Removing Tie Rod End From Steering Arm

[Monark192]

Any hints or tips for this?? I am replacing the rack boots (and shocks at the same time) and trying not to get too far ahead of my mechanical ability / knowledge.

 

[Trevor Jessie]

If you are not going to reuse the tie-rod end, then pry with a prybar and wack it with a hammer. Or borrow a pickle fork from autozone type place.

 

[Monark192]

I am going to be using it again (I hope) so will look for the correct tool tomorrow. Thanks for the help. I am trying to get everything done in time for the San Diego British Car Day Oct 1st.

 

[Trevor Jessie]

You may still be able to pry and wack it loose. Just be carefule not to tear the rubber boot, and run the nut up to the top of the stud so that the hammer is hitting the nut and not the stud(messing up the threads).

 

[Biff]

Or you can just unscrew the tierod end off the arm. You do not have to remove it from the steering arm. Even with a pickel fork you will ruin the rubber boot. Use a open end wrench on the arm going from the rack to the tierod end. There is a small flat ground into it. Count how many turns it takes to unscrew it so when you screw it back in your toe-in/toe-out will be close to what is was when you started.

 

[tdskip]

Since you are in there and doing the work, it might make sense to go ahead and replace the ends. They are pretty inexpensive and Moss will get them to you in two days.

Don't be shy about asking questions!

 

[fmichaels]

i soaked the tierod lock nut with liquid penetrant for a day or so, then used heat and a little parrafin was at the lock nut on the tierod. lock nut broke free pretty easily.

 

[martx-5]

There's a trick I learned about 40 years ago for removing tapered joints such as tie rods and ball joints. You don't need any special tools.

Remove the nut. Now just whack the side of the part that encircles the tapered pin of the joint with a hefty hammer. One or two good shots and the joint will free up. This method has always worked for me. It will not damage anything.

 

[Roger]

Seconded. Using a second hammer, held against the side away from where you're hitting, can help too. You jar it loose.

 

[Monark192]

Thanks to all. I picked up a pickle fork from Sears at lunch and that, together with the proverbial bigger hammer worked great. I also ordered two new tie rod ends from Moss as suggested. Thanks again.

 

[Thor]

I just replaced the rack boots on my midget and it was a real bear. Here is how I did mine. First remove the wheel, take off the tie end set - making sure to not loose the exact position of where it has to be returned to so your wheels won't need to be re-aligned. Next slipped the Rack boot on and on the large end attach 3 very small clamps. I used clamps called hemostats that hospitals use. They lock so they allowed me to grasp them and pull (stretch) the rubber. It took a fair amount of stretching to get it over the large piece of metal but eventually the boot did slip on. The clamps have to be really thin so you don't take up valuable space.

I am sure there are other ways that may be more practical, I just don't know about them. There isn't a lot of space so expect bloody knuckles and when I got totally frustrated I had to walk away and do something else. Just keep trying and eventually it will slip on.

Good luck

 

[Monark192]

Interesting idea with the clamps. After experiencing the same frustration and pondering the problem while enjoying an adult beverage, I decided to fold the end of the boot back on itself. This made the rubber thick enough that I could slowly work it on the rack just enough and then roll the fold back down. Of course, the glory was short lived when I tried to put on the Moss provided clamp. The bolt was about 1/8 inch too short to bite. Home Depot plumbing section proved a hose clamp that went on easily.