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Pretty Please - add it to our Events forum(s) and add to the calendar! >> 
Are there any special tricks in removing the rubber bumpers? Anyone have any pics of their 1500's without them? Also, will there be holes everywhere if I take them off?? I know I will have to do something about the turn signals up front if I remove the bumper (i.e. drill the turn signal assemblies into the fenders, correct?)..
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Removing the Ugly Rubber Bumpers
- Thread starter BASS
- Start date
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RickB
Yoda
Offline
heheheh...
Yes..., why yes..., I believe I do...
You can get started here:
(sorry I don't have these in a format of any kind)
<span style="font-weight: bold">https://www.bastedo.net/midget/
</span>
Yes..., why yes..., I believe I do...
You can get started here:
(sorry I don't have these in a format of any kind)
<span style="font-weight: bold">https://www.bastedo.net/midget/
</span>
Offline
and yes I do too -
https://tinyurl.com/3b3vo7.
You can see that the old bumper brackets have been cut off and capped and the lower air holes covered as well. My guy made very funky brackets to mount the new bumpers which I don't have pics of right now but will get.
https://tinyurl.com/2kqcpq
https://tinyurl.com/2m453b
Ms Triss had the dubious advantage of having been lightly rear ended before I got her, thus, unlike Rick it was easier for me simply to get a new rear valance to recreate the "humps" under the taillights. He did have to make a bracket for the bumper.
Rick put his signal lights in the existing fender holes. I had mine filled in and will be having him put in bugeye signals instead - a look I like better.
Having done all that, get pre-rubber bumper front springs (lower) and de-arch the rear springs an inch to get the proper ride height.
Bottom line is it's easy, not too costly and looks a hundred times better - go for it
PS - Not sure what the NJ laws are but if I were still in Florida where the car dosn't need to be certified in the same way I might have left the bumpers off all together.
https://tinyurl.com/3b3vo7.
You can see that the old bumper brackets have been cut off and capped and the lower air holes covered as well. My guy made very funky brackets to mount the new bumpers which I don't have pics of right now but will get.
https://tinyurl.com/2kqcpq
https://tinyurl.com/2m453b
Ms Triss had the dubious advantage of having been lightly rear ended before I got her, thus, unlike Rick it was easier for me simply to get a new rear valance to recreate the "humps" under the taillights. He did have to make a bracket for the bumper.
Rick put his signal lights in the existing fender holes. I had mine filled in and will be having him put in bugeye signals instead - a look I like better.
Having done all that, get pre-rubber bumper front springs (lower) and de-arch the rear springs an inch to get the proper ride height.
Bottom line is it's easy, not too costly and looks a hundred times better - go for it
PS - Not sure what the NJ laws are but if I were still in Florida where the car dosn't need to be certified in the same way I might have left the bumpers off all together.
aeronca65t
Great Pumpkin
Offline
Here's ~My Version~ of this modification.
tosoutherncars
Jedi Knight
Offline
We had a thread on this a little while ago...
https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcforum/ubbthreads.php/topics/427856/Re_rear_panel_replacement
Looks like the Moss rear panel, and the two rear corner 'patch' panels would convert the rear.
In the front, pre-75 (74) fenders are a bolt-on. But they are expensive new ($700+ each?) and usually rusty if buying used... make sure you get pictures from *inside*. Expect to pay about $300 for a pair in usable condition.
And yes, as JP mentioned... the RBs had taller springs, to meet US DMV requirements, and compensate for the extra weight. Earlier springs, and/or front spacers for the spring pan, to lower the car, will restore ride height.
https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcforum/ubbthreads.php/topics/427856/Re_rear_panel_replacement
Looks like the Moss rear panel, and the two rear corner 'patch' panels would convert the rear.
In the front, pre-75 (74) fenders are a bolt-on. But they are expensive new ($700+ each?) and usually rusty if buying used... make sure you get pictures from *inside*. Expect to pay about $300 for a pair in usable condition.
And yes, as JP mentioned... the RBs had taller springs, to meet US DMV requirements, and compensate for the extra weight. Earlier springs, and/or front spacers for the spring pan, to lower the car, will restore ride height.
aeronca65t
Great Pumpkin
Offline
And there's also spacers on the front mount for the rear leaf springs on RB cars. They are plates that are about 5/8" thick. If you remove them and add 1" spacers *between* the axle and the leaf spring, you will end up with a more reasonable ride height in the rear.
RickB
Yoda
Offline
I feel like the job I did has a couple of great advantages for the car I wanted to end up driving.
1. Very inexpensive.
The most expensive part I bought was when I splurged and bought the new grill surround from those Bright guys in England.
2. Very easy.
Unbolting and removing old stuff & bolting new stuff on.
Painting was achieved with a can of brown Rustoleum.
Mine is a driver, not a trailer queen. :wink:
Originality isn't very important on this car (I bought it with the Nissan drive train already installed). On this car my enjoyability is the most important thing.
I just want the car to look a certain way, so that's what I have aimed for.
I hope to replace the hood, trunk and front fenders eventually using mid 60s donors. Hood & trunk because they are both damaged, fenders just bcause they have the "right" location for the turn signals.
1. Very inexpensive.
The most expensive part I bought was when I splurged and bought the new grill surround from those Bright guys in England.
2. Very easy.
Unbolting and removing old stuff & bolting new stuff on.
Painting was achieved with a can of brown Rustoleum.
Mine is a driver, not a trailer queen. :wink:
Originality isn't very important on this car (I bought it with the Nissan drive train already installed). On this car my enjoyability is the most important thing.
I just want the car to look a certain way, so that's what I have aimed for.
I hope to replace the hood, trunk and front fenders eventually using mid 60s donors. Hood & trunk because they are both damaged, fenders just bcause they have the "right" location for the turn signals.