or gone and replacements were not available. I would get the needle roller bearings for the top strut mounts from Woody @ The Wedge Shop or TSI before you reassemble. It makes steering so much better and no worries.
 
WedgeWorks said:
I do not use bump stops unless your going to jumo a car but thats because in the past they were either still in good shape or gone and replacements were not available. I would get the needle roller bearings for the top strut mounts from Woody @ The Wedge Shop or TSI before you reassemble. It makes steering so much better and no worries.
Click to expand...

Thanks again, Michael.

I did pick up the needle bearings.

Do you recommend cutting down the bump stops a bit, if I'm fitting Woody's springs? Or does the stiffer rate make up for it?
 
I did manage to get the nut holding the cartridge in off today. Perhaps the PB blaster helped, but what probably did it was putting the nut in my bench vise, and used a section of heavy copper pipe as a cheater bar on the stub axle.

I found that the inserts are Koni (matching the rear shocks). I haven't looked up how to adjust them, but as they are now, they are fairly easy to compress by hand, and nearly impossible to extend. Is that how they should work? The rear shocks are much more even between bounce and rebound.
 
The front struts are easy to adjust. All you have to do is compress them all the way down and turn them till you feel them lock and then you can adjust them. Going clock wise tightens them up (more firm) and counter clock wise losens them up (less firm). Make sure they are not leaking fluid out of the seals. The rear konis adjust by fully extending them and pulling out the rubber bushing and the plastic washer and it is the same for adjustment as the fronts. What I do is count the half or quarter turns from one extreme to the other and typically set them slightly over the mid-range setting. Koni's need to pump up before they get completely firm so on the first few turns they are soft. They are harder to extend but you cant produce 500lbs of force like the car would. Now Konis will go bad and not leak fluid.

I call this Koni-Korner on my work bench
IMG01134-20110518-1800.jpg
 
Thanks again, Michael!

WedgeWorks said:
The front struts are easy to adjust. All you have to do is compress them all the way down and turn them till you feel them lock and then you can adjust them. Going clock wise tightens them up (more firm) and counter clock wise losens them up (less firm).
Click to expand...

Should I feel any "clicks" as I turn them? The Koni web site made it sound like there should be, but I don't feel anything (but I do eventually hit a stop at each end).

WedgeWorks said:
Make sure they are not leaking fluid out of the seals.
Click to expand...

They seem to be in good shape, so I'm planning on putting them back.
 
Once you compress the strut or shock and turn them you feel the shaft lock into the shock/strut. From there they turn. These are the older Konis so there are no clicks. You should be about 5 to 6 turns in each direction and then they stop on each end of the adjustment range.
 
WedgeWorks said:
Once you compress the strut or shock and turn them you feel the shaft lock into the shock/strut. From there they turn. These are the older Konis so there are no clicks. You should be about 5 to 6 turns in each direction and then they stop on each ened of the adjustment range.
Click to expand...

Thanks, that is exactly what I can feel.

-Darrell
 
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