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TR4/4A Removing the Gas Tank TR4
- Thread starter KVH
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Alan_Myers
Luke Skywalker
Offline
Hi,
The drain plug is opposite side from the outlet hose, same location on the tank, just a mirror image location. But, you'll probably find it's very securely rust/welded to the tank if it's never been removed before now. Trying to remove it would very likely break the solder that holds the bung into the bottom of the tank.
So I'd still think draining from with the outlet hose would be as easy or easier and the idea to remove as much gas as possible with a pump or siphon is a very good one.
Be careful while disconnecting any of the threaded fittings from the tank (drain plug, breather pipe, outlet). All those mountings are soldered in place and the solder is easily cracked.
While removing the fuel level sensor/float, one possible upgrade is to add the "anti-rattle" that was on later cars, if yours is earlier and doesn't have it. It's not much more than a rubber band that goes around the float of the sensor. But, it does the trick and stops the float from rattling (much) against the side of the tank in extreme situations. Several of the TR vendors show the part in their catalogs.
Are you planning to clean and seal the tank, while it's out?
Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif.
'62 TR4 CT17602L
The drain plug is opposite side from the outlet hose, same location on the tank, just a mirror image location. But, you'll probably find it's very securely rust/welded to the tank if it's never been removed before now. Trying to remove it would very likely break the solder that holds the bung into the bottom of the tank.
So I'd still think draining from with the outlet hose would be as easy or easier and the idea to remove as much gas as possible with a pump or siphon is a very good one.
Be careful while disconnecting any of the threaded fittings from the tank (drain plug, breather pipe, outlet). All those mountings are soldered in place and the solder is easily cracked.
While removing the fuel level sensor/float, one possible upgrade is to add the "anti-rattle" that was on later cars, if yours is earlier and doesn't have it. It's not much more than a rubber band that goes around the float of the sensor. But, it does the trick and stops the float from rattling (much) against the side of the tank in extreme situations. Several of the TR vendors show the part in their catalogs.
Are you planning to clean and seal the tank, while it's out?
Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif.
'62 TR4 CT17602L
Geo Hahn
Yoda
Offline
[ QUOTE ]
I've got about 4 gallons in the tank and want to replace the sensor gasket and filler neck hose.
[/ QUOTE ]
Is it necessary to pull the tank if these 2 things are all you are doing? I've replaced both on the TR3 with the tank in situ but then it is a slightly different body.
On the TR3 the sensor 'lid' sits pretty far forward and was easily accessible. Unless absolutely necessary (e.g. de-rusting and sealing the inside) I would be reluctant to disturb the lower fittings, as noted they are vulnerable to damage.
I've got about 4 gallons in the tank and want to replace the sensor gasket and filler neck hose.
[/ QUOTE ]
Is it necessary to pull the tank if these 2 things are all you are doing? I've replaced both on the TR3 with the tank in situ but then it is a slightly different body.
On the TR3 the sensor 'lid' sits pretty far forward and was easily accessible. Unless absolutely necessary (e.g. de-rusting and sealing the inside) I would be reluctant to disturb the lower fittings, as noted they are vulnerable to damage.
Andy Blackley
Jedi Trainee
Offline
I have also done this job on my TR250 without pulling the tank. I removed the top four bolts completely and backed out the two bottom ones, but did not remove them. Loosen the clamps on the filler hose and pull the filler cap straight off. Remove the filler hose. I did not replace the filler hose, but I did replace the grommet under the cap.
The tank can now be tilted forward just enough so that the sending unit is accessible. Clean the area around the sending unit before you remove it. After you have it out carefully remove the old gasket to avoid letting bits of it fall into the tank. I used Permatex No.2 to seal the new paper gasket.
Now I would never do this, but some (fool)hardy souls would run the car until its nearly empty and skip draining the rest of the gas, as long as the battery is disconnected and there are no open flames. I only mention this to point out that this is the lazy man's approach and is potentially dangerous. I would never do such a thing. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
Add a gallon or two and check the rubber connector on the fuel supply line for leaks before refilling the tank.
The tank can now be tilted forward just enough so that the sending unit is accessible. Clean the area around the sending unit before you remove it. After you have it out carefully remove the old gasket to avoid letting bits of it fall into the tank. I used Permatex No.2 to seal the new paper gasket.
Now I would never do this, but some (fool)hardy souls would run the car until its nearly empty and skip draining the rest of the gas, as long as the battery is disconnected and there are no open flames. I only mention this to point out that this is the lazy man's approach and is potentially dangerous. I would never do such a thing. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
Add a gallon or two and check the rubber connector on the fuel supply line for leaks before refilling the tank.
Geo Hahn
Yoda
Offline
Good to know that it can be done w/o pulling the tank.
FWIW, I didn't bother to drain the tank (on the TR3)... I always have the battery cable off for this sort of thing but didn't really see it as any more dangerous than carb or fuel pump work (probably less as the latter almost always results in a fuel spill). I guessing from your 'wink' that you thought that too.
I made the sender gasket from black gasket material and coated with Hylomar.
FWIW, I didn't bother to drain the tank (on the TR3)... I always have the battery cable off for this sort of thing but didn't really see it as any more dangerous than carb or fuel pump work (probably less as the latter almost always results in a fuel spill). I guessing from your 'wink' that you thought that too.
I made the sender gasket from black gasket material and coated with Hylomar.
Andy Blackley
Jedi Trainee
Offline
Re: danger. My thoughts exactly George. I actually did run it until almost empty, but before I got into draining or syphoning I figured what-the-hey. Less dangerous than filling the lawn mower.